Bollweevil

Check the aneroid diaphragm. Midway on the back side of the pump a steel line goes up and makes it's way to the after cooler. Disconnect the line at the after cooler, and apply no more than 15 lbs. air pressure. A hand held vacume-pressure guage is best. It has to hold pressure. Before you get too involved, old fuel lines are prone to come apart inside and suck together. Make up, or use a known good feed line , run it into a five gallon container, and go for a short ride. short because return fuel will still be going into the tank.

As you are searching for this malfunction, if the truck has a front drive shaft with a mid shaft bearing. check the yoke at the bearing. It is splined to the shaft and retained by a center bolt. I once had a pop and crack like you describe, that I just could not find. I replaced a worn front diff, and went through the rear with no joy. Just a few days later I had to walk home. The front drive shaft turned fine, the rear wouldn't. Needless to say, it also sounded like a hog eating hickory nuts

Yes. They are the same basic engine. Big Cam 4's are STC engines.

I have encountered the same problem, on a high mileage transmission, that was due to badly worn splines on the main shaft and auxiliary drive gear. Have you ever noticed a little sticker beside the shift pattern sticker, that say's, 'Do Not Change Range While In Reverse"? Doing so can damage the sync. the least of which, is to throw the springs out of the assembly.

That sounds about right for road speed. holcombtrucks.com has an on line calculator that I use. To use their calculator, you need to know the tire diameter. I think a 24.5 will measure about 41 in. Check one to be sure.

Good Job. When you feel frustrated, take your drivers license out of your wallet, and look at it. You must bee a truck driver, it says so right on your license. A real operator can do ANYTHING better than anyone else. It is in your blood, admit it, and go on to something difficult, or perhaps impossible for ordinary folks.

I would not worry about it a whole lot. At least you can still call a shovel a shovel on either side of the pond, without offending someone. If you call it anything else, all bet's are off.

Not being argumentative, but the rear of the truck is not right if the front is not right. That is my point. Air pressure will equalize loaded or empty. An improperly adjusted rear affects the front. The rear is a lot easier to adjust, in order to compensate. Front or rear, they are still part of the same truck. When I was young I once had an occasion to ask my wife what a headache could possibly have to do with her ass. Ask yours, and lets see if we both got the same answer LOL

What does ride height have to do with anything, what could it possibly affect? Except for steering geometry, and pinion angle, a good ride down the road, what else. Keep in mind that you are working off two different platform's which may or may not have had even the same tire size. When you get it set the way you want it, on a level pad put a level on the frame rail. If your set up is right it should be very close to level. Check your pinion angles, a guage is not expensive at all, when the angles are right, you can go back to them on PM. '

Hard to figure a road speed gain, without knowing the Engine RPM range. It might be possible on the calculator to increase road speed 8 or 9 mph by changing to the larger tires. The Fuller 8LL is a .73 overdrive, so is the Fuller 18. An 8LL is my favorite for a road truck, I like to have the truck geared to loaf along at 65 to 70, at about 1600, and be able to accelerate hard, with just a little more throttle. An E9 can pull a lot of gear, but at some point you will have to trade something you really like for something that isn't so neat. You can go really fast, or you can make it really last.

During their time frame they were better than good enough. They don't have as high of a torque rating, as later models, they have older generation spur cut gears, which may or may not be a little nosier. If it does not have any issues, it should be good for anything that you plan on doing with it.The only bad point that I can remember, is the counter shaft bearings. They didn't last long, particularly with a hot engine. Fuller made a bearing kit available, with barrel shaped rollers, which extended their life somewhat.

Any kind of rubber seal that you could create, would probably not last, "Till the water gets hot". The tailgate should lap over, or cap over the body opening by about 5/8 of an in. on each side. Are you having to deal with a gap on the bottom as well? The gizmo above the gate latch appears to function as a chain hook, as well as a guide for the gate. Is the body that flexible? Any thing you do to the gate to correct the gap will probably necessitate moving the chain hook to the side of the body, and modifying and rehanging the tailgate. As a temporary repair you might consider welding a 1/2 X 1 in strip inside the body, against the gate, then capping over it with a 1/4 by 4 in. strip to taper the inside of the body to the gate.

You might ought to check with the patent office first. I think someone may have come up with the idea before, and called it snake oil. It is not really clear to me, if it attracted snakes, or if they just added a snake to each barrel before shipment. You might also check with the copyright office before calling yourself Snake oil salesman Randy, as I believe the term has also been used before. Except for legal ramifications it is actually a wonderful idea. Have you considered pre loading the trailer with empty barrels before an oil storm. Empty barrels are a lot easier to handle.

