theakerstwo

I have a freind which has broken same stud maybe 4 times on a front wheel so same thing here if its on same hole ever time then its not the way it is installed so i myself would do as been stated use the fiber spacer or replace the hub.My freind has not found a hub yet because we think the axle is from a B 81.

I started to work on them in 65 or 66 but dont own any.

No it is nThe yoke is not in the cebterot straight but then most mack drive lines do run to the left side.The front rear yoke is off set to one side.

No they are not. The 2100 is on a sloping angle were the older trans is straight up and down far as the mounting pad.

Nobama ant going to stand for that much longer.

Try PAI

Rob the engine # is a 8 digit # at the rear on a later engine but rear below the heads of the block and give to me and i have cummins quick ser here so i can get the CPL # for you and HP. glenn

You would have to do like mack did build all of the brakets to make it work.The steering box would have to be mounted at the rear.But with some fab work it would work cause both have the wide frame at the front.The rad would have to be used from a B model.I have seen a B model installed on a freight liner frame but the rad and its support was altered to go down inside of the narrow frame.And the steer box was used on the out side.I have always wanted to do a B 75 that way.

I think your right but now some of that is not taught in school like it was some years ago.

If there is water in the fuel it would be missing other things but you can drin the fuel filter to check. Sounds like it may be lossing its fuel prime. First thing to do is find the elbo fitting on top of the gear pump which is restricted check valve and a quick check can be made. Remove the elbo and rap your lips alrond it and see if you can blow either way thru it.If you can replace it. If ok then move on and put a hose in a bucket of fuel and start it and let it set over night in the fuel and start again to see if its solid. If not then check for sucking airby making you a simple clear plastic clear tube. Use part of a # 10 swiel and clamp a clear hose that you can get at the lunmber yard on the swivel and install in line at the fuel pump on the suppy. Smear some luber plate grease on the week hole on the front drive shaft housing and some fuel inside of tach drive. With the engine running maybe 1000 rpm watch for bubbles thru the clear supply hose and if some repair. Also With engine running same way bend the clear hose over trying to cut the supply off for the pump.Watch the fuel in the tach and id it drops down then replace the tach drive and seals. If the grease is sucked in the front cover then replace the front seal.Also make sure it is not low voltage to the shut down switch by screwing the manual screw and see if it starts better. glenn

We all need one of them.

When new they had a i think stainlees tag on it some were.

Friday i saw a superliner that broke the right side tie rod arm at the spindle.He had been running on the big road and had pulled over tro wait for another driver and then he starts to pull out and snap.It was a 82 year so laot of dump truck miles on it. Now i have started to think about mine and i also run 315 size tires which makes it more likely to happen to me. What i would like is to go to a duel steer box system.Mine is a RW613 with a 12000 lb axle. Has any one ever seen a superliner 2 with duel steering ?And if so will i have to go to a 20000 lb axle? I dont need to larger axle because i dont run that heavy on the front and dont need the added weight. What do you guys think?

Our tow drivers dont drop enough drive lines. You dont pull one axle on a mack rears and tow it like you would a rockwell or eaton rears.And then when they pull a drive line they will always pull the slip apart. That would be ok if the new drive shafts had a timing mark on them like the older spicer. Now you have a 50/50 change of having to pay down the road to pull the slip and turn it a half round because some of them will virbrate.

Thanks for another laugh

Rob here at Tulsa auto spring we can get almost all of those drag link rubber boots.Dont know if your clost to a store that does springs and frame work or not but they should things like that in stock.

Here is what i have did for years and have tryed to get the younger guys to do but seems to be too much trouble. Before you pull a drive line down use a spray paint can and spray a red streak down the two joint that your pulling if a two peice or pulling the slip from a single peice drive line. Then its no problem to put it back same way it came down. If he didnt have a virbration when he came in he should not have one when he leaves.

What he said then you can rule out the fuel pressure problem and air in fuel then move on to maybe bad injectors or something else.

I have one on my B61 and like it.If set up proper they are ok but can use too much air when in a high usage deal.When you use it awhile you learn to save the air by not making a lot of fast turns before the air can recover. One thing that can give a probvlem and some dont know it and that is the control valve that you weld in the drag link.It has to be speced for the weight of the front axle. The valve can be had with a light or heavy spring inside of it. That means buying the kit that is set up for that axle or the weight of the truck.That will make it too easy or not easy enought to turn.In the later sixties and eary 70s i and most all mechancis have install alot of them.I think a extra air tank would help them.

If it is a robert Bosch the barrels can be turned by loosen the two mounting bolt and twisting. That is the way they are calibrated to each other. But i can asure you if the rack is that tight you do not want to try and start it. So as Rob has stated get to the rebuilder.

I remenber the B75 and B73 with alummin hoods but some with steel.

Rob i think that is the guys that work there have a bad day or not knowing what they are doing. The napa stores here is total differnt.They only have hi/school kids working here at our town but most of them are nice kids just trying to get a start.One of them run ever time he sees me cause i make fun of the large black buttons he has in his ears for rings.

I would think it would be for the renault engine because i only see 4 cam brg jounerals on it. A 673 or E7 would have 6 brgs.

What i would do is check the rear of the trans and see if there is two VSS on it. If so one is for speedometer and other for ECM. If the ECM dont see VSS signal it will be derated.

Like maybe ever 70 times of rotation and they may line up again.I have never seen a trans that would vibrate unless it has a bent or twisted out out shaft. Maybe make a noise but a viabration is not a noise.I have done geras for many years and think about it in a trans there would have to be something out of balance to vibrate. Noise is very common in a gear box of any kind.As for a virbarion look at drive line problems and the u/joint working angles and that problem is connected to ride height. The ride height is very important. It changes the u/joint angles and this can cause a virbration. I have seen many noise problems and driver think it was a virbration.A vibration you feel and a noise you hear with your ears.