Bollweevil

A good drive line shop can replace the male end for you, they will need both sections in order align front and rear yokes, when welding the new splined end. You could let them check the female end for excessive wear as well. I would ask some one at a local trucking company who they use, for this kind of repair. Another option would be to find a good used assembly. You have to be careful if you do this though. You could spend as much, or more than it would cost to repair yours. I have never heard of anyone re-coating one. James

The main purpose of this coating is to cushion, and reduce the shock load on the slip yoke. A slip yoke is just what the name implies. As the suspension goes though its normal travel, the yoke moves in and out. Without the coating the splines tend to fret,or brinell. and wear a lot faster. These joints don't always get all the lubrication that they need. Another aspect of these coatings is that they don"t require as much lube. or as much clearance. In other woods you can have a tighter joint with a much lower wear factor. Now. with the coating gone, you have increased clearance in the splines, which will only get worse until it fails. Like a drive line that is out of phase, or out of time it will shake and vibrate. The best time to fix it is now, instead of on the side of the road. James

That's not the way it works, If the rig is drivable, take it to the closest repair shop that you are comfortable with. It"s your truck, not the insurance company's. The insurance company can't say who has to fix it. Insurance company's have a pool of adjusters available, who can properly access the damage, and in agreement with the body shop, determine how a proper repair can be effected. Call your agent, and tell them where the truck is, and tell them to get busy. You might want to get in touch with Rob, who is also a member of this forum. He can give you the real skinny on dealing with this problem, Good luck, James

Doglover, Shucks Son, don't get upset, this is just part of the joy of being an Owner Operator. Trucks, and knots, and cuts, and bumps, and scrapes, all seem to go together. Look on the bright side, you only need 4 more drive tires, and you still have 3 days until your house payment, truck payment, light bill, phone bill, and truck insurance are due. Cheer up son, God loves you. Now get back in there and make a Hand. James

Boy's, this isn't about loyalty to anyone. It's not about trucks that are built MACK tough. It's not about the construction industry, or even about the needs of the transportation industry today. Wishing and wanting is not going to change anything. You can jump up and down, and wave your arms, throw your hat down and stomp it, and that won't change anything. It is not about a bunch of fine old trucks manufactured and PURCHASED 20, 30, 40, or 50 years ago. What it is about is MARKET SHARE, plain and simple, and it is about right now. How did Volvo get strong enough to dominate? Well thats simple too, SOMEBODY HAD TO BUY THEM. That brings me to another subject, or should we just start another poll. What's sitting in your driveway, what does your wife drive to work, what do your kids drive to school. I have Fords and Chevy's in mine, they are all over 20 years old. GM and Ford are both in trouble big time, and something bought 20 years ago isn't helping them either. Trucks, and the trucking Industry are changing constantly, and it's not just the trucks that have to be tough. God Bless you all, have a good day. James

Twostick, I haven't been able to find anything different as far as number location is concerned. Here are some things to look at, that might help to narrow this down. 220's, 250's, 270's, and 335's all had a compression release lever located at the left front of the block. 220's had external fuel lines from pump to cylinder head. On 220's. and 250's, you have to loosen the water pump to adjust the fan belt. Also take one last look at the fuel pump. If It hasn't been removed there should be a tag riveted to the top of main body of the fuel pump. It should be just behind the tach drive. If it is still there it will have CPL number, that MIGHT identify your engine. Good luck, keep up the dialog. James

Engine numbers are stamped, there should be a raised area, just below the top of the block, about 6 to 8 1nches from the rear. They are often covered with Paint. If you still can"t find it, let me know and I'll research it further. One of the field mechanics from Cummins South lives nearby. I'll ask him. James

Do Google search on Hall-Scott, Truck engines. There is a bunch of information available,

If you can find a data plate on the axle housing, We might be able to reference the numbers and find a gear set. Look for a model number.

Engine numbers are located on the drivers side of the engine case, at the rear, just below the rear cylinder head.

