Maxville Truck

OK I can't take it anymore..........I'm starting a blog!!!!!!! Please read along... :wacko: :wacko: :wacko:

Air Hammer....... Make sure when you remove the lock strap that you put the bolt back on before trying to adjust it.. then put a wrench on the adjuster (3/4) dont forget the helper in the cab to hold the clutch down, then while trying to turn the adjuster Clockwise rattle the clutch cover with the air hammer, its never failed me yet on a frozen clutch, Warning it may get dusty so wear safety glasses and possibly a dust mask. just a quick tip.. when it does finnally move turn the flat of the adjuster parrallel with the long side of the lock strap.

We pulled the cam and lifters and took them to a local rebuild shop they are reconditioning the cam and good lifters.... Thanks Russell!!

Looking to be a "cheap Bastard".......... I need a lifter and Camshaft for an 88' E-9 in a superliner the exhaust lifter on #6 wore the "mushroom" off. and did a little groove into the cam lobe... What in your guy's opinions are my options... My local mack dealership quoted me about a grand for a new cam, about 140 per lifter, and said I have to change out the puchrods at the same time, to the tune of about 26 a piece all total about 3700 plus gaskets yet. the truck hauls silage about 600 hrs per year. I don't really want to take it apart twice. should I bear down and go all new or can I mix and match a used cam (if I can find one) with a used lifter. Any advice would be appreciated!! Chris :SMOKIE-LFT: :SMOKIE-LFT:

Hey Rob.... Don't know if this will help but ambac has an awesome library of data and manuals for their pumps here is the link for that particular pump.. http://www.ambac.net/images/ape8vbb.pdf Chris

How in tarnation do I reset the password so I can program some PTO parameters with Vcads Pro? Any help would be appreciated....

Hey maybe you guys remember back a couple of years ago I bought a 96 CL from canada and put a Grain/Silage box on it for my cousin. I recently posted a video of it in operation at the home farm...... Made an AWESOME Silage truck..... I also pulled a a superliner that had a en e-9 in it at a local pull the competition had 2007 and 2006 trucks with turned up c-15 cat and turned up detroit 60 series.... They pulled first ... one guys clutch slipped the other guy didn't fair much better.... I hooked dropped the 12 speed into 3rd high slipped the clutch a little until she built boost dropped hammer and went at least 75 feet further than they did, although we were all green at pulling and I have to admit i outweighed them by at least 8000lbs it was still fun !!

Thats not a 2 speed rearend then its a splitter tranny....

Ride height and driveshaft phasing....!!!!

Did you just purchase the truck? If the one rear was low..... could the trans been low also (at one time)? I've had rears go low (and wreck themselves) but usually it didn't "sneak" the damage any further up the drive line. I suspect it is just coincidence....

I grew up on a dairy farm we had three different massey's with the v-8s, the first was 1155 just like the one in the video 540 Ci perkins , then we had a 2745 massey with a turbo kit (m & W) motor was awesome transmissions were not so good, finnally we had a 2775 640 v-8 perkins 185 on the dyno no turbo.... my favorite but still had the same bad tranny issues..

Well heres how my day went yesterday......... We have a job that we have to transfer manure to a "fraq" tank, so I have special off load booms on three trucks and off shoot elbows on the rest. I had 2 small jobs that 4 of my trucks had to go to whilst I prepped and repaired on the rest. got the rest of the off shoot elbows welded on, had a clutch go out last friday on a 95 DM E7 300. the pilot bearing hole was worn I had an e-6 flywheel sitting around, took both to CATCO had the e-6 one machined. got a new clutch mechanic put it on bolted tranny on put the whole truck together motor wouldnt turn over....... pulled it all back apart (we figured the flywheel was different) here a piece of metal (which he didn't see) was wedged between flywheel housing tan d the flywheel.) needless to say when 5 pm came along he had to punch out so he could work on his "race car" in the morning while airing up a "flat" at a bout 50 psi the tire exploded scared the living sh&* out of everyone in the shop. thank god it was the inside dual. I then left with another employee we went to my "solid manure job site. Farmer land stacked sand laden manure on a clay field for the last 1.5 years, with wheel ruts under the manure mile I have a 544 john deere payloader I load with, slimmy as hell under the manure pile. I t was a one man job but we were going to finish and move to the next job so we had 2 of us their. after the second load blew a hydraulic line on the loader....... after 1.5 hours we got that going finished what we could. loaded up..... farmers fuel tank went dry.... Fine we took off got about 2 miles up the road and my injection pump coupler somehow decided to come loose and lost time.... pull off the road and park the truck, head for home (7:30 PM) crew chief with the liquid crew calls me he was about to drive my tractor (case IH 7120) home when the steering cylinder end pulls out of the tie rod. HE cant figure it out so I drop the one guy off head for his location, calls me again and said the BLUE WHALE (1995 blue in color MR) over heated and quit. come to find out the belts whent to hell. I got their we fixed the tractor, I got one of the belts back on and limped it home.......... Besides the fact that i have a yard full of "customer trucks" to work on, WHERE THE HELL IS MY PROZACK!!!! i'M WASTING TIME WITH ALL THIS TYPING I REALIZE, BUT I GOTTA VENT SOMEWHERE. PS The wifes probabbly gonna leave me...

I'm their right now with 9 trucks that get used heavilly for a very short time hauli'n the cow "pooh" collection this spring has been the best it has been for me for a while.... however i've got some old accounts recievable from last fall that suck terribly. Work'n like a dog the wifes bout ready to leave me....... bussiness owners take huge risks with little rewards in the beginning!!

new clutch will be around $650+ plus about that much for install, radiator tank, unless you go to a salvage yard you are looking at a new radiator.... ebay has them for under $700.00 check with mack though....

