Bollweevil

I was kinda thinking along the same line.

I have never seen a slotted expansion plug. I would be interested in seeing a photo of the plug in relation to it's location.

After watching this video, I can now say that I know more than I ever wanted to know about transfer dumps. As far as stock piling aggregates, or sand, it is hard for me to see an apparent advantage over a dump plus a pup. or a long end dump. Dump trucking has always been about moving material, cost effectively. The added cost of such a rig plus the added maintenance, is just not called for in N. Ga. With an abundance of blue Granite, we have quarry's everywhere, and an asphalt plant nearby. Yes they do things differently when you have reached the fruited plains. Sometimes quite differently.

Nothing wrong with a man doing what he likes to do. Don't tell him he can't, I'll come stand at his back and we'll whup all you puppies.

If you haven't done so, verify the oil temp. Buy or borrow a heat gun, and check the temp close to the sending unit. You can buy one now for about $70.00 if you shop for one. You did not mention how the engine reacted in the several years prior. You can also check EGT Excessive turbo heat will put heat into the oil. Horse power in any engine is a result of heat. The more BTU's, the more HP. Bigger injectors, more juice, more boost, more BTU's, more HP, more heat to dissipate. Although not the primary function, a major function of engine oil, is to carry off heat. If you do verify, that the oil is that hot, then it should be looked at as a result. A lot of trucks were built with fan over ride switches. Yours could already be wired for one, check with the dealer.

Engine controls have changed greatly over the past decade. When trouble shooting any problem, we are still required to go back to the basic problem solving question. Whats on, when, and where? Also a general knowledge of the system, or subsystem is essential. The basic cooling system is simple. It consists of radiator, with cooling fins, water pump, to move the coolant, a system of hoses and passages to deliver the coolant to where it is needed. Then it get's complicated. What happens when the radiator capacity to radiate, or transfer engine heat to atmosphere is exceeded. Then we need a fan. The next problem is how to drive the fan. A belt still works good on a truck, if it is adjusted properly. Do we need a fan all the time? Nope that's too simple. The fan robs horsepower, so now we need a fan clutch, either viscous, engine oil pressure operated like the old Rockford, or air operated like a Horton. Management of either system, other than viscous creates another challenge. We can operate it with a solenoid, but that brings us back to when and where. We could use a rocker switch or toggle switch mounted on the dash, but n reality that is too simple. It requires an operator to pay attention. A water temp sensor mounted in a coolant passage in the head or water rail works, but is often further complicated by the addition of system shutdowns incorporated into it. I don't know if it is already being done, but it could be controlled by the on board computer in late model trucks. A diesel engine. like a race engine will perform better and more efficiently as it gets close to 200 degrees F. With new emission requirements, engines are operating a lot closer to the edge. You didn't say what you do with your truck, or when it acts up. Make sure the radiator is is not impacted with bugs or mud, and that the fan clutch is working properly. You can check for circulation problems by shooting top and lower tanks with a heat gun when it is overheated. Or just touch each tank, if one is a lot hotter, you might have a bad pump.

Does the engine have a #4 vent hose from the top radiator tank to the thermostat housing, or water manifold? I have seen a plugged hose cause similar problems on other engines.

If you are operate the unit every day you are better qualified to say what is normal, and what is not. A piece of equipment has guages in order for the operator to moniter changes. An increase in oil temp. is not normal. Over the years I have not been able to use that brand of filters, simply because they filter too well. They end up being too restrictive. Go back to a Mack filter, or try a Wix. Your problem will likely go away.

Check out Dale Hamilton's B67, type in Hi Yo Silver Rides Again, in the search block and scroll down.

Every coin has two sides. By re-powering with a known good engine, that was available, they probably saved a decent R model from oblivion. It might have gone to the scrap heap, or the shredder. These days you are not going to have an engine of any manufacture overhauled, for much less than $8,000. Usually a lot more. It is still a Mack, somebody can still use it for a while. It is not ruined, an R model is so tough that only rust or a major catastrophe can defeat one.

Better take it to heart, she can break down a 10.00x20 with the tools in her pocketbook. A sure enough truck driving girl, with her own truck.

Depends on what is leaking. You might have some success using a sealer on a NPT fitting. It would be of little use on a flare type fitting, common on most brake systems.

Rob has done as much or more of that repair as anyone. I remember seeing photos and a job description on a previous post involving drilling out a zillion spot welds. Dangle a trip to I-Hop in front of him and see what happens.

I've sat around so much the past couple of years, that it just doesn't take much to wear me out. I would gladly eat your cooking, I am sick of mine. Having to keep up with planning and preparing three meals a day along with everything else that it takes to make a house a home, is a sure enough chore. My hat is off to the real homemakers, wherever you are. A special salute to those, past and present, who have with their Lives and their Sacred Honer given meaning to this day. In the vernacular of the southern boy FREEDOM AIN'T FREE. God Bless those who have so unselfishly put themselves in harms way. Thank You. HAPPY 4th TO EVERYONE.

