oilburner

the vin is dm685sx33507

something eles is the truck info on the cab sticker says it is a maxidyne engine, but the vavle cover says thermodyne engine on it maybe some one swap out the covers off another engine,

yea it is a 237 but the truck is a 1977 model and the engine is a 84, just wanted to know if some one could tell me anything eles, it pulls and runs really good for what it is.

I thank it is 55 rears here is a pic of the rears

Here are some more

Engine pics

What does the letters and the 65 mean on the rear end housing I figured I would post some pics of the engine to if anyone can tell me what I have I would love to know any info you all can give me

That is what we always do, use our 1/2 gun and anti sieze but sometimes when we trade for a truck or trailer the 1 inch impact usally has to come off the wall! We never called them pilot stud we always called the thimble lugs, I always thought the pilots were the later style with 1 5/16 lug that only had the one nut and both wheels come off, a lot better to deal with and the lugs don't get stuck in the wheels like the thimble because of lack of anti seize and sometimes they get over tighten and they sink thougth the wheel, that's why we use the 1/2 inch drive and go over them a few times not to mention it is a lot easier to hold up.

Just like you said jakebrake86, you have to fix it up faster than you wear it out, is why these trucks are getting hard to find still being used, some people will run them in the ground because they don't want to spend any money on the old trucks, but that is how they get in such bad shape like mine was getting before I got it, it is not the same truck now and if the previous owner was to see it I bet money he would want to buy it back, but for the same money of course, you have to fix them as they break not run it and watch it. The guy I got it from once told me that a mack was a poor mans truck because you could haul more on a mack broke down than any other truck, when you hear stuff like that you got to look over them I guess, if it is broke down then you should get it fixed is what I always figured. so take care of a old truck and spend a little money when needed and it will save you in the long run even if it means spending a few weekend under it turning bolts it is better than being on the side of the road.

Yea it is a good feeling but here lately it one day you fix something the next day you find something else wrong then the next you fix it then the next you find another problem, lol well it has not been taken care of so there is some issues, used and abused!

What is wrong with the whole truck, and it looks like a nine speed mack stick,

Is that 10 speed one of the split tens or 5 low and 5 high? and how much are you asking for it

Thanks bud It has been a work in progress the old truck had set along time before I got her. But slowly coming together, but you do have a week spot for the offset cabs don't you! LOL.

I don't know but that kind of mpg is about right for a local truck, my 237 only gets about 4.5 with 5.13 ratio and a six speed and gross around 68,000. Top speed is 57 mph but it holds it's on when you hit the hills the little engine does seem like it burns a lot of fuel but it is running hard all the time with the gear and the big gap six speed, your either got her toped out or pulled down hard waiting to make a shift, so I would say that has a lot to do with the mpg. I was using a 98 with a e7 454 and it got about the same 4.5 but it had a 2130 trans with 44 rears and 4.17 ratio with low pro 24.5 and it done a good job pulled over 100,000 lbs with it no problem. Good luck hope you get her going good

mine has the pump on the injector pump, but the tach drive is in the same place on the block, but mine is a 237 so maybe that is the difference.

I found a place today to get new camel back springs but they do not offer a 55 only a 50 and a 58,000 lb springs. Now is the 55,000lb just what every one called a 50,000 lb or were they actually a 55,000 lb rears they are c112 with a 8 leaf spring with 8 bolt axle caps, what do you all thank, and the spring new for the 58,000 are 800 bucks a piece.

Been doing a little paint work on the bed and frame

all you have to do is get under the truck and on the bottem side of the king pin is a cap that looks like a big four way screw it has a big cotter pin in it that you have to pull out then just turn it to push the king pin up then reinstall the cotter pin and grease it good. As far as the wheel bearing mine was not lose all the slack was in the king pin. Bit if you have a lose wheel bearing you can tighten the spendal nut and that should do it I usually tighten it up good and tight then back it off while spinning the wheel till it spins good and free

well I didn't check the bearings but the drivers side was froze up after spraying it and warming up the cap screw with a few taps from a hammer they freed up good. You could be right about the bearing because it had a lot of slack in it.

yes that what I was told she still stears with one finger but I would say that I will have to replace them if I have this problem again I still have just a little slack on the drivers side

Well I was doing some work on my dm and notice the front wheel seal was leaking so I jacked it up to check the wheel bearing for movement when I stuck a bar under the wheel to move it it moved a lot, so after looking at it while a old friend of mine moved the bar I found the movement was not in the wheel it was the king pins, so at this time I was throwing my hands up and thanking I was going to have to spend 3 or 4 hundred dollars on king pins and bushings when a older guy I know who has truck for years told me that macks have taperd king pins and they could be adjusted to take the slack out of them, he told me how to do it and also said that you had to whacth it because you could get them to tight. In about a hour it was good as new, I think all trucks should be this way it is a good idea

I am wanting to find a good place to buy some 55,000 rear anti sway springs for my mack, I have a anti sway on one side and a soft ride on the other and now the smaller springs have a broke leaf, if any one can help me let me know what a new set will cost I do not really want to put another used set under it unless they are in really good shape and it is hard to tell with a spring.

If it is a older style mack and not a e7 you will not get it out of time by taking the pump off as long as you don't pull the front. the pump will only go on one way, but a e7 I leaned the hard way has a different set up with the econvance on them and you can put the pump on sevral ways because it has a splined shaft with a coupler that drives it from the econvane. Before I pulled it I would take j hancocks advice and cover all the bases frist it could just be the lift pump the pulls the fuel to the injector pump. I have seen these engine stick wide open after sitting for a long time, a friend of mine has a r model dump that sit about 2 years and we were going to get it going one spring when we put a battery in it we had a problem with it getting fuel so we put air in the tank and got it up to the pump, as soon as it fired it was wide open we could not kill it with the kill luckly he got it in gear somehow and killed it that way and he has not messed with it since, so check out the simply things before you go pull the pump and when you do get it going be ready for the worst. Good luck

84Superdog I know what you are going thought, money now days is not worth what it used to be and in trucking it cost about as much to let one sit as running one. you could drop insurance and let the tags run out and delete it from your fuel taxes and keep it, but then again it is a truck and needs to be ran and taken care of so maybe someone can take it off your hands and have some work for the old truck. You could park it in the back yard an keep her but pretty soon it would be in worst shape than if you were hauling coal out of the pit with it. I just wish I had the cash to buy her and s good haul to put her on. Dang good looking truck

looks like you got the dog geared up to run.