Mark from OZ

Gordon if the bell housing don't have the top holes it will still work but the lever will pull fowards.

you will just have to play around with it. As for an air clutch you got to get it right or you will punish the clutch brake.

Seems like you have done a lot of work already so why not find a proper nodal mount bell housing and keep

the clutch arrangement simple. Just my thoughts Mark

Any time that you flip the through out brg 180, you also flip the grease fitting. The best time to address this, is when the clutch is still on the bench. You can try to rig some kind of flex hose, or a better choice is just to drill and tap the opposite side for a grease fitting. I've done it both ways, on the bench is much easier.

You just have to put a 90 degree fitting on top and buy a grease gun hose. they come in many lengths

an tuck it behind the clutch shaft. and run it down to the usual place on the inspection plate.

Ever tried to do that with it still all bolted together? Not a fun Job.

Gordon. Assemble clutch shaft in top hole with fork as if you going to mate it with the engine and put lever on

work it back and fowards you will get the picture of how it will work.

Things going well. Replaced front axle with the bigger 538 and put a 32" sleeper with the fancy bull dog trim.

Firday the 13 " never believed in them till then" then some turd runs into it. Uninsured. The ins company wanted to write it off

i sez no it aint going to happen. so i had to get another front axle fuel tank air cleaner ect. The aircleaner was hard agains

the door . Snapped the main leaf at the front eye and bent the rear spring hanger. Old mack did not want to die as i drove it home

Ok Gordon A road ranger bell housing should have 2 holes for the clutch shaft

1 bottom hole forks facing up operating lever pull back ward you have a push clutch

2 Top hole forks facing down turn throw out bearing 180 pull operating lever back you have a pull clutch

3 The pedal through floor you only have a certain amount of travel.

4 The pedal box on the chasis you should see 2 holes on the operating lever.Use the back one

5 You wil have to play around with the clutch shaft lever to make it short enough to give maximum pull

as you are governed by the set travel length of the pedal.

6 You have to work out the lengths of the operating levers. Shortest gives maximum travel for set distance.

You should have a operating rod about 12" to 15" long. I had to put a curve in mine to clear the bottom of the pedal box.

it never flexed or bent. I use a bar of bright mild steel 12mm dia threaded at both ends for the clevise.

SEE clear as MUD Mark

Gordon It's hard to explain You have to cut away the bracket that holds the pedal assembly on the chassis

To get the operating rod down on more of a angle. A R/R bell housing usualy has two sets of holes

for the shaft. You have to turn the fork upside down as the clutch rod can only work in one direction.

wheni figured it out it was not that hard of a job. worked well for a long time Mark

i just put a 9 speed eaton and a 350 mack in my b61 ,it has a twin disc pull clutch so arms move in opposite directions now , i know somebody has figured out this before .any help would be appreciated thanks

[/quote

ggreen I did it to the flintstone, Pedal through floor... single plate push clutch.... to twin plate pull clutch.

was easy and had a unbelievable ligh pedal using the same pedal and chasis arrangement.

But it just occured to me that you probably have a left hand drive vehicle, as mine was RHD

I have never seen a LHD setup. I imagine it would be mutch the same, juat on the other side.

I cut the front gusset where the rod comes through and made the rod curved.

Then for the rod out of the bell housing i cut an old BPW slack adjuster that are longer than the normal ones

tacked it the splined dog on the shaft, adjusted the travel ect. Not a hard job. Lay under it and figure it out. Easy Mark

When phaseing in the air compressor to the engine, is their a geared tooth that both comp. & engine have to line-up in-order to be phased in ? Or does the comp. piston have to be at TDC or something same as timing an car engine ? The books I have do not go into detail enough for me to know. Any help is appreciated.

Thank You!

mike

Mike. You just slip it on it don't have to be timed. They call it a " celeron" coupling. Oh and don't

forget the the little oil tube. Easy to forget if you are in a hurry. The older you get the heavier they get. Mark.

Yep Monty it was a good idea at the time. Only filled it up the once...... spilled half on the floor

Left it alone after that

Hey Mark Have you painted the inside? is the color the light green or the dark green? just after the inside paint code, thats all, have some bits that i want to paint.

very nice paint job, may be the yanks can get some inspiration from our paint schemes, havent spotted any that look like our rigs, heheheh

-Monty

Monty No i never painted the cab inside it was always in good nic. The closest colour i could find was

The colour they painted the 8V 71's it was close .

