Maxville Truck

What sort of trouble? I Have no experience, however i have been considering it for some project trucks i'm working on. Try this link Stengel Bros. I believe is a dealer for this type of suspension. and should be able to help... http://www.stengelbros.com/Raydan.htm The sell a Heavy duty Trunnion Tree That replaces the factory mack trunion tree in the camel backs, that is built several times heavier.....

Sure Why Not!!! I hate to admit what I'v gotten away with.... I've put e-6 injectors in an e-7 different years and horse power settings, as a matter of fact I put an e-6 Robert bosch injection pump on an e-7 engine. It all worked, BUT.... it's not factory authorized nor probably recomended. if you mismatch injectors you may have potential future engine problems. If you do all 6 Your chances for problems (in my humble opinion) will be minimal. I've gott 2 different e-7's in mid 90's, 300's that run really rough when you would rev them with no load almost a popping/ backfireing. almost as if the pump timing was retarded.. Put the light on the pump, checked the timing, it was right where it belonged (9degrees BTDC, I advanced it to an e-6's setting of 21 BTDC, smoothd right out.... You can get away with alot, however it all "voids waranty" or is out of the EPA's allowance.

Try This......It's A word doc first time I've tried it this way. hope it works!! e_6_head.doc

I found a CL713 for my family's farm in Canada. Anyone here ever import a truck from canada to the USA? I was told by the person selling all we need is the invoice and title in hand to cross the border... We did a little deeper checking and have been advised several different ways on how to get the truck across the border. Most of them involved a customs broker, one lady even told me that we could not even drive it across the border!! PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!! It's a CL713 1994 model e-9 500 18speed, 46000 hendrickson spring suspension.

My Dmm with a 237 has the same popping sound in the air cleaner, I swear to "Todd" that its a mack trait for a "well seasoned" mack engine. We just put head gaskets in it this last fall, it seems to run strong though.

we repair them all the time... get some flat iron that is close in dimension (2" by 3/16") or so an cut the bad section out and weld the new piece in... couple bucks at a hardware store and a few minutes with the welder you got it!!

Once again my fuzzy little head is thinking about pumping sh%&, this time through 6" hose several thousand feet (1 to 3 miles or more). Current technological thought for Drag Hose systems is one pump per mile running at full tilt(john deere 8.1's turning at over 2300 rpm at a cost of about $68000. For a flow rate of around 1100 Gallons per minute. With out getting into to much technical detail about my needs, I would like to put a pump every half mile. and try to get up to 1800 GPM or more. Now we have a basis for my big questions...... According to my pump curve charts, with the flows I want, and the head I will need to produce, I will need about 185 to 225 hp @ 1700 rpm at each pump. How well will a mack e-7 or e-6 stand up to this kind of constant load for hours on end. What special cooling will I need to do if any, or will standard truck radiators work. what I need to know is approximately how much fuel at that load I will use. and what kind of life expectancy I will get out of the engines. I have access to a few e-7 250's and 300's that were in MR's with auto tranny's. An alternative engine I am considering is either an M-11 cummins or an L-10 (stc). basically I'm going to build portable pumping units that will be hooked in series every 1/2 mile. I've got to determine what my fuel consumption will be for this operation, and what will be the most fuel efficent engine to use. any help would be appreciated!! Here is picture of the current available pumps, mine will be built similiar to the shorter one only using mack or cummins engines

Pull your intake hose off of your turbo and check for scuffing on the compressor housing sounds to me like you may have a turbo starting to fail. Not to often do they intermittently lose power like that and then run fine, But I've had a few do that. do you get any smoke when it happens (black or bluish white)??

ThaddeusW, I set trucks up for farmers.... They are all used to to live pto's on their tractors, I try and source trucks for them with either crankshaft (out the front) or REPTO (Rear Engine Power Take Off), former cement mixers are the most commonly found with a (REPTO), Macks are the easiest to find, however. I just finished setting up a 1990 Peterbilt with a REPTO drive. (cummins L-10 285 hp, 7ll trans). I'll post some pictures as soon as i get my camera back home.

Welcome!! I come from a farm (dad still milk'n 550 cows) and operate a "manure hauling" bussiness and farm truck setup bussiness, Glad to meet you and I run almost all macks. Macks are the most durable trucks available!!!!

