Firemack

MH612 Project Truck and Rogers Low Boy update: Well installed the Pony Motor on the low boy trailer tonight. Fired it up and raised and lowered the low boy, so I could position it to the right height and connect it to the MH, and then raised the cylinder to park it when hauling the trailer. Carl (aka fxfymn) helped out with specing out the proper pump and great hydraulic parts supplier- Bailey Hydraulics, They were great. Ordered the parts on Thursday had them on Monday morning, then bought the 7 gallons of hydrauilic oil and a few hydraulic lines and fittings at Tractor Supply, the reservoir and filters came from Northern Tool. (Thanks for the recommendations Carl!) Once I hooked up to the low boy- then I attached my air lines and since the trailer has not moved in several years, of course it won't budge. Next I will be checking all of the air lines and greasing the brake mechanisms, to make sure they are all loose and then will take a hammer to tap on the drums to try and get the rust to break loose the drums. Progress- slowly making progress! Hopefully will have it ready for Macungie, but the backup plan is for Lititz! Firemack

Nice truck how much did it sell for?

Mike That was common problem on the small block Mack Thremodyne engine. I emailed you with the contact info for Nationbal Gear and Piston that remanufactured our ENF 464 head in 2002 and is still working fine. Firemack

Farmer 52, Since the MH is Fiberglass (maxiglas), I always look at ground first and see if it is indeed working. To test you need to connect the test light on the hot side of the battery and then check to see if the test light works when you try the ground on each one of the lights. My guess is the headlights are not grounded and is using the other lights to find a ground, and causing the issues. Maybe one of the rest of the team here can explain the Pyrometer issue, I would test like a temp gauge, Make sure you have a good ground, then ground it out and it should make the gauge go to maximum temp. If not then then you should check the wiring to the gauge and the gauge itself. If it does max the gauge when grounded then you need to change the Pyrometer thermocouple. I have 2 MH Pyrometer gauges if you need one. Firemack

Roscoe, Here is the tuneup spec sheet, once you get the parts it has all of your tune up info. Firemack

Thanks GG2, That will be great if they run that route. Firemack

My brother bought a rear axle with wheels that is in Buffalo, NY and needs it in Chester Connecticut It weighs around 400 pounds and has wheels so can be rolled on. Anyone travelling that route, let me know, no rush Thanks Firemack

Hi Carl, I am going, and the show organizers requested our B75 Mack and a 1947 Ahren Fox so they will be shown in the display area. You should get there first thing on Sunday, because all of the best deals get sold off early. I will be there on Sunday so we can meet up at the Mack, Can you bring the a small piece of the chrome railing and purchase info on the chrome rail? I can also go over the pony motor design etc. Thanks, Firemack

Rob, Good one, I was laughing at that Point A to Point B Peterbuilt breakdown path. Firemack

Very Nice, Hope I can get my MH looking that good someday! Firemack

Binger, There are a lot of combinations that determine the weight of your B61. Is it a single axle tractor or tandem? Is it a straight chassis or does it have any additional items like a stake body bed, headache rack, does it have a single tank or dual tanks etc? Once you provide the basic info there are plenty of B61 owners on BMT that can provide a good guessestimate on the weight. Firemack

Doug Are you and Daryl going to start your own museum? The MH E9 V8 and now EE in the last couple weeks. Nice, hope to see them all at Maucungie. Firemack

Tniss, Hook it up to a hydrant and use a pony line to connect the hydrant to one 2-1/2" discharge (or 2 if you have 2 pony lines), this will then force the water to flow in reverse to push the clapper valves the other direction, then take a brass hammer and tap on the transfer valve where the clappers are and see if you can break them loose. Before you hook it to the hydrant check the shaft on the transfer valve operator. Tap the shaft on either end and work the lever at the same time. If it has a pump drain located close to the transfer valve disconnect the drain valve and see if you can soak the transfer valve on the inside with PB Blaster. Worst case you may have to take the transfer valve out and then see what caused it to freeze. I don't have a Waterous pump book, but you might also check and see if they have any recommendations. Firemack

Stev My MH 612 has 1.7M miles and has no cracks on the fiberglass cab, It does have some wear and tear around the edges of the doors and step, but nothing more than 1". I have a 66 vette and has way more cracks than the MH. Firemack

Rob, Sorry to hear about mouser II, maybe he had cleaned up all the mice around the shop and had to expand his territory, and was used to trucks moving around the shop, not cars at highway speed. It always makes me wonder why they run on the road when they have so many other places to go in place like you live, and how the city cats, which don't have any place to roam live on for years with cars and trucks moving around them all day long. I did have one cat that learned to look both ways before crossing, but he was the only one of about 5 that had died on the road- same way as mouser II- chasing something and got caught in the road at the wrong time. Firemack

Art There were 2 filters for the 707, one was a sock type the other was a metal cartridge type, which was Napa 1237, which is no longer available, however I found that Napa 1503 is a close match and fits, so have been using that for the last 3 oil changes. I do have 1 sock type which I can sell if you need it. Firemack

Other Dog, That should be worth fighting- he has to stop all of you or none of you. If they are going for points and $$$ I think you should fight that- did he write it for 46 or 5 mph over and no points? If he wrote it for 46 and points I would be fighting that one. Selective Justice- that's BS. Firemack

Waxman, Welcome to BMT. There are quite a few friends from down under on the BMT already, so they should be able to to help you with local suppliers for parts etc. The first thing is to identify your truck, so can check on the cab doors, right side seat support and on the right side frame above the right front spring hanger for the trucks serial number. You most likely have a E model or L model Mack, with a Hale pump. The E series used 2 types of engines, Type 19-45 used Continental engines- types 50-80 used Mack engines. The serial number is typically starts with the model number (for example 19) and S and the serial number so the first model 19 would be 19S1001. On the L model it was similar with model number (85 for example) LS and serial number so for the first model 85, would be 85LS1001. Once you havwe that info you can request the build sheet info and orginal owenr from the mack Museum here in Pennsylvania (inlcude a donation) They will then be able to provide all of the original information about your truck. Also take pictures and post them here, and we should be able to help you identify it. Good Luck Firemack

I decided the first thing to get fixed was to add real mudflaps to the MH 612- time to get rid of the wired on 2X2 board and nailed on old mudflaps. I never liked the stock-cheap square iron mud flap hangers. Since this is a single axle tractor there isn't really any room on the frame after the spring hangers to add the typical spring loaded mudflap hangers, so I looked at the quarter fenders and used that mounting idea. Bought a Mack stub mount, and bought a SS tube for the quarter fenders, then welded a 2" ss tab to the bottom of the tube and had a 3" ss tab made for the front to sandwich the mudflap between the ss tab on the tube and the 3" tab. I then added the reflective tape and anti sail hangers. The only thing left is- should I add SS weights at the bottom? It looks good and matched the quarter fender mount nicely, and looks clean. I also added the ss lug nut covers makes it looks a little brighter. Still working on adding the hub cap to the rear hubs- got to adjust the axle nuts and point them in the right direction. These were on the truck when it was hauling horses, and should dress up the Dayton wheels. I need to get the trailer set up next and test it out with the B75 on the lowboy.

Bill You might be able to use 2 GM 350 EFI carbs connected, as that would fuel for 700 cubic inches and be very close to the 707 CI. Never seen that done but might be a way to get a fairly accurate fuel delivery to the 707. I know the 464 CI engine in the B75F gets 1.0 MPG around town and up to 5.5mpg downhill highway. Have you run the 707 yet? Firemack