Bollweevil

They are only being offered, because it is the best design ever, from any standpoint.

Shifter clutch, and or head gear. more than likely a worn or bent fork also.

With the Duo Glide front fork, as pictured, and the spring loaded seat post It wouldn't ride bad at all. A hand shift and a foot clutch are a piece of cake. The H-D foot clutch rocker was just that , a rocker. It was a friction loaded device with which you disengaged the clutch with your toe and re-engaged it with your heel. Until it got some wear on the disc. Not a problem, unless you left the bike running in gear. Say for instance, while you were writing someone a traffic ticket. Then the sucker would leave without you. That happened a lot more than you would imagine.

Great Smokey Road Block

150 on the rods 190 to 210 on the mains

I might grow old, but I refuse to grow up. thanks

To answer your question. 4th and 5th speed gears have to be pressed from both counter shafts. It takes a really good press. Then you swap places with them. They are keyed to the shaft so that part is simple. How easy it is depends on what you have to work with. Do one shaft at a time. Due to PTO issues, identify the counter shafts as to left and right when you strip the transmission, and make sure they go back in the same place. Counter shafts are timed to the main shaft, Looking at the front of the counter shaft and using the key way for a guide, remark the counter shaft for reassembly. On some of the really old Fuller transmissions you might be able to swap places with the head gear, or main shaft 5th and main shaft 4th. In your case, you will probably have to buy a new head gear, with the same number of teeth as the old main shaft 4th. This is due to differences in machining, as the head gear and the input shaft are locked together with a snap ring. You will also need a need a new 5th gear with the same number of teeth as the old 4th. If I have confused you, You must remember that you changed the order of progression on all of the sub assembly's. Before reassembly, mark the new head gear for timing purposes. You can do that with a dab of paint on one tooth, does not matter where you start, count the teeth divide by two and mark the other side, You need the same number of teeth on each side of your marks.

Personally,i don't like the eldorado seats,my dad had one in his pete,and it was godawful un-comfortable! it does'nt really travel like a bostrom seat,it kinda leans forward i could never get it adjusted to my liking,just my opinion,but i would would go with a Bostrom...............................Mark [/quote I concur with your opinion, Just about as next to nothing as you could waste time on. I had a worn out Bostrom in my first truck, and I just had to have an Eldorado. A big mistake. If you can sit in one for 18 or 20 hours and still get out and walk, you are a better man than me.

An RTX14609B is a .73 overdrive. The 14613 0verdrive transmission is made up of a direct 9 speed with an overdrive rear box which gives you a .87 not a .73 final drive ratio. The 14609B is over driven in the front box, the 14613 is over driven in the rear box. By adding the 14613 Rear box you compound the overdrive to a .63 final drive. Other than a rear box, a matching auxiliary drive gear is all you need to make the swap. You wont change anything at all as far as ratios in the first five gears. Highway speed in 9 direct will remain the same. You might find something you can use as you start splitting the top four, probably not. You could possibly set your hair on fire.

I had always hoped that someone would not only come up with some device that would defeat police radar, but would set fire to the car and burn it to the ground. All for around $99.99 or less. I'm also hoping to see #2 Diesel back below $.75 a gallon. a mandate to remove all hokey ass fairings, and a proclamation to start making cars and trucks look like they did in 1965. A man should not limit his dreams to something entirely trivial.

Are you re locking the bull ring properly? If it has the PUSH to unlock adjuster, the adjuster might be the problem itself. If left unlocked the bull ring will screw itself out every time you push the clutch. Sometimes to the point that if stopped in gear, the truck will run out from under you.

The road use tax schedule starts at 55,000, and is prorated according to registered weight. Register for 54,000 and forget it, NO ROAD USE TAX.... You cannot get enough dirt in a 14 foot box to get in trouble.

My first trip across across Donner was the occasion when I realized, that although I already knew just about everything, I did not know how to drive in the mountains. Having survived, and realizing my lack of knowledge, I searched out someone who did know. Basically it is this, slow down before you need to. get in a gear that will actually retard your forward motion, even if it means going into the low side. If you do not have a working engine brake hold a light constant pressure on the brakes to keep from over speeding the engine. If you can't tighten up on the brakes and stop easily you are not in a low enough gear. DO NOT FAN THE BRAKES. A cushion of air between hot brake shoes, and hot drums, will only serve to expand the drums more. Ignore any moron who insists that you are going too slow, especially if he or she says you are making their brakes get hot. Good luck, I hope none of you have to learn the hard way.

