theakerstwo

Just a quick tought here but if it has air ride cab and no free travel in the throdle linkage it could be gaining the movement of the air bag airing up and mashing down on your gas.

You are right that is not a luberfiner but a full flow by/pass.Two different lub system and engines.

I cut my teeth on those engines and trucks. First you do not want to change the base plate or regulator valve body that bolts to the block with 4 bolts. Or at lest back to the plate that uses two small oil lines. Your engine will use a set up of two screw on full flow oil filters or a set up of two full flow and one partial/flow by/pass filter.If you change to a single remote lubfiner which the older 673 used before the full flow and that was a 500 luber finer then you will have brg damage real fast. I have never been around the B75 with the spin on filter install so cant help there. I have a B61 with the two full flow screw on on it and it is not a problem for the ssteer box.If you have a three filter set up and it is in the way of the steer box then look into the two filter set up with the base pressure regulator block to go with it.The thrird filter may be the problem with your steer box. The two filter set up looks like the three filter set up all but the middle out side filter is taken off. It is the by/pass filter.

Rob back in the 70s a deal like that came up in the area here and a guy had a 1000 watt box on his CB in his pickup that he would talk to the man that lived next door on his TV.He would let a good program come on then he would go out and call his freind up on the CB and call him some bad names. He said that the TV would just double up when he keyed the mic.

Sounds like you need some driving lights.I am to scared of the dark.This keeps up the Lord is going to reach over and tap you on the arm and say come on son its time to go home.

For many years the mack # was a 236GB311A. This is the filter that uses a small oil line and 2 large oil lines at the bottom. This is a full flow/ partial/flow by/pass.Two filter in one.This is used with the engine that uses a oil cooler.

Rob for many years the mack trans used same as the rear end as long as you used a GL5 grease. I would not use the other like a 85/140 in it. It needs the GL5 because the gears are a helix cut meaning they are sliding on each other. This means they need a extrem pressure lub.I would not use a 50w motor oil. That is ok for a straight cut gear.I know mack did not use the mineral oil in their trans. But fuller did at one time but there was too many guys that would mix rear end gears with the mineral oil and like done said i have opened up trans that had the lub mix and there was a bed of tar looking stuff with a place that the gears had spung out and the grease would have to be cut out.

Another thing to check and i have seen this on cats in most cases but can happen to a mack.Check when running the return line at the tank and make sure it is returning. The deal is if it can not return it can build up air in the galley of the fuel pump and stall just like it was sucking air. All fuel injectors will to some degree pass some compression back into the