I Have a customer whom I will be putting a "silage/grain" hauling truck together for, They want a shorter turning radius in the fields but want the carrying capacity of 3 axles in the rear. What I propose to do is take a day cab ch613 with camelbacks and add a 3rd air axle driver to the rear of the tandems. I know it sounds a little loony.. however this truck will need to "float" in questionable field conditions and the box will either be 24 or 26 feet long. so it will carry a lot of weight when loaded. A normal tag axle will only drag along. Thats why we thought drive the third one. So here's my design thoughts and I'm looking for anyone here to pick it apart. 1. I will either use an air power divider on the front axle, or the automatic one. 2. I will definitely use an air power divide on the center axle (rear camelback) 3. standard rear axle in the rear (3rd axle) 4. the rear axle will be air which i will set up to dump the air so the weight fall to the camelback (front 2) for shorter turning, also when the air dumps the center power divide will kick in. ( THEY ORIGINALLY WANTED THE REAR AXLE TO LIFT BUT I FIGURED IT WOULD BE TO MUCH DRIVE LINE ANGLE.) 5. not sure how i should set the rear axle up... as far as ride height... I figured a leveling valve to begin with but, as the box gets full it will squat the camelback springs and cause the rear axle to fully inflate and take some pressure off the camel's, so now i'm thinking just set the pressure on a turn dial. I'm enclosing a picture of one other truck i set up, it is a quad axle but it gets hung up in the fields... I'm going to use the same wheel base minus the pusher. any input would be appreciated. :SMOKIE-LFT:

Try this web site http://www.mikescustomtrucks.com/tractor_truck.php It comes with instructions... around $500.00 noid93 has one on his ch and it works well!!

Is that a mechanical or electronic e-7 (I'm guessing electronic) If so You can put a blixton III chip on it and gain up to 30%, no turbo change nessecary. If it is mechanical.....slide your fuel plate forward, under the the cover on the injection pump.

Had a big cam Cummins come through the shop with a set on, they seem to be pretty much identical to the jacobs brand, From what I was told Jacobs is the original "jake Brake" Tec is the Mexican Knock off.... Pac is the Canadian Knock off.. I'm sure some on could correct me if i'm wrong...

Which 6 speed the t2060 or a 2 stick'r, I've got both and had the problem with the t2060, ended up being the slider clutch in the transmision, requires tearing down the transmission to fix but its a pretty easy job...

If the 3/4 open end doesn't work you may need to heat the nut with a torch, being very careful not to heat the lines to much.., get the nut red then it should break free... the rest of you guys might call it crazy but it does work!!

Could you possibly have a head gasket Issue??? Typically the recovery tank should take the over flow from the cooling system as it warms up.... and draw it back it in as it cools. But if you have a head gasket "issue" it could be forcing compression into the cooling system and pushing the water out... Had the issue with an old 237 ( hate to addmit it we run her that way for a few weeks, when the gauge started to climb off of 180 we'd fill her back up with water, and run her a few more hours.. finally did the head gasket when the clutch "crapped out"). I'm not saying thats what your problem is but....you might want to have it checked..

That's a Damn good point!!! Maybe mack got all the "low buck" sensors, and electronic components. I kinda like my e-6 and e-7's..... after hearing all the fun stories!!

Align the discs as close to each other as the splines will allow...

which injection pump do you have? Robert Bosch ?? or American Bosch?? yes it is fairly easy to do, and only will cost your time... however 350 is about the max "reliable" continuous duty rating an e-6 should run at.... can you get more you bet you can, should you only if you want to do a rebuild sooner than you normally would.

Check your Front Spring hangers and bushings, had a 97 ch (former postal truck, that I converted to tmr mixer truck for feeding cows) that did the same thing. that was the problem...

Just an update opn my 6x6, I put a manure tank on it instead of turning it into a power unit. (After head gaskets, and a new clutch) works great though!! I got to water a local "tuff truck" track and mud pit with it... Speed channel was at the event...

Yes you should be able to buy an air operated dump valve. I believe it is called a rapid dump air suspension valve. Here is a link to The new life catalog that shows one, scroll to the bottum for what you need. http://www.newlifeparts.com/catalog/section12.pdf good luck. :SMOKIE-LFT:

I agree whole heartedly, I use antisieze religiously on my manure equipment, pretty much never fails me for coming apart!! :D

I've got an 84 superliner (e-9 440) :SMOKIE-RT: myself that need some exhaust work.... I hope that it doesn't cost a fortune to replace all my leaks.. I agree that sounds a little steep for bolts, I cant speak for the special nature of the bolts but my experience with my e-7 and e-6 ,motors is I'm better off with the mack studs versus plain bolts. because the plain bolt always seem to work loose first... just my observation.