Bollweevil

Checking the axle vents should be part of your regular pm program. It is a fact of life that they will clog under normal to dusty conditions. most vents have a cap which is loose on the stem. Pick up on the cap with your fingers and spin it, that is all it takes. A pressurized housing could lead to a failed seal. Time. temp, and mechanical also can contribute, although a wheel seal can fail for no apparent reason at all. Understanding how and why components function, along with good pm help, but sometimes just to get your attention a truck will reach out and bite you on the ass anyway.

DAMMIT BOY

If someone here does not recognize this, redirect your inquiry to Atlanta Gear and Axel 404 691 7662. Someone there can probably identify it.

A least he or she missed the pole.

I am impressed.

Over the years, I have run all kinds. These days, a bargain on a quality tire, might be hard to find. Dealer support is a contributing factor. If I had to have a pair of steer tires first thing in the morning. Dunlop would be my choice. I never had a bad one. If I'm not mistaken their casings are made in a Bridgestone plant. A few years ago, you could buy a Dunlop for slightly less than a $100.00 less than the other major brands.

Welcome, Keep plugging along, ask questions, always check your work, you don't have to know everything to be a good mechanic, you just have to know how to find out.

Years ago, I had replaced a U joint with a no name bargain joint. It failed after a couple of month's, threw a shaft, wiped out a front diff yoke, and left me stranded on the side of the road in the middle of the night. When I got the thing apart, I discovered that one side of the cross had never been drilled, no way it could take grease. Since then I have never used anything but a Spicer joint.

If you are losing oil at the jake brake housing, it would be easy to find. Pull the valve covers and watch while an assistant starts the engine. Why an assistant? They could also shut it off before it makes too big of a mess. Any oil loss at the jake housing is unacceptable. I once had to do a roadside repair for a friend, whose jake had come apart under pressure and blew a hole as big as a golf ball in the top of the valve cover. A 3406 has rocker arm stands like an FE Ford. The jake oils through a ported alignment stud which is press fitted into the top of the stand. It is sealed by an o ring. Take the cover off and look, and you wont have to guess. I just noticed your address. West Texas Peterbilt is the place to go , in your area.

Remember, why who could forget, it only took 5000 Mexican's with artillery 13 days to defeat 185 volunteer's armed at the end with clubs and knives. I haven't forgotten our beloved Congressman from Tennessee either. I haven't forgotten the battle of San Jacinto, where Sam Houston handed Sants Anna's army their asses in only 18 minutes. Mexican casualty's 730 Texas 9. Santa Anna ran away and hid like a little girl. At his capture he was only positivily identified by his silk under drawers.

You can and should buy a replacement pump with a cast impeller.

I had some on my eggs, mighty tasty, a little dab will do ya.

I haven't heard it in years, but there is a song about that called, Long Haired Big Tittied Bubble Headed Girl, I would like to hear it again, instead of just singing it to myself at times. That is if anybody can find it.

I watched that IRT show once, for less than 30 seconds. You shouldn't apologizs for that hokey BS. The producers should apologize to you, and myself, and everyone else that has ever operated in a real world situation.

When you mentioned soot, it reminded me of a situation I once encountered. At between 5 and 6 thousand miles after an oil change my 350 Cummins dropped oil pressure from 60 to 15 lbs. running. I changed the filter and it went right back to 60 lbs. It stayed up until service time, and after about 6 thousand it did it again. The truck would puff a little between shifts, but never smoked excessively. I was discussing the problem with a friend, and he said , I had the same problem, change the Turbo. Soot was entering the oil through the turbo shaft seals. I changed the turbo and never had that problem again.

You need to keep a 5 year old around to make the damn thing work?

Pondiferous, to say the least.

If you are predisposed not to use lucas oil additive in an engine that you don't use anyway, nothing anyone says will affect your decision one way or another. Substitution of a gallon of Lucas for a gallon of engine oil at each oil change is not cheap, but neither is a gallon of premium engine oil. What about people that do use their engines, everyday, that do use it and swear by it. A million miles on a B model Cat or a 400 Cummins without an overhaul doesn't exactly sound too ignorant.

First of all, did it ever at any time work properly? If it did, your problem probably is not valving. Sometimes, the cylinder packing will swell, and as the pressure bleeds off, the hoist will stay up. Try raising and lowering the hoist several times while loaded. Sometimes as the hoist cylinder wears, the hoist will fowl on uneven ground, and it wont come down till you get level.

Try, C.C. Walls Garage, Silver City, Ga. 770 887 3696 Bolton Truck Parts, Cumming Ga, 770 887 5958 Felton Clutch [and brake] Chattanooga, Tenn. 423 266 8858

Is it just myself, or is anyone able to log on.

It confused me too Tom. the first time I read it. I always had someone spray water on the car while I sat inside cursing my luck. I still have the Mac tools molding clip release tool purchased well over 40 years ago. It was also known as a windshield buster, and has sucsesfuly broken many windshields. The dealership would then send the car out to the glass shop for a windshield, and Buick Motor Division always paid for them. In retrospect, I don't know why I didn't just hit them with a hammer, instead of searching for hours for a water leak.

Extra fine looking bunch, now which one is you?

Trent, with your ability, if you could run with me for two weeks, I could have you doing things with a ten wheeler that you wouldn't believe possible. In the area that I live, we have had to gravel, then come back and pave roads so steep that a billy goat could not stand up on. Steep enough at times that you would barely have to extend the hoist. I was on such a road in a sub division once, with a load of asphalt, when a couple of the guys that I worked with showed up with crusher run. They had to back up the hill I was on, then run up an even steeper drive to a house site. I wondered for a moment what the heck are they doing, that is just a new cut, no place to turn around, not even a pad for a house, the hoist would not go high enough to spread any thing if they could turn around. As I watched, the second truck started to raise the hoist just a little, and backed off the mountain spreading gravel. When he was out of the way the first truck backed over the first load, and picked up where he had left off, and finished the drive. It looked like it had been finished with a motor grader. Sometimes, for instance when freshening a forestry service road there is no dozer, or grader. If you screw up, you might have to shovel your way out.

I think you would be a lot happier with a different set up. Personally I prefer a a direct mount air shift unit, You can raise the body as high as you want in neutral, put the transmission in gear, pop the gate, and drive out from under your load, raising the body as needed. If you need to just start where someone else finished, as in spreading base on a new road. Put the PTO in gear, raise the hoist on the fly, pop the gate where you need to, and run the load out. I have tried spreading dirt, good luck with that idea. Even if it is dry enough, you can't get the same results twice in a row. Thicker is harder, and you don't need chains at all. Especially if you don"t like shoveling dirt out of a clogged tail gate.