dr dodge

many air systems have 2 pressure switches that turn on the brake lights that "power on" then goes to the turn signal selector. check power in the the presssure switches then the switch itself good luck dr

could it be a fuel restriction? when "bolt on mustang guys" add all the aftermarket stuff, the lines and pump/pickups can be problematic maybe install a pressure/vacuum gauge on the supply side and see if you are pulling a vacuum. be careful, remember, NO FUEL lines in the cab good luck

I like the dual headlights, but they do seem a little small I like them though dr

these are just simple sensor assemblies, no kind of active controls (engine shut downs) aka one wire sense wire out of the gauge and one power in then the temp sensors (a pair) each have one wire the gauge for the oil pressure is also one sense wire out and power in but the pressure sensor has 2 terminals, which is a bit confusing, and leaves me the possiblity of smoking a bunch of stuff not sure what the kysor system is. the sensors (I assume...yea...I know...lol) appear to be delco style and eveything associated seems delco style, too. this is a complete re-wire it seems like unless you want to chance buying various crusty ebay manuals there is nothing looks like I am going to have to start a wiring payper view website...i'll be rich in no time....(insert evil laugh here) (sarcasm...lol) thanks dr

I have a 1968 detroit 6-71 v6 and am doing wiring. anyone familiar with a dual temp semsor system? also a dual terminal oil pressure sensor? I have searched the net until i am crosseyed, and no luck (even many of my old sources seem to have the links gone dead) thanks, dr dodge

I would start at the column switch sometimes being "heavy handed" can spring the pivot mechanisms in many (not just macks) coulmns I always start here, right after finding the dead socket, being as many times that is exactly where I ended up after 2 hours of crawling around, under and between everywhere else good luck,

wow, no kidding! very interesing dr

nice work dr

not enuff info to make any decision and at (IMHO) 8k a little too much to risk interior pic was weird so makes me think that was the best part of the interior pretty straight body though dr

I would disagree on the body sure the work sucks, but its only sheet metal a good frame, (no between frame rails rot) and a decent drivetrain is very important with a reasonable priced good mig, and a pile of raw sheetmetal, I'd rebuild a complete cab way before tackling a trashed or poorly maintained driveline!! look for cracks in the frame & ripped out motor/trans/suspention mounts, being as many of these old trucks were not driven by the people who actually coughed up the cash to buy them, just morons who drove them grab the driveshafts and look for pinion issues as those can mean a whole housing if "tightened and ignored" over time same with the output of the trans look at the fluids.....water in anything....not good that said, "issues" can be reason to get a $10k truck for $2500 bucks but the best advice is always to "sleep on it" in most cases, come here ask questions, research dr

thats very nice the hard part is the stuff you do before you finally get to assemble I always laugh that the first part is h''l, but the second half is like christmas every day opening presents, and putting clean nice pieces back together I like the frame all empty and clean talk about an open pallet dr

the r model is (I think) a ~73 these are brother joes trucks (heavy metal) I am up here doing restification/repairs/service on all of them being as I am laid off (perm from GE) when I get back to tx i'll list my stuff 1958 dodge w500 ex army fire truck if you can tell from my name i am a dodge guy for....well,,,too many years chargers, challenger, dart, d350 van and other stuff great site ya'll are cool dr

here's a pic the old guys and their big brother

actually I live in tomball, but am on heavy metal retreat in nys until oct how do I load pics?

welcome brother dr