No need to be confused, Tom. A 9 over is over driven in the front box at .73. The 13 over is a 9 speed direct which is over driven in the rear box at .87. When you combine the two you end up over driving an overdrive. You are absolutely correct in thinking that it makes little or no sense. Keep in mind however that at the time this was sort of popular. 9 speed overdrives were rare, if not readily available. Also you could not buy a .336 rear or find a .355 that you could buy. Most used trucks that anyone could afford, were set up with leasing company specs, a 290 or 350 Cummins, with a 9 speed direct and .370 rears. Dependable, but slow. If you were going to make 36 or 37 trips from the east coast to California, and back, during produce season, you needed a horse of a different color. I have run 1500 miles in California, just picking up my return load. 8 or 10 pick ups were not uncommon. A good hot rod transmission then was the 9558LL. Easy to work on, with big spur cut gears, but rough on it's small counter shaft bearings, with no oil cooler. There is better equipment, more readily available now.

I can honestly do about anything necessary with any Eaton Fuller transmission, reason being that I have had to. A triple counter shaft Mack is a different story however, because I haven't had to. I really like the 12 speed in my RS, but it seems to be a direct drive. I believe it would actually climb a tree, especially in deep reduction reverse. With tall rubber and a .450 gear about 58 to 60 is the top speed. I think you may have touched on it before, but what would be involved in over driving the 12 speed, and what ratio would you end up with.

Yep, If you had a horse that could pull it, you could set your hair on fire.

A basic fuller 9 speed i s 1 to 1 or a direct drive transmission. To achieve or create an overdrive from such a unit, Fuller swapped positions of the 4th and 5th speed gears, on both counter shafts. This also necessitated changing 4th and 5th on the main shaft. This was not as simple They had to broach a new head gear, which is now 4th instead of 5th, and a new 4th which is now 5th. Sound complicated? It is necessary to get the teeth count right. This gave us the "up against the dash" high gear, and odd ball shift pattern, which some people have trouble with. To correct some of the confusion Fuller created the RTX shifter plate with extra rails to get the shift pattern back like it was A 13 over Fuller on the other hand is over driven in the rear box, and consists of a 9 speed direct or 1 to 1 front box and a .87 overdrive rear box. In my time frame, any time someone wanted a double thirteen, a 4.33 final drive was usually the gear of choice. Everybody always wanted tall rubber, and everyone had to have a horse instead of a Shetland pony.

There are several programs available on line, to calculate road speed. A 13 speed overdrive fuller is about a .87. By adding this rear gear box, along with its auxillary drive gear, to the .73 9 over, you compound the overdrive, to create a 13 double over. When you couple this to a .386 final drive, with tall rubber, you could likely set your hair on fire. You will have to re do your math, I woke up with a head ache. James

If your wife can handle the transmission, it would take about 30 seconds to explain how to use the 2 speed. If you don't like getting passed, let her drive the slow truck.

It is not a big thing to change the final drive ratio by changing only the Bull Gear and cross shaft. But you still need a gear chart to see what Bull Gear and cross shaft will work with the existing ring and pinion. It may be that you could only go deeper, in which case you might change the ring and pinion and leave the Bull Gear and cross shaft alone. Or, to get the final drive ratio that you want, you might have to change them all. In any event you still need to know how to get from where you are, to where you want to go. To do that you need access to a gear chart. Another consideration is how the proposed change will affect the driveability.

This is like one of Paul Harvey's story's, and I too would like to hear the rest of it. Someone somewhere has a chart to tell what will work with what. The place to start is with which or what series differential and which final drive ratio you presently have, and what final drive ratio you are looking for. It's not exactly like choosing a shirt to match your pants, but it is possible to mix gear sets. Keep in mind that higher numbers are lower gears.

280 thousand should not be the normal life of a steering gear. Before attempting an adjustment make sure that the steering gear is centered, and is actually on the center point. Speaking strictly from a liability standpoint, a $500 to $600 rebuilt steering gear is a lot cheaper than a lawsuit.

The best solution in this case, is to enlist the aid of a neighborhood 5 year old. It works for me every time.

With the increasing price of steel, I save every usable piece, because I would rather build something out of material that I have on hand. Several years ago, when having come face to face with the task of mounting 8 new drive tires, I made my own tank with all new stuff from the local hardware store. A new 10 gal. tank, a piece of 2 in. black pipe and a new gate valve were about $55. I still remember one of the last times that I used ether. I remember standing with my eyelashes, eyebrows, and all the hair on both forearm's singed off, laughing and saying thank you Jesus, I am still alive and I can still see.