theakerstwo

Ok then you know one is supply so take the other one by one hand a run you hand down it and then trace it to were it goes and tell us what it looks like were it goes.Could be a spitter valve on the bottom of a air tank.

Let me say something may help you here. If boost is only problem i would say many things may be problem other than turbo.A couple common problems with low boost is throdle may not be getting full throdle and that means your foot ant mashing your motor down. Another common thing is boost leaks at air/air cooler and that could be from air piping hoses or the cooler its self leaking.Another thing is fuel problem cause it takes fuel to get boost.

One should be air supply and the other will go to the air drier as a signal line.

What about a U model.

The spring shop here cuts the old u/bolts on all springs.And on the pad boxes bolts they are also replaced with new every time they are taken down. I guess it is a libilty thing with bolts.I know with freightliner only factory replacement bolts are only used in frames and things like that.

Does anyone know if you can get the offset lower pads in urathane?I got some lower pads that was after market rubber and did not last one year. They give me new ones of the same brand and they strech in a turn bad.

This is so true. Macks dont make much power with the jake or dnyotard compared to any of the big bores.

I saw a simple bumper sticker last week that read re elect non.

Let me tell you what the manual tells about test of the clutch. With the cardboard with the hole in it and that should be on the front of the rad and the 4" hole should come out in front of the temp sensor which is in the middle of the clutch.Run untill the clutch can be hear engaged and dont let it over heat. When the clutch is engaged to max it should be running 80% of the pulley speed. Check this with a photo cell tackometer and a reflector tape on the pulley and a reflector tape on the fan.If it does not engage and the heat gage has been tested and still heats then use a temp gun and check the top rad hoses to see if you have a flow of coolant that matches the temp in the block. If not then check the water pump pressure at a port below the termostats.I dont know what pressure it should be but will be more than 15 maybe 20psi.If not then check water pump.This pressure test is done at rated top rpm.Check for compression in coolant i use a clear pop boddle and fill with water and stick the rad over flow neck hose down in it and withe engine hot then you should have no bubbles.You will have some bubbles till the engine gets hot for a while.A over fueled engine driven by some one that can not handle the hot engine can blow a head gasket or crack a head or liner.

I can tell you some about appointments. Most guys that want a appoinment for saving some time but who out there is going to keep the appoinment if a good load comes up and the truck will run one more trip or what if his wife tells him she has other plans. I have seen it many times so appointments in most cases are a joke. A joke on both sides.No shop is going to keep a slut open not knowing if you will come or not so they take what comes in to keep from paying help to wait and see if you come in.A doctor can do that but a shop can if all other jobs go as planed.

Nothen wrong with it except it ant mine.

I will add to what Rob said that if you maniflux the spindle that may also tell you what needs to be done with it. I have maniflux alot of spindles and like one front end guy said to me only a fool would use a known crack spindle or axle.I started maxifluxing spindles years ago when doing king pins and replace some but most owners cant under stand the danger of this. So we always put on the invoice and had the driver or owner to sign if he wanted a bad spindle under him.This day and time guys will do any thing for money including suing your ass for nothen when its their own fault.One o/o sued freighliner for letting him make a stupid decision to up rate his power over the trans rating.His defents was they should have known that he did not know what he was asking.This did go to court but was over turned in freightliners fa.vor

I have worked on engines since the jake started and i have seen and corected the fact that some guys have tighen the jake lash up and that is only a story they hear on the radio. Like been stated be carefull with the lash and dont experment withe the lash setting. Here is a look at why your tighter than factory lash setting will not help but be some less than usefull.When you set lash closer than it should be that makes the valve start to open faster due to the timing efect on lesser lash. Of if the valve opens faster now or another way of looking at it the piston will be at a lower postion in the hole than normal so that means the air being compressed to use as a compression brake is not compressed as much as if the piston was alowed to come on up at a normal postion.The pop off air pressure is not as much now is another way of looking at it.If you put more lash in the jake it would let the piston be at a higher postion in the hole and would be a better brake but dont you know jake brake has tested this and found the best lash for that brake. They have all to lose and nothen to gain by printing the incorrect lash info.I have hear this story since the early 60s and if dont help to try and change what has been tested.When you play with the jake lash you stand a change of having valve to piston contact if another problem was to happen.I also have found there is not any difference in the braking power in the two brake systems. If you have all of the parts for the dynatard and want to sell them contact me.