It will be 1 to 1 in high, about what you could hope for in any gas set up. The ratios will be close to the same as a 14609. The big differences are the spur cut gearing, and smaller counter shaft bearings. They don't hold up well behind a big engine, without a bearing upgrade. Otherwise they are tough enough.

If and when you make such a trek, you are already good for ILL. OK, and TX should not pose a problem. On the other hand MO could, and NM probably will. I promise there will be more of a problem with NM. You will have to clear a port of entry in NM, and you can pay any fees there, You would be better advised to call each state DMV to see what each requires. Permits can be faxed to just about any truck stop through a permit service. But a permit service can not tell you what kind of surprise can be in store. Knowing how nasty they could be, when I brought my RS back from Oregon, I elected not to fool with NM , and saved almost $200.

Unless policy has changed, there is no antique registration program available. How you register depends, on how you will use it. A county of residence type tag is $150.00 plus county tax. It is good instate only, if you are working the truck. Proof of insurance is necessary, along with a copy of a currant 2290, if you register for over 55,000 lbs. Stay under 55,000 regardless, to avoid reams of paperwork. Example, a tandem dump is allowed 61,000, the federal highway on say 30,000 miles is not much but you have to keep records of miles run and file a 2290 annually. Register for 55,000 and if you ever get cited for being over registered weight, pay it and go on.

It couldn't get better than having your truck and eating it too.

As long as you are 18 years old, can pass a DOT physical and and can pass the CDL exam, you can drive anywhere you want by yourself, as long as you stay in NJ. Google NJ CDL only, for details

You were not far off the mark, it was about a boob.

The valves set on .011 and .023. The overhead on this engine is set by the inner base circle method, and is confusing, if you are not used to doing it. Cummins did offer a shirt pocket sized chart, in the form of a treasure map, of where to go and dig next. It is confusing in that the valves are set on one cylinder and the injector on another. there is a lot of information on the net, some of which is dangerous. Buy or borrow a service manual. I have always set the Jake with the engine running, after going through the overhead. When you get that far I'll try to talk you through it.

I did look at them, and no heat ckecking, you can also do a quick valve to seat check by laying the heads alternately on each side and filling the ports with diesel fuel. These are still good little engines and easy to work on.

With that many bolts broken, you should probably take the fuel pump to a pump shop to have the calibration checked. When you jack the fuel pressure up on a Cummins it is also necessary to go with an injector with increased flow. Otherwise it will dramatically increase the pressure on the injector, push tube, and cam follower, and increases the likely hood of a failure of either one of the above. Take the push tubes one at a time, and after inspecting the ball ends, drop them from about waist level so that they will land flat, on the concrete floor. If you hear a musical ding a ling, they are good. If you hear a thunk it is oil filled and no good. It WILL hydraulic and blow the ball end out, possibly with catastrophic results.

You might get real lucky and not need a head gasket. Pigs and cows might start flying just any time now also. If the engine is still on the ground put a head gasket on it. It is a lot easier when you can walk around it, with enough room for a torque wrench to swing. Now is also the time to take a look at the rods and mains. I have owned and run several of these little engines and while I have known of some running over 1,000,000 miles, the reality is that during this time frame 450.000 to 600,000 was considered a good service life. Everyone I knew always rolled in a set of rods and mains before 350,000. I am not trying to throw cold water on you. Doing this now, when you don't HAVE to is a lot easier than doing it in the frame when it won't run unless you do.

An air chisel is by far the easy way to break it loose. Until you try this you will not realize just how much dust the clutch assembly will collect. Dust created by wear of the friction discs is bad enough. Rotation of the flywheel and clutch assembly must create a vortex to pull outside contaminants into the flywheel housing when the inspection cover is left off. More especially in off road use. From my own observation over the years, and I can think of no other reason, after finding a stuck gommed up adjustment ring and no cover plate. If yours doesn't have a cover, find one and install it.

Check the numbers, some of these tanks are still in the parts system. $700 plus sounds steep, until you waste a lot of time looking for something that is used but still serviceable. I like Robs Idea of fabricating some straps from stainless.