Thats one nice R00 Mr Oz, like the green.

Monty. That green, The top 2 pics must be the sun or the photo it came off it don't look quite right.

The colour is supposed to be 62 or 64 B model green I got the colour number out of a realy old

Dulux paint code book. Checked it on a few old Macks and it's pretty close. Mark

had to do a bulldog

3

another

Ok It all started when i swapped the Quad box ( glad to get rid of the thing) for a fibreglass bonnet. Got me thinking !

Found a aircleaner... fuel tank.. and another A radiator ect. Years before i swapped the 34 lightweight rear end

for a set of 44's. Replaced the Quad box with a RTO 915 roadranger. Truck actually went 20% better .

Started work Bought a 320 and a RTO 12515 road ranger and 5 weeks later, new truck, changed the diff ratio too.

After 9 or ten years if hard work. A new truck.... Me happy but still not quite finished.......

welcome to down under now ill swap you, i am sick of liiving down here with all the red tape, legal system etc etc. how do i get over there?

Grant

Grant. Now why did you remind me of all that "crap .. red tape ect" i was having a nice day.. Mark.

Rob stay tuned as this topic is realy about the Flintstone..... well kinda sorta i still have it to this day

one more of the econodyne in Brisbane.I made them piggyback the other down to Sydney thinking

it might run it in a bit. It didn't do it any good as one of the BIG problems was excess oil consumption.

They would always say that was acceptable. I'll post the consumption figures up one day.

Any way i was lucky enough to be in Brisbane to see the econodyne on the assembly line.

Very nice job on the rear fenders. I know it's a lot of work because I've been there. Still a good looking unit.

Does it still look the same or a bit for wear?

Rob

Rob i have always been a bit inventive and as we had to wait 13 months for Mack to build the thing

as they had to build a fleet of garbage trucks, all the same spec's, they put a lot of orders back.

I wanted to do something different, so with a couple of friends we designed the guards

they came out pretty good. I never got round to make another set as it was a lot of work.

I only had the Econodyne for 26 months.It had a lot of waranty problems that Mack didn't

want to do properly. It was a 1985 model and it was in the wrecking yard 4 years ago.

I think it had only 3 owners. Mark

last one

I had a go at making some drive guards.

a lot of work .

Ok I lied bought a fancy one.

350 9 speed 38's spec'd all wrong for the job

did 535.000 K's in 26 months worked it round the clock

Man if your truck gets that dirty in 12 hours I bet you go through a pile of air filters in a year. Carefull not to breath that crap yourself. It isn't so easy to change lungs. Good luck and God speed.

Matt. That was a rare occurance, it rained for 2 weeks and it was nite shift. and the bloody truckwash filter system blocked up,

when the sun came up the water in the truck wash was the colour of chocolate milk. You could not notice it in the dark.

that is why i decided to use the old Mack on the job as I would not buy a new truck to treat it like that.

Realy, it is quite the opposite no dust, water sprays everywhere. As for the aircleaners replace them every 6 months

regardless. Mark

,

I range far and wide

the other side of the road is not to hard to get used to, the gear changeing is just the same, i all so have an Australian car tucked away in Chicago and its fun to drive that over there, the hardest part is when you try overtake! best thing is to play follow the leader! and hope to hell he stays on the correct side of the road.

Grant

I got the left hand drive sorted. Had this little darling for over 30 years. Will have to practice the other side if the road though.

After 47 years living in the US, And runing my own dump trucks in New Jersey for the last 13 years.I made the big move to live in Australia. Things are going pretty good so far. They made me take my driving test to get my HR licence (class What a trip, it was a mitsubishi with 13 speed road ranger. Now i been around trucks for a while,But this is gone a little getting used to driving on the other side of the road and shifting with your left hand, kinda like starting all over again, A whole new life in a whole new world.

Welcome to down under. Like Rod said, don't tell anyone. It's pretty cool living down at the bottom of the world.

Not many know we are here. It only snows on a hill down south now and then. Beautifull one day perfect the next

what can i say Regards Mark