oilburner

Ok i still have no pics but he said he would sell the whole truck like it sets for 2500 bucks, it has a 350 2v that someone has converted to a tip turbine set up and a 13 speed, it has a engine break but i thank it is the dynatard style, the truck would be worth the money i thank, i havent herd it run but i have had 2 or 3 people tell me it sounded good, and it would fire right up with one battery.

Don't you just love it when a plan comes together...Glad you got her fixed.

I don't double clucth either, just use it to pull out. My E7 454 does best at 1600 and 1700, we gross around 88 to 95,000 so i get alot of smoke if i shift any sooner, empty i shift at 14 or 1500, gets her rollin fast.

As soon as it quits raining i will go get some pics, so you don't thank i am makeing this up, it has rained here for 3 days now and getting cold.

Ok now your giving me hell!! LOL no i know your not but this was me a few weeks ago. I started useing the progressive shifting and not that i had problems grinding gears but you can make the shift faster it just falls in quicker, the mack trans does shift diffrent but i would not say harder, you just get used to it. The only problem i had when i frist got in it was making the shift to high range, it was like the shifter would not come out of the hole, but shifting at the low rpm helps. The 8LL trans to me is a very nice trans, you have a low low hole and it allso has a good overdrive. The 10 speed and 15 speed eaton do shift very smooth, but the 9 speed and 8 LL are proberly a little harder because of the ratio jumps in the shifts. The hardest trans i ever drove to shift was a 613 in a ford with a 3208 cat, that thing was awful to drive.

I don't know, i thank the looks even if it did not help the truck or have a practical reason, if it made the truck look better i think it would help sell them. All trucks look the same now days there are no classy looks, it is just areodynamics these days. How much you want to bet if mack came back out with the r models cab and hoods, or the superliner that they could not build them fast enough, best looking trucks ever made. Just thank a r model with a ch ride, Maybe i'm just crazy but i thank those are the most popular trucks in the coutry, and aparently in other countrys to because alot of them are going over seas.

Just what i was thinking Lmackattack, our goverments have gone about as far as they need to go.. Time to call the rubber duck up and head to the capital!!!

It says it has a wet line and i see the controls and hook ups, but were is the tank. I am thanking 8500 now, it's a little rougher than i thought.

Thats probely not a bad deal if it looks as good in person, but i can tell by reading the write up that the guy does not know what he has, it says the truck has 38 rears and by looking at the pictures i pretty sure they are 44's and it looks like it has a power divider on the dash, you don't see many with a power divider air operated, i would say 10 will buy it.

I have always herd of people useing progresive shifting, but i always thought it was shifting at 1300RPM, utill i was reading a post on here about it. I have always shifted at close or about gov. speed of the engine, the frist truck i drove had a big cam cummins in it and to be honest that was the only way to get any thing out of it, it really had a sweet spot at 21 or 2200. I read about shifting at 1600 and 1700, so i thought the next time i haul i will try this with the ch. So i must say i would shift at 1600 in the low side when i frist tryed it i didn't think it was going to pull it out, because i am grossing around 92000, but it done it just fine, and the truck pulls harder this way i guess because you are keeping the engine in it's max touqe range. Now on the high side with the 13 speed maxitouqe trans i found shifting it at 1700 Rpm worked the best kept the smoke down, i have also found that out of 4 trips i can get almost another half a trip out of a tank of fuel, so all i have been doing is waisting fuel keeping the r's up around 2100 before i would make a shift. I have found pulling long grades like jellico mt on i 75, that if i down shift at 1500 that it will put it around 1800 when i get back in it, which it usally will pull back down to 17 or 1650 as long as i keep it above 7th direct, if i go below it wants to stay in the 1800 range, but you can back out of the pedal a little and it will still hold engine speed. This page has been very helpful and is full of information for not just mack owners but thoses that have brand x as you guys call them also, Thanks alot.

Welcome, yes the pete is a good looking ride>>!

Her are a few macks i have hauled with.

