theakerstwo

As for as brake cams you would be surpriced what you can get from a after market supply. You have to measure ever thing on the cam just like you would need if you was to have a machine shop build it for you.They have a chart to go to with the info.I have to do that on my truck. Daton wheels and i want to go to the exstended service shoes which require a thiner cam.

Yes Rob in most of the trucks i work on the engine fan should have engaged before 300 psi and the pressure has started down.If its at a 900 rpm idle and the fan cant keep the pressure under 275 or 300 its got problems.

Yes Rob in most of the trucks i work on the engine fan should have engaged before 300 psi and the pressure has started down.If its at a 900 rpm idle and the fan cant keep the pressure under 275 or 300 its got problems.

I charge them till the comp locks then let just enough off so comp will turn again. Well you would be supriced at how many guys think that is ok. Ever one has there way of charging them. There is no way of telling what pressure it will have but when you do them ever day you have a good ideal if its in range. We always put a charge in the system that is weighted and in specs of the factory. If its a system like is in my old truck thats been reinvented then i will charge it till gauges look good and then start to go up a little at a time till the temp starts to drop.Its over charged then and will burn the belt fast. This may take a hr to but if its on your own labor is cheaper.

Well sounds like the new Macks is still a work truck.

Also if the trans is setting with front shaft lower than the grease it will leak thru the front on a new trans.It only seals with left hand threads in the front cover against the shaft.

Flat spots

Get better hearing aids

This noise in the dash reminds of something i have not tought of in 30 years.In the late sixtys i worked at the freightliner dealer here and one night i go on a service call in the shop pick up. Its a jeep pick up. The speed o meter had been making a noise for some time but that night just as i go down the st and over the RR tracks the a speed o made a awfull noise and i look down and in front of me the speedometer and half of the dash goes down to the floor and hits my feet. This is one of those flat dashes but as it does it all of the dash lights go out and at the same time the trans starts to make a noise. I stop and gets my light out and found the trans tail shaft had locked to the drive shaft and broke off and wound the speedometer cable up around it like a winch pulling the speedometer head down to the floor.We drag it back to the shop and it looked like the trans had not had oil in it for a year. So watch out for the noises in the dash.

my look at of hot fuel is there is more BTUs in a gallon of cold fuel than there is in a gallon of hot fuel. Other wise the temp of the fuel would not hurt any thing.

Sounds easy to me maybe i can do one some day.

Rob if the clutch is adjusted right the brake will last as long as the clutch and longer than the two peice that dont have a slip spring in it.The reason the brake disc fails is the pressure plate is not adjust right. The throw out brg collar is hitting the clutch brake before the pressure plat is releasing the clutch disc.Adjust the pressure plat right and then adjust the linbkage last. Then for the rest of the life of the cltch leave the linkage adjuster along and adjust only the pressure plate.

pull your belts and run it some.

My 2 cents ant worth nothen but to me but here goes. I dont care if you get a ta or not but dont use them cheap guys that work out of their van behind a truck stop.They only have one needle and its borrowed form the day shift.A freind of mine had a peg leg and he had one put on it and its almost rotted off.He said the man give them a dicount when in a group.Something to think about.It scraces me just thinking about it.

I wish i had a good jack like yours. mine is a 1973 year and worn out. I did buy me some of those brakets like you have on the top of your jack.I have a mack trans that will have to come out with in the year.

The 10 speed was a R96 if direct and a R960 if o/d. The o/d was same as direct al but the 1st gear had been taken out and a o/d gear put in its place.!st position was 5 gear. I say same but the other gears may have been a different ratio than the direct gears.The R46 was the small gas burn trans and was a 8 speed.But had the hi/low shifter cylinder hanging on the out side pushing a lever.

When a brg goes bad it will develope blue smoke from burning oil and some may think its blow/by.Those old engine was none to have some cracks in the tops when the fuel is set up just a bit.The non turbo engine was a higher compression piston and you could set the fuel up 2 turns and crack piston before their time was up.The non turbo engine was timed around 28 degrees and then the sancrovace would add another 8 to 13 degrees to that.Also to look for coolant in the oil. That will cause a brg failure as well as steam out the vent tube cause a blow/by efect.

two magnets can be felt thru the bottom pto mount and the rear magnet is in the rear box.It is normal to find a hi mileage trans with a lot of metal filings but not cuttings.Wear frome teeth but is like a unshaved old man.

By it being quiter in the higher gears sounds as if the front counter shaft rear brgs could be lose.But these gears like ist and secnod are small straight cut on the counter shaft and they were some more noise than the 4 and 5 gears.You can pull the bottom pto cover and see almost all of the gears and feel the rear lower counter shaft gears for sharp edges.Us and good light and if the gears are still good they will have traces of mill cuts on the contact side of the teeth. A mirrow finish is signs of many miles and also can be noise.

Rob the lack of cutting in the oil is because there is three magnets in the bottom of the trans.If it got a noise in o/d only that is normal to some degree.I mean when new. I grew up with them and back then trucks were noisey and it was not to bad but as trucks get quiter the trans sound is more pronounts now.I have replaced the o/d drive and driven gears in them and found it does not help.The isolator installed on the shifter stick did some help.

But it will be a larger o/d than .73 or .74 I am thinking it is like .61 The real factory rto 12510 is a smaller o/d because it has all differnt gears up front or least the front 4 sets are different than a home made o/d 10 speed.I have made many but guys end up not liking them cause they had a big split from 9 to 10.He can also buy a back box kit that will go on the RTO12513 that will be quite. It is same as a RTO 14613.The kit will be a rear box complete with a new aux drive gear.

I my self are glad its dried up some but i saw a lizard caring a pale of water across the road.We get sand from the Ark river and its been so low no sand is being mined.

Depends on which 10 speed. One will have a hi low gear and the other will have a low low gear. Most 9 speed is lower first gear than the 10.

That is good advice. We had to replace the seals for awhile on one brand of compressors when under warranty. It did not make sence because if you dont have good luck the first time the cost of doing it over is a no win deal.It got to were the complete compressor was replaced no matter how many miles was on it.