The problem now is not the size of the tomater, but where are we going to find a loaf of bread big enough to create a one slice sammich. I bet Rob can find one.

Rob, you have made a very good point about being sure that you are on the heel, or base circle of the cam before attempting to adjust the valves. For that reason, the most accurate way to set the valves is during the overlap. It is hard however for some folks to wrap their mind around that idea. Although it is all old hat for you, it might not be so for everybody, so here is a little chart that I use to remind me where I am while running overhead. It represents the 720 degrees it takes to completely cycle any 4 cycle engine. Mack or Cummins in line 6 both fire 120 degrees apart 1 5 3 first 360 degrees or top of the firing order 6 2 4 second 360 degrees or bottom of the firing order When you look at the balancer it will be marked 1-6 5-2 3-4 . It does not matter where you start in the firing order. If for instance the timing pointer is at 5-2, with the valve covers removed look at the valves on 5 and 2. If you have a valve open on 2, then you are at TDC on 5, or just opposite, same deal. If you are on 5 adjust the valves and bar the engine over to 3, checking for an open valve on 4. A good idea is to mark each valve as you adjust them. a tire crayon or white out work for me. Someone who does this every day might not need a chart. The important thing is to know where you were if you have to walk away and come back later. Check behind yourself, the best mechanic's always do without thinking about it.

Are you giving up this easy? Say it ain't so. Go to the video store and rent Maj. Payne. Listen to the part about the little engine that could.

It rides rough when pulling a lowboy, as opposed to pulling what else? My experience has been that the longer the wheel base, the better the ride. On a really short wheel base, when you hit a bridge approach the front suspension doesn't have time to recover before the drive tires hit. Then it feels like your in orbit. The return to earth is as bad as the sudden launch, but then the seat rebounds and tries to stick your head through the roof. A good ride is relative to what you are doing, where you are doing it, and what you have to do it with. On a really bad road, nothing rides good period. Like Herb has mentioned, sometimes you just have to get tough, and get used to it. Before I started changing anything I would hook it up to something else, like a van maybe and see what happens.

An open exhaust will hurt your ears a lot more than it would hurt the engine. The longer the pipe the less noise, the shorter it is the more noise, and more likely for the engine to lean out at high speed with stock jetting. This is completely unimportant unless you plan on adding a roll bar and taking it to the lawnmower race.

Measure from the end of the flywheel housing to the radiator core, to get an idea of how much room you have. Then measure the Cummins from flywheel housing to fan. It might be possible to move the radiator forward a couple of inches or the trans back 3 or 4 inches. Having room for it only matters when you consider how bad you want to do it. Possibilities are unlimited, for a creative mind.

That is exactly right. For the last 8 years I have run a lot of discards. You don't the very best on a construction site. Other than debris damage, heat is the major cause of tire failure. A flexing sidewall, due to under inflation will cause the best tire to fail. I run my tandem dumps at 110 psi. Why? As you increase the pressure, the load rating increases. A tight tire will run cooler and last longer. Did any of you readers see Henry Fonda in " Elegant John", the elegant part was that he never had a blowout. I've had plenty. A hammer or tire billy will let you know when a tire is low or flat," less than 60 psi" but a good tire guage is part of an operators gear.

GOP sell outs for the largest tax increase in US history Mary Bono Ca. Mike Castle De. Mark Kirk Ill. Leonard Lance NJ. Frank LoBiondo NJ. Christopher Smith NJ. John McHugh NY. David Riechert Wa. These Individuals, along with 211 Democrats voted for a bill that they not only have not read, but which had not been written. We need to say GOODBYE to the whole dang bunch.

You can find the Bendix AD 9 laying around everywhere. If you will take the time to look, someone will give you one. Just be sure to get the mounting brackets to go with it. They have been used for a number of years, and do a good job. The best thing about these is that you can completely rebuild it for around $75.00. You will need to take the filter to turn in, as the core charge is about as much as the filter. Fleet Pride, or Truck Pro, usually stocks the unloader kit and the filter.

Paul, one term is enough. As written, our constitution provided for a complete turn over every 6 years. 8 republicans just helped pass a climate bill that is no more than an energy tax. The only effect that anyone anywhere will see is a shrinking wallet. All 8 of them need to be out on their ass ASAP. One of the problems as I see it is that just about everyone thinks that their Congressman is fine. It is everyone elses' who is a rotten SOB. Let's get rid of all of them, or hold their feet to the fire over passing legislation that they haven't read, or that a Philadelphia lawyer couldn't satisfactorily explain.

Now, if you just want to burn brush, call me the next time you are in Alpharetta. I can fix you up with about twenty. I"ll even help you load and strap them down.