If your talking about the modulator (kickdown) valve down on the driver side right above the oil pan , that part should be available from allison (inland in Milwaukee) 800-236-6667. When you step down the throttle does air come out of the tranny breather, and some times fluid? You will need to give them your part number and serial number off the tranny tag. Good luck

ha ha he he he thats funny right there.. i ldon't care what anybody says thats funny... Hey I need to do the same thing to a 4 speed spicer for a project.... it wil not be shifted on the move , I need an auxillary with at least 5 to one reduction in its lowest gear. going to turn it with a hydrostat..... PS I have a bunch of air cylinders if your interested.. call me 715-279-5550 will have to determine diameter and stroke needed to operate your browny (diameter will determine the force that the cylinder will put out)

I am almost certain it is the orings on the injectors that is leaking fuel. I debated pulling the injectors but I pulled the valve cover off and it looks like the whole rack has to come out to get down to the injectors. That is more than I care to take on right now so I am gong to send the truck back to the mechanic that replaced the head gasket. You shouldn't have to pull the rack.... Dont feel bad One of my drivers overrevved a e-6 4 valve going down ahill and busted the crank. Truck is oldest n my fleet it will get a hammer in the head....

Your right it is a low oil, high temp or lack of water shut down system, most are disabled when get most of my MR's in, the MR you'e driving is it an electronic motor?

I have the robert bosch on all my #$it trucks. But they all have the Smoke control built into the top of the pump..... If you remove that "cover" in the rear top of the pump, then remove the "rack limiter" now get a flashlight and look into the pump straight down. you may have to turn the engine over to see what is nessecary to turn up RPM's it is a funny shaped spring holder about the size of a dime with 2 dimples in it... you push the spring down and turn in the "spring holder" clockwise, may be a 1/2 turn or more. The spring pushes against this nut thingy and holds it in place. remember how many clicks because you have to turn the motor over and do it again on the other side of the Governor flyweights (inside the pump). I'm attaching an awesome picture of the inside of the governor housing as viewed from the engine side of the pump (physically impossible to do).. the "nut thingy" I'm refering to is item 1 in the picture. MAXVILLE's DISCLAIMER-------That is not the right way to turn rpm's up, the proper way is to take the cover of on the engine side of the pump and remove the springs and put the right springs in for the required RPM, also it should really be done on a test stand by a trusted Pump Shop. In my area both Lacrosse Diesel and Eau Claire Diesel are good at it.. When you turn rpm's up you also increase your HP a little too, doing my method will make your throttle more sensitive and if you do not get it precisely the same on both sides your governor may act "weird"

niceguypmp3, the puff limiter does just that, it limits the fuel until you start to build boost, in reality what it is, is an old school way of limiting full fuel (versus a computer waiting for boost), until you have more air to burn it, it works in conjuction with intake pressure through a "reverse relay". The reversing relay provides an output pressure signal to the air cylinder that decreases in direct proportion to the increase in engine manifold pressure. Therefore, the maximum fuel which can be delivered to the engine is controlled by the Puff Limiter air cylinder and not by the injection pump governor during low manifold pressure conditions. Reversing relay is mounted directly to the engine inlet manifold THat is out of the mack manual. Enough of that... What you need to do is face the pump. near the rear of the pump, on the top is a tin cover held on by 4 screws.. Remove the cover, locate the "rack limiter" usually 2 screws clamp it to the body of the pump. make note of the location, loosen the screws and slide the "rack limiter" towards the front of the engine maybe a 1/16 to an 1/8 of an inch. tighten the clamping bolts and replace the cover. give it a try if you give it too much you will see a trail of smoke even with boost.. personally I would hook the puff limiter back up, you will see the same power (if the system isn't malfunctioning) just with a bit more delay waiting for the turbo to boost. and of course less smoke.

www.mandersdiesel.com Ask for Doug, they have lots of them..... PS what are you looking for exactly? I have one with a broken main shaft I may have what you need also...?

I have installed several "auxiliarys" behind allisons for some of my customers, the auxiliarys I use are the back boxes off of eaton fuller transmissions that have been fabbed to accept an input drive shaft and are very compact. They have had the syncros removed, so you have to stop to shift them into different gears. He will build them with the syncros but behind the auto I question the ability to shift them on the fly. We use them primarily for farm operations where low speed high engine rpm is required, (manure hauling, feeding cows, etc.). several ratio options available, including 3 speed with an over under combo.

Your Going to need a lot of patience, but I think it would be possible.. Especially if you have the donor truck to remove and reinstall the complete wiring harness...

Leave it be......... I built 2 truck last summer with 3rd drive axles the first one we put the air power divide in. the second one we did not. we soon found out it was unnessecary. It's a preety big job to change over, because you have to have special tools for the big nut inside the cam (pretty major torque). unless the diff has been run without lube its better left alone!!

CHR? Which engine? WE had an older e-6 350 in a 1990 R model mack that we had turned the pump up on, under full load for an extended period of time (15 or more seconds). the truck would flutter and fall on its face.... Obviously we tried the filters, no luck checked for bad lines from the tank (ones letting air in) nothing appeared bad... One of the fuel lines had collapsed internally......... we found it after we started replacing all the fuel lines (it was a short one near the fuel pump that had a pretty severe bend in it (4th one we checked though) Other wise as I stated earlier check for interjection of air someplace (loose fuel line fitting or bad line). Good Luck