Maxville Truck

1st picture is us loading manure, the second picture is us stirring manure (for those of you not familiar, a 50 foot aparatus with a big boat prop) churns a lot of sh$% but takes a lot of HP!! I have a dmm 6x6. It has a 237 5 speed trans. and tc150 transfer case. Here's my dilema, I pump cow manure and never have reliable HP (tractor), most of my farmers' tractors are underpowered, They overheat because of the severe duty i put them under, and the fact that most farmers only use a fraction of their horsepower, so their radiators and air filters are plugged, I show up with my agi/pump (which will bring a 200 hp tractor to it's knee's) and after 15 minutes of agitation or loading we are stalled because of an overheated tractor. I have rented in the past from a local Allis Chalmers salvage yard, but once again i'm using junk, and i'm broke down. so a reliable tractor is my current weak link. My Idea is to take my 6x6 (about a 77, with a weaping head gasket, which I will fix) shorten the wheel base as short as possible (for manueverability) Hook a drive shaft to the PTO output of the transfer case run a driveshaft to the back of the truck into 2 90 degree gearboxes, ( with an overall gear reduction of about 2 to 1) build a hitch comparable to a tractor, run a small hydraulic pump out the front (alrady has crank shaft adapter and bracket in place) for hydraulic needs, walla a mack Tractor "Macktor". I will run the the transmission in 5th so my driveline from the truck will run at engine speed. I need about 1000 rpm at my pto shaft but turning the oposite as what comes out of the transmission, with the 2 90 degree gearboxes I can make the direction change... I know that overheating the transmission and transfer case will probably be a problem, I can run coolers on both with circulating pumps. WHat I need from someone here is a source for the PTO Adapter for the back of the MACK TC 150 transfer case. ANy help or insite would be appreciated!! :SMOKIE-LFT:

e-6 and e-7 share the same piston diameter e-6 is a dry sleeve engine e-7 is wet sleeved, has buttressed main bearing's (bolts come in from the sides in addition to bolted from the bottum, makes for a stronger bottum end, my local dealer told me an e-6 is reliable up to 350hp, and an e-7 goes well beyond that) also the e-7's stroke is 1/2 inch longer hence the additional cubic inch. also e-7 is all metric bolted. e-6 is good for 15,000hrs while an e-7 is good for 30,000hrs (don't know if thats true or not) I run both in gruelling conditions, dirty, long oil change intervals, my e-7's start down to below zero conditions without the addition of "summer air", while my e-6's typically need some around 30 degrees.

The Limmited experience I have with the american bosch is, the governor in the A B seems to be somewhat more responsive, or "more jumpy" in responce to stepping her down. also easier to make the RPM adjustment, without removing the pump. Just remove back round cover on pump and change the spring, to increase rpm's. Down side to this pump is it can run away easier. We had one on a 237 (84 MR) that would run away "rev unlimited" had to dump the clutch to pull her down. the last time it did it it was in neutral, couldn'd get her in gear, needless to say, we no longer have the truck. The flywheel exploded after about 4000 rpm, transmision fell off and truck started on fire..... believe it or not the engine held together and ran for about 5 minutes while the truck was engulfed in flames. I estimate she turned in excess of about 6000 rpm until it finnally burned a fuel line off. good testament to the bottum end!!

I've had experience with this particular applicaiton, local trucker has a 1996 CH with an e-7 400 t2130 hauling grain with a hopper. put a blixton chip (less than $500) on, easy install... definate gain of about 30% (120hp) gained about .5 on mileage and much better throttle responce pushing about 38lbs of boost now, very little if any smoke before spool up.... heres a link http://www.pdqperformance.com/pdqstore/product.phtml?p=20 :bmod1:

THe very next load the person loading didn't get the last scoop in the front and did'nt make the hill, I powered out, and had to stop about 3/4's of the way up the hill with the front end straight in the air it did not come back down until i get her flat again, pretty much had to clean my shorts out at the bottum of the pit. My intention is to add about 4 feet of frame and only move the box back about 18" that should put enough weight on the front end to keep her down....

I took these videos last fall finnally got them put together to post on break. I still didn't get a chance to stretch the frame out to get more weight on the front, that's on my agenda......Can anyone tell me when mack started using the upfront charge air cooler? This truck is a 1984 with a 2 valve 300 and a charge air cooler in the front. The tractor in the beginning of the video if you watch closely spun out just a t the peak of the hill. And could not hold it, he did this several times throughout the days that we hauled. I was also hauling with an MR with a different style spreader box, and my 2 trucks we could load overflowing everyload!! What we are hauling out is wet sand ladden manure. Enjoy the link... http://my.break.com/media/view.aspx?ContentID=268127

Ive got several of these low speed engines.. everyone has a T2060 transmission. Patience is the only alternative to shifting these. My conditions were such that once we got a gear and went off road... we have to stay in that gear. I did turn my Rpm's up on all the motors, which helps in some situations, We have live hydraulics driven off the crankshafts.... I can stall a hydraulic cylinder out which helps pull down the rpm's but i'm the only one who knows that trick!!! (gonna keep it that way too!) a set of dynatards or jakes would help though!!

Is it a low RPM motor? if so turn your rpms up it helps.... for some situations, or an engine brake would assist also...

I really love the 4 valve engines, got both e-6 and e-7s all vocational, low speed engines, hauling cow crap of course.... got lots of competion running with cabover cornfield cadilacs (internationals) and big block cummins, I'm constantly out lugg'n them. I'm partial to the MR's though.....

Sounds like a fun project to me, I've got a couple of t2050 transmissions out of MR's lying around (40% overdrive). Good luck!!

Raybing, I've got several of those low rpm motors in both MR's and one DM every truck was low rpm some were em6's and some were em7's all robert bosch pumps, (I've put e6 pumps on e-7s and vice versa..) I could never get the plug off the back side of the pump, while on the truck, like b61mack said, but he is totally correct... if you pull the aneroid cover off the top and pull the torque plate off you can get to it from the top of the pump. otherwise pull the pump off and have it done in a diesel shop. pay attention to the location of the torque plate.... it is adjust able, sliding it towards the the front of the motor will increase overall HP, but also so will raising the RPM, I've gone as far as changing the slope on the torque plate with good results... I could ramble on all night... here is a link to a web site that explains it on a a dodge truck (virtually the same pump) http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forums/show...5523#post165523 If this doesn't help I've got a couple of these pumps in my shop I could take pictures of them for you.

I Run several MR Macks in off road conditions, (Liquid Manure Hauler), they all have the T2060 trans, But I have set up a few of the MR's with automatics for customers (Silage Trucks), In my opinion off road your productivity will increase and you will not be disappointed but It will cost you to swap. You will be hard pressed to exceed 60 MPH unless you have a rear end ratio below 4.17. I have installed a few (not changeovers, but just replacements. i don't think a change over would be that difficult. If interested contact me I would be willing to give you a quote....