theakerstwo

I started in 1965 so i still think of those trucks and alot of them in the later 50s were made in the 50s.

But i just turned 77 years old so i have a excuse.

If the flywheel he used is a aftermarket it may be like one i used and it is made for both engines.It has the missing tooth and the six little slots in the flywheel and which a portion of the slot goes over into the ring gear.I had a ring gear slip about 1/2 inch on my E7.

I just found some old spiders from a 72 freightliner which has metal bushings.I have forgot so much.

plastic is all you can find now.And i have not seen the metal bushing my self.

Thats right Joey

Also on the econvance there is a oil drain back hole in the bottom of the block that you dont want to get restricted or closed off.

that may work.Also if you go to cummins and buy the timing plug or fork that the 5.9 p pump uses it may be 100 bucks but cheaper than a A/B light.The 5.9 timing tool is a plactic fork that will slide over the pump timing spade and will center the timing spade in the window of the pump.I think the p pump came on the dodge engine first 1990.

You can but your only guessing what the timing will be.I have be told and think so my self that the timing dont need to be advanced more than 2 drgrees above specs.

I have seen noise caused by mismatched tires on a mack rears.I always said dont let the tires be more than a 3/4 inche tall from smallest to largest and the peanuts will last for ever.This noise in most cases will be found as a knock at slow speeds.

To ckeck the grease level use the plug on the rear of the bowl or load housing.The other two plugs are only to fill those compartments after a grease change.The gears throwing oil up will keep the compartments filled.

If the meter did go to zero at one time but will not now then that means some relay is staying on and maybe other things also so it would run battery down then.

Some trucks had the voltmeter working all time. And that is ok because it will not discharge your battery.

I got some of them only i have a shut off valve on mine cause here in my shop my air is set at 160 psi.

I have run a weld bead up and down maybe two or three of them to shrink the liner.And dont forget to cover the crank.

I have installed alot of dry liners and i have used dry ice and also liquid propane but i always understood they were .0005 press fit and have never had a problem getting them in.I always hone the block to clean up and use a tool made from flat plate to drive in.Back in the 60s we had troublem with liners scoring and some one found that they were installing at .002 press fit.Our forman told us to use the .0005 and i did not see any more problems after that.The only reason for a press fit is for heat transfere cause they sure cant get out.

We still need to remember some teaching of the Lords about revenge.He say revenge is not ours but his.God knew we would try to make some one pay for their faults but then we could make a mistake or worst not make them pay enough.God has a plan for them and when he does something he does it right.We all know some one thats not going to like their here after.So hang in there.God never fails.

And the very existance of a pre-chamber in a cylinder head makes it asymmetrical. As a result about every head off a Lanova is cracked. And quite a seldom case for END or Maxidyne/Econodyne. Newer designs and better metal may play into that also.I have seen a Lanova engine maybe in 1965 here but i did no work on it.If you was around early cat engines you know they had alot of crack head on the 1693 which was a per combustion design.My thinking was there was alot of fire in the chamber before it was exhasted and some of it was in the prechamber not producting downward energy.A pryometer may have gone off it scale from the heat were as on a single chamber the moment the fire starts it turned into doward movement of energy.

When the N14 cummins came out drivers could not let their self pull the rpm down on that engine like should have been untill you tear one down and show them the difference between a N14 and NTC.Then they understand how they can take lower rpms.The crank and rods and wrist pins are so much robust than a NTC.Plus the timing is jerked down slower at that condistion.

When you say Thermodyne then the old thermodyne which was 673T that had a different crank and also did not have piston coolers then no it could not take the load that the maxidyne did.Two different engines.But thermodyne also was into the later ENDT 673 which was same block and pistons with a big boy crank and rods with piston cooler and more and bigger head bolt.This engine would take the torque if it had the fire ring head gasket and the maxjdyne governor.The older thermodyne would brake a crank if you pulled them down to 1100 if they had the pump to fuel like a maxidyne.Their timing was much faster that a maxidyne also.The ENDT 673 B and C and the maxidyne also had a larger wrist pin.The rods were much thicker.

Same thing is still happening today, with cars and pickups getting more and more gears. The most efficient, and least polluting engine is one that runs at a constant RPM, right in the "sweet spot". I have never stop to think about this but is so true.My wifes ford and its a light weight car has a 6 speed trans in it.

Time will tell.

I dont got no shot myself

I like the way the old 864 and 865 was built for as the weep hole that was in the block near the liner o/rings.There was a weep hole between the top o/ring and next o/ring to drain any leakage pass the top o/ring.This would drain coolant to the outside of the block.

dont expect much from them.I have always said on a mack you have as much braking power if you roll the windows up on both doors and open them.But if you have power lost then get some one to go back thru the over head.