Packer, That was Green River, I don't know if you might have known Kelly and Todd Harsha, The last I heard they were now living in Alaska. I came through Green River early last summer, pulling the RS700 that Rob just asked about. I didn't have time to even slow down. It was late in the afternoon Sunday, and I felt that I had better clear Wyoming and Colorado before daylight. Rob, if you are watching this post, I'll try to give a quick rundown on the RS700. Late last spring I sold my T800 tandem dump truck, I ran it 7 years and sold it for $6,000 less than I gave for it. I paid my home off, and this left me debt free and truck free. I had no plans what so ever as far as a truck was concerned. Then Just by chance one Sunday I saw pictures of an RS700, while surfing the web. What else would I look at except trucks? When I saw it I was ruined, I called Anderson Brothers Monday morning as soon as they opened and bought it over the phone. I always thought I would like a R700 because of the long hood and the room it had for a big ole engine. Jee Whiz, what could be more fun than trucking? Well, trucking with a big ole engine. After getting this thing home, swapping out the blown engine, and getting it to where I could move it around under it's own power. I realized that if I was going to do this to my satisfaction, i needed to go back to work. Dang. That's when I really went nut's. I bought an RW613 tandem dump to work with, and most of my time and energy has gone into resurrecting it and trying to work it a little. In the meantime I have bought a 44.000 lb. camel back set-up with brass trunnion. I was going to shorten the wheel base anyway. So, I'll slide the Hendrickson pad set-up out and slide the camel back in. I really came out to the good on this, as I gained out board drums with the deal. I still need to find an 8LL. The Mack 12 speed works perfectly, but it is a direct, and with the 450 gear it s just too slow. It would climb a tree, you could get out and walk faster than it will run in deep reduction. I am fully convinced that Mack has always had the right idea about using a deep final drive ratio, then overdriving the transmission to gain road speed. It takes most, or at least a major part of the shock load out of the drive line. So, that's my plan, with a .73 overdrive, a 450 gear and 24.5 tall rubber, I could run 80 mph if I wanted to, and stay right in the sweet spot at 65. Let me know about the media blast job. I am looking at a trailer mounted portable system made by a company in Houston, and I find myself getting seriously curious about the matter. James

Nope, morganton, Ga, I used to stop now and then to visit a cousin and her family. That was back when I ran fruit and produce back and forth to the northwest. I would like to say it was the good old days, but it was always in the dead of winter, and northwest freight was the only freight that paid enough to keep things going until Ca. opened up again in the spring. James

Clue #1 When the jackrabbits sit up on their back legs, and wiggle their nose, and look around with their ears straight up, they are almost as tall as a 900/20. Clue #2 Local area mines have pretty near as many miles of street underground as the township has above ground. Clue #3 ask Packer

Speed, thanks for the invitation, a good cup of coffee always hits the spot for me. I love trucks, and I love being able to sit down in one an make it do what it is supposed to do. I have trucked for a long time now, and I have always done it MY way. I have had some fun along the way, after all a man should enjoy what he is doing. I have made a lot of trucking friends, I have loved them all, and have tried to take care of them. Life is a learning experience. You learn some good things, that help you. And you learn some bad things that don't. When I started in the trucking business, I learned everything that wouldn't work first. That took a couple of years, and man was it tough. NOW, let me say that YOU could never offend me by being so enthusiastic over the very thing that I love the best. I will try to take care of you if I can, by offering of my own experiences. good and bad. I sure wouldn't dash water on a fire that I was trying to stay warm by. Just pour on some more fuel and watch the black smoke roll. God bless you and keep you safe, thats my prayer for you this morning, James

Speed, an air brake endorsement is a part of CDL requirements. If you operate a truck with air brakes, there is no way around a CDL. If a truck, trailer combination, including whatever you are carrying. is less than 26,000, a CDL is not required. That is, unless it has air brakes, or if the cargo happens to have any amount of Haz-mat. 26,001 and above requires CDL. Section 383 of the federal motor carrier safety regulations, address's all of your concerns. 383.91 weight groups, 383.93 endorsements, 383.95 air brakes. I understand that you have health issues that preclude a CDL, but, until you have participated in the federally mandated Highway Watch Program, you can't even apply for one. I know that this is a lot more than you would really like to hear. My suggestion to you is this, read and study ALL of the regulations that concern YOU and your situation, health and equipment wise. It is only, when you have a good understanding of the boundary's of what you can't do, that you can see the possibility's of what you can do. Either find you a niche that you can fit in and be happy, or make one that fit's you and what you want to do. After all, What is the use of being an outlaw if you can't terrify anybody.

Stripping the door is really easy, as the window, window regulator assembly all comes out together. If the door has a trim panel you will need to remove it. First roll the window all the way down, if there is no trim panel you can leave the door handle, and window handle in place. Then remove the door lock cylinder, by slipping a screwdriver under the clip located beside the door striker, and prying it back about 1/4 inch. Then remove the 3 striker mounting screws. This will leave you with a row of screws all the way around the outside edge of the regulator panel. Take them out and and carefully remove the window assembly. Before you reassemble the door loosen the 2 screws that attach the door striker to the panel about 1/2 turn. Start all screws before you tighten any, save the 2 striker to panel screws for last. If you are building up a door from scratch, it would be a good time to examine the lower mirror mounting bracket plate located inside the door. If the screw threads are good, mix up some JB Weld and smear some at both ends of the plate. When I had the brackets off my super liner for painting, that darn plate hit the bottom of the door when I removed the last screw. Have fun, James