You guys need to check into getting some help.

In 1963 you would find very few trucks using a cat engine if any.There was one here older than that that was ordered by the cat dealer and it may have been a special order. The same dealer here had leter a freight liner maybe a 64 or 65 that was the first cab over from ca. that was built with a 1693 in it.The dog house was modifided to use the engine at the factory.

So many times the cylinders are the problem instead of the pump. If you are pushing fluid from under of a piston on the cyl and it leaks pass the piston it will be hard to pump up. Not hard to pump but it will be slow because it is leaking as fast as you pump it. And when you stop pumping it goes down. So to test take the return line and it should be the top line off and then pump and if the fluid id pumping out of the fitting at the top of the cyl then you know it is coming pass the piston rings. So then pull down and repair the cyl. Next thing is how do you get cab up to remove cyl. Simple drive under a sky lift and raise cab up from the rear then remove the cylnders.Be very carefull when under a CAB. use a extra prop to hold cab up

Rob when you set the screw cap on the bottom dont take all of the slake out. Tighten up good and back off a few maybe .005 and use a feel gauge between the axle and spindle.This will keep axle and spindle from draging together.

I have seen them left out but compressor dont last long.Like 5 mins.

Go tubless and you will be able to get tires any were you want. I have been using as well as a few others at work some winglong tires with good results. glenn

The 8.2 does not have a air box so it dont have the drain tubes like he was speaking of. To find the fuel in the oil you need to put dye in the fuel and run then pull valve covers and use black light. Other wise it is in most cases hard to find. Look at it this way a drop of fuel ever 5 min is not bad enough to see dripping but bad enough in a day of running to delute the oil and do damage to the brgs.Another common place for the fuel to get in the oil is the fuel pump seal. When some one uses a hand pump to build pressure from the primary filter to get fuel to the pump this can happen if too much pressure is applied.I have seen it many times.I saw it happen two times in one day to the same truck.All so the injectors can leak from inside plus the o/rings on the injector to the head.

Also dont forget a stuck rack can keep it from starting.In that case you dont want it started.

You need to get to a dealer or some one with a reader and read the ecm for codes and then let them tell you what they mean. Other wise ne one can do nothen but guess. The ecm will leave a code telling what electrial problem if any that has happen in the past and then you can go on to the fuel system after that. But who ever works on it will have to test or otherwise you will be throwing parts at it.Can i have your old selnold?

Yes he may have been reading in the eaton lit about them and i think they do mention lock out but as i was speaking of.Lock ot switch is for keeping them i9n same range when inter locked together.I like the set up but then the road ranger trans put them in the past.We had a carrier out of Dallas that ran all 3 speed rears. Even when the 13 speed was on the scene. Dont know why but they like them.

Not too many years ago it was common for some guys to install a two speed rear in the rear housingand use it when not wanting to drop too many RPM and shift it to low.This was ok if used sparingly. If used to much it would eat the power divider because the newer power divider is not made to divide that much difference in ratios of the two rears.I think they ended up with something like a 200 RPM split.I do not think it would be a good ideal but was common to do so.That was a was of haveing a cheap 13 speed.

Basily they are a two pair of two speed rears. But unlike todays eaton power divider the older power divider did have a rubber wiper pad to wipe the oil from the ring gear as it turned and would collect the oil up high and run oil into the top of the spider assembley to keep cool and lubed.Todays two speed can not be used as a three speed set up because the power divider will not lub the spider like the three speed did.This set up was at one time very common. Loike been said low range both it low and intermedit range one is in low and one in hi and it dont matter which one is were and in hi range both are in hi range.There will be a switch on the power divider to lock out the shifter to were if the power divider is lock for in the mud then it can not be shifted into nothen but high range on both rears.This is called lock out. That way if one was in low and the other in hi and the inter lock was engaged then you would have two different ratio rears pulling against each other.