Yes they will, i luged my 98 e7 down the other day on a hill and it rolled backward and fired up and smoked out the hood, but it did not do it but a few sec. I had a little to much wegiht on here and was trying to let a loader operator get out of my way without stoping and haveing to pull out on a grade, i know rookie stuff right!!

OK i got you now, try to get pics in a day or two

Sounds like you are not getting the right amps. to the starter, i had a areomax do this same thing once. The truck had been converted from air start to electric start, what happen was the guy mounted a ford style starter silonoid on the fire wall close to the hood at the top of the fire wall, the hood actuly rubed against it and over time it came apart from the top, but looking at it it look fine, we were trying to boost it off one day and i reach up and tryed to see if the wire was loose and it moved in toward the bracket, i then pushed in on it and it started right up, sound like the engine is not turning over fast enough, if that is the problem i would check the silonoid or the battery cables.

I'm not sure what the diffrents is, but i will try to get some pictures anyway maybe you can get the one closer to home, i am not sure if he would even sell just the stumps out of the truck, but he never said he wounldn't. But i do belive they had the touqe rods on the tops of the rearend that went up to the crossmembers, if that is what you mean.

I went to look at the rearends and they are 38, they are in a superliner one with the round headlights. They got the truck for the engine and tranny, the frame has been length out it had a log bed on it, the truck is rough, and i do mean rough, the grill is missing and the doors are beat up, he did not know if he would sell just the rears, i don't know if you would be intersted in the whole truck or not but he was busy and i did not talk to him long. the truck is black with a silver strip on the doors, it has a 350 and a 13 speed in it but they won't to keep the engine and trans. the rears look like they have been put in it before the truck was parked but that has been a while, they have 14.17 wrote with a white marker on the top of the houseing. What do you want me to offer him for the rears, or if you would be intersted in the truck less motor and trans, in my opinion i would say a 1000 bucks for the truck because of the shape it is in, but the rears may be worth that along i don't know. I have to get up with him this coming week and i will try to get pictures then it was dark and i was useing a flashlight to look at it. let me know what you thank 84superdog.

I have never seen a wet clucth in a truck before..

That truck reminds me of one a buddy of mine had that at one time had been a concret truck his was a 62 model with a 220 and a deepreduction 10 speed which i think is a 15 speed. he made it into a log truck, it would haul a heck of a load but 55 mph was about it.

I don't know about were you are, but around home the truck would sell for a working truck, not a restore. It would be put to work. I would say 4500 on the low end and 6500 on the high end, but it would also depend on the buyer. I asked my old man one time what a old kenworth was worth and he said all you can get out of it!! But it is a good looking old truck you don't see many single axle dumps like it, so maybe it went up a little more like 7500!! just my 2 cents no offence indended

Thanks, that is kinda what i figured, have seen u joints and things do this so that's why i was checking them, if a u joint can do it then i guess a yoke can to. but you know how it is, may put a new yoke on it tighting it up and it still do it. The only other thing i seen that was questionable were the touqe arm busings are shot also, maybe letting it walk around a little, it has the ones that go side to side, or maybe the yoke caused them to wear quicker.

Not to change the subject, but we have a international eagle that does this between 50 and 54 mph, bad if it is empty, i check the u joints and found the yoke on the back rearend is very lose and sloppy, the nut is not lose it is like the splines are wore really bad it will flop around with your hand bad, Could this cause this Glenn?

It is proberly a great truck, easy to drive and easy on the driver, but dang what ever happen to style, They could make it look a little better, i mean some people would say cabovers are ugly and they would not drive one, but the old f model macks and the mh are really sharp old trucks, look at the older trucks like the k 100's and the old freightliners, man they made some good looking trucks, i look at that thing and thank, who thanks that is a good looking truck?

Could have a bent or worped wheel, if it is dayton style spoked wheels, check your spacers.

I talked to the guy today about the rearends, he said that they are 40,000 lbs mack, now i did not thank they mad 40's, Did they? I am going to stop by there and look at them, do you know what numbers i should be looking for on the stumps. I know that the ratio is on the front of the houseings but is there another number i should be looking for?