Speed, I really enjoyed reading about your adventure at the DMV. Your entire experience is going to be of learning. Be sure to take a lot of baby pictures, I would really be interested to watch this baby grow. That is one thing that I regret about my project, having failed to document each stage. Hope You have good time, James

Rob, you have made my point exactly. I have never had to pay the DOT to stop me and do a roadside inspection. The fact is I have ran miles out of my way to avoid them. When you make it a point to know enforcement officers personally, they become part of your program instead of adversary's. In your case they like to see your old girls still in service. If you make them part of your program, they can help you to get your paperwork right and keep it right. If I schedule it ahead of time, one our local officers will come to my place of business, and inspect my trucks, at no cost. He git's to inspect a truck without the danger of being ran over, and I get a CVSA sticker in the windshield. We both get something, since he has to inspect trucks anyway. The up side of this deal is when they see me coming down the road with a load. They know my paperwork is right, and my truck is in good shape. Then we can wave at each other like you do, or I can yell at him on the CB Hey Man you look good back that way, I ain't seen no dump trucks.

Section 382.107 of the Federal Motor Carrier Safety Regulations, defines a commercial vehicle. Basically it is this, if it is for hire, and either the vehicle or vehicle trailer combination weigh more than 26,001. It is considered to be a commercial vehicle. Now, if you will step back and look at this for a moment, it also says what a commercial vehicle isn't. I just came home from the County tag office. I always wait untill the last moment to renew the registration on my dump truck. You don't ever know, you might sell out or even die, in which case you won't need a new tag. While there, I made some inquiry's about antique or historical tags. now let me say, this is Ga only, in the state of Ga a vehicle has to be 25 years old to be considered a historical vehicle. If the vehicle is not used for hire, and the gross vehicle weight is less than 14,000, it can be registered as a historic vehicle. Cost, $18.00, that doesn't include applicable taxes. Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be a provision for a historic, or antique commercial vehicle. It is either one or the other. A person has to decide for their self what they have, I want to say this one more time, a manufacturers GVWR has nothing to do with how you register your truck. If you are not going to work the truck, register it in the lowest weight group that you can, that includes the actual weight. in any event try to keep it under 55,000, any more than that and you will open another can of worms called, Federal Road Use tax.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY BARRY

Is your state involved in the CVSA Inspection program? If so, go over the truck yourself to make sure you have no safety violations, then arrange for a state officer to inspect the truck. They will put a CVSA sticker in the windshield that is good for 90 days. The inspection receipt will stand for your annual inspection. Just be sure you keep it in the truck, in case of a roadside inspection. Ask around and try to find an officer in your community. They have to inspect trucks anyway, and would probably rather do it in relaxed manner. I have 2 officers in my community, and have made it a point to be friendly with both. It makes the day go by better, when you know someone is not going to mess with you just cause he can.

Phillip, I got a little carried away, our 61.000 breaks down to 20,320 per axle instead of 23,000. a more recent development is this, when hauling aggregates, the gross weight can increase to 64,000 when delivery is made in the same county as you loaded in, or in the adjoining county. But you can't cross 2 county lines. thats where the 23,000 per axle on the tandem comes in, and you still have to bridge it. Figure that out. James

A manufacturers GVW or axle rating is useful when spec-ing a vehicle for your particular purpose. Some truck owners over spec. to gain reliability. But an axle rating, or spring rating, has little or nothing to do with what you can legally carry. Example. On a 5 axle semi, You can legally gross 80,000 on the Interstate in the State of Ga. That"s 12,000 on the steer 34,000 0n the drive and 34,000 on the trailer. That's assuming that the rig is long enough to comply with the federal bridge law. We don't run tri axles in Ga, because the third axle is not recognized as a load bearing axle. with a tandem, we can legally gross 61,000, on state or county roads, if we can bridge it. You can run a tri-axle, if you don"t gross over 61,000. Now don"t turn around and tell me that that doesn't make any sense. The state doesn't want tri-axles tearing up the highway, and thats that. So, operators here spec their trucks as light as they can and still maintain reliability. Example, many, spec 34,000 rear axles with 38,000 hubs. Another Issue here, which is becoming more of an issue, is tire ratings. To go back a little bit, That 61.000 is broken down to 23,000 per axle. I don't know who would want to run 23,000 on the steering axle, but that's how it is figured. Federal law stipulates that you can not exceed the tire rating, so if you have 2 steer tires rated at 7,000, that gives you 14,000, and you still have to bridge it. You can find more than you want to know about the federal bridge law by doing a google search. If this isn't confusing enough, every state is not the same, every one is a little different