Maxville Truck

I have 12 different trucks with allisons", all former garbage trucks, I have also reconditioned and sold approximately 25 trucks to customers over the past several years all autos. I pound the hell out of them and know them like the back of my hand, I would agree that the 740 is a better choice as far as reliability, I have a mix of both, I like the 4560's because of the wide gear coverage. The auxillary box would be the way to go to get the over drive. The only problem is the extra weight. I would suggest an ATR box, basically a 13 speed back box with an input shaft put on it, takes up about 27" of drive shaft space, the over drive operates just like a 13 speed flipper, but with the addition of a 3.5 to one low speed for crawling out of a tough spot... the computer part of the 4560 swap would not be that bad, they are not that hard to figure out, most of the info would be available online... The problem will be interfacing with your engine to get it to communicate with the tranny to shift up and down appropriately, If your truck is mechanical Allison makes a cable potentiometer that you can hook up to the throttle linkage, Allison will virtually give no help when it comes to the programming, because they will want engineering approval from mack for driveshaft speeds hp and torque curves etc, etc.. Most of my "former garbage trucks" are set up as 5 speeds, I wanted to have my computers reflashed to make them 6 speeds, yeah right, its like I asked to build a bomb toting truck for the Taliban using all Allison parts....

which l10? I need an L10 with a Repto drive.

Its technically a 9 speed..... When you put it in drive it engages "4th", press the accellerator, it picks up speed, then locks the torque convertor, continues to accelerate, then defuels, makes the shift like an autoshift, to next gear, acellerates, shifts and so on....... shifts as fast as humanly possible no grinding....

I have a very unique truck!!! a 1996 Mack MR (former Garbage truck) with a mechanical e-7, and an eaton ceemat automatic manual transmission. I shortened the wheelbase, installed a fifth wheel, retrofitted the garbage truck hydraulics, so i can operate an end dump, or a 2 line hydraulic system. I am using it to haul silage right now pulling a Northern trailer, live chain floor with hydraulic tailgate. Ill get some pics posted soon (ITS KINDA UGLY). It's a joy to drive, with the best of both worlds automatic shifting but durability of manual transmission. Just wondering if anyone has ever had experience with these trannies?

Hey I've got a cam (no lifters) new never used let me check see if it is for that year....i'll let you know 715-279-5550 CHris

yeah thanks i was letting both guys know what i had I am fully aware that the 2050 is a 40 overdrive I have had 4 in my fleet in addition to 3 2060's and 2 2070's which also have 40 over high gears. just try'n to offer a good deal to the guys here, i gotta lot of mack stuff.. in my few years as a mack owner.... most of my 2050, 2060, and 2070's were in front of 6.34's although i've got a few 5.55 and 1 5.05.

Hey guys I've got an air shift 6 speed and a t2050 overdrive tranny the air shift was out of a burned MR so no shift knob however then can be had from PAI.. I dont know why you would avoid a tranny from a cabover from what I can tell all a guy needs to do is change the mounting brackets over and change the stick....... the 2050 is a 40% over if that what your looking for...?

Got a friend with a $%it truck, with a big cam and 9 speed. wants to put a multi speed reverse tranny into it, his existing reverse low is to slow and reverse high is to fast to take off... needs a little more reverse speed for spreading operations. my question is will a mack 2 stick have the proper clearance if we bolt one to the bAck of his cummins? next question I have an air shifted 2 stick but no air knob where can i get one or does mack have them? thanks!! :SMOKIE-LFT:

open your hood and stand next to your pump now have an assitant floor the pedal now wath w=the throttle lever on the pump and see if it hits a stop screw.... if not see if you can move the lever any further.... also check to see if the throttle lever which is attatched to the pump is in dis repair.... if the throttle lever hits the high idle stop the adjust it inward if not repair or adjust the throttle linkage to get it their if it is adjusted fully the you may have to take you pump to a pump shop as the govenor springs are internal an may need to be rebuilt.... my guess is though your linkage is screwed up..

that particular truck also had the american bosch, we switched the pump out to the robert bosch (which is in the picture) only because the american bosch was limping on one cylinder and i was too cheap to fix it but had the robert bosch lying in the shop.... I got to know the american bosch on a customers truck after my switheroo... I kinda prefer the american bosch because I think its a "snappier" pump and if you have an engine brake it is controlled in the pump which makes jake shifting pretty nice (another NO No). same theory with the american bosch pump though take top cover off and slide adjuster towards front of engine.. and no we did not change the turbo. you have to watch your pyro if you have one.

depending which pump he has that will only give you smoke on initial accelation with the feeling of quicker boost, however you will gain no top end power. I agree the bottum end of the motors are reliable up to 350hp, have i turned m e-6's up.... you bet!! I've changed the grind on the torque plate in the bosch p7100 pumps and they lit up like a wild cat. however i've got a melted piston sitting on my shop bench and a couple of locked up engines..... tuner beware..... melted piston was bad injector and stupid operator. locked up motors were also dumb operators.. to many rrrrr's down a hill.... we had an r model with a 300 e-6 we turned up pulled grain hopper with some pretty big loads I would say were pushing 400hp with it never seen the pyro exceed 1000, even got a coplement once from a pete owner wondering what we had under the hood "he said he couldn't keep up with us with his 400 cat...." but I still wouldn't recomend it..... Don't leave you much advice with this post..... If it was an e-7 I would say go crazy but that little e-6 is happy right their. right on top is a cover underneath is a plate with 2 screws loosen the screws slide the plate forward towards the front of the motor tighten the screws put your cover back on. Good luck (I have a few used pistons if you need them)...... :SMOKIE-LFT:

I don't know where you live but i've got a few 6.34 ratios lying around if you need some parts.....

your torque convertor is locked, most likely cause is the kickdown pin has been removed..... on the drivers side rear of of the transmission pan right behind the shifter input shaft is either an air cylinder (if it has an air throttle) or cable kick down connected to the transmission. this is held in by a single bolt and a metal clip. pull the bolt and clip then twist and pull the kick down mechanism out. their should be a small "pin" behind the mechanism make sure it is in there. might also be the govenor sticking (but I doubt it) if it is something to do with the govenor.near the rear of the transmission on the driverside is a 4 bolt square cover pull it off and pull out the govenor mechanism. make sure the spool inside moves freely along with the flyweights.reassemble and try it again. Good Luck!!

If you would email me some photos chris@maxvilletruck.com I may be interested

Toward the rear of the water manifold there should be a valve that looks like a water faucet with a heater hose attached to it. This must be open to allow coolant to circulate thru the heater core. There is also a cable operated valve in the other heater hose, check to make sure that valve is also open. . Actually on that particular engine /truck combo the water valve is located just behind the thermostat housing near the front of the motor on top of the water manifold...

Crankcase breather coming off front of injection pump gear access cover. This is where you willl see your blowby if you have any. An e-7 in a conventional truck will have the breather tube coming off of the valve covers.

I have several of these e-7's in MR's and have put several together for my farming customers...... pretty reliable setup, most of the ones i've sold have Auto's behind them. with a little pump "tweakig" they will pound pavement very nicely!!!! keep them clean (oil, radiator, air filter, etc.) just common sense stuff.... Not much for tips or tricks beside pump mods, or even larger injectors. Tons of experience with them ... if it at all misses immediately replace your injectors. otherwise pretty bullet proof motor. Chris

Quick question about the cooling... will the engine derate if it gets hot??? if so does it slowwly derate or just shut down? also can the motors be programmed to accelerate a little quicker to full power? I've got 2 "vulva's" with poo tanks one is an STC l-10 with ht 740 was a real pile until I played with the pump changed button, set aneroid screws up, I got lucky with the settings because I didn't get any smoke but sure gained some power, was originally a 260 i'm guessing its at least 350 now.. the other is an ism 305 and also ht740 allison.. that truck is alot "snappier" than both the etech 300 and the l-10 was... hoping to get some snap from the e=tech. as far as cooling I'm not concerned.. the cummins allison combos barely get the trannys to 180 our load cycles ussually go as follows.. 1 to 10 mile trip to field 3 minute unload time in low gear. empty return trip to pit (no load on drive train) and 2 to 5 minute get loaded timing. plenty of cooling time. besides my other trucks are all macks with t2060's and turned up e7's maybe pushing between 350 and 400, al long as we keep the radiators cleaned out we have no problems.

Looking to upgrade the HP in an em7-300 engine in a truck we are building, checked around a bit was told that all i need is different injectors and I can get an upkick in power.... Our local mack service shop said they can change programming within the specs of the engine..(Injectors , turbo) to get a little more. This truck is an MR with an allison hd4560p tranny I will be installing a 3rd drive axle and mounting a 4500 gallon Manure Tank. figure I will gross around 62,000. Would like closer to 400hp. this is the first e-tech I've had and don't have experience with it any advice would be appreciated.

I just did a cam job on a 88 400 e-9 , being a novice with this engine we managed to remove it without taking the intake and injection pump off.... had the thing reground, and reground the lifters, rocker arms and yokes... had to replace one lifter.. total bill not counting our labor was about $1200.00 gaskets and all. Awesome motor!!

OK I ask every one to add to this one!!! My single favorite tool in my shop is the air hammer!!! ( followed closely by the flame wrench) I figure out a new use for it almost daily..... (feel as if i'm writing a 5th grade essay) I think between me and everyone else here we should be able to come up with at least 101 uses for the air hammer. (don't forget the safety glassses) I will number mine as I remember them..... 1. Most common use in my shop is the "hard to get on with a wrench" hydraulic fitting. I can remove virtually any sized hydraulic fitting with an air hammer exclusively. 2. Brake drum removal. 3. Throttle lever (breakover arm) on an ambac v-8 pump on an e-9 injection pump. used that one today to get the bastard back on. 4. rattling a frozen clutch loose for adjustment. 5. removing frame bolts 6. rattling rust loose from a truck frame (before sandblasting) 7. tie rod ends (not using the pickle fork) 8. chipping frozen Manure off the side of my manure tanks (that ones a bit messy) 9. remove a snarled mess of plastic twine string from manure beaters, sharp spade bit for that one. (use it to cut them off) 10. removing bearing races from shafts 11. breaking hard nuts loose. There is my start to this blog......... I will add to it as i remember them or create new uses please do so also!! Oh by the way my weapon of choice is a Snap-On ph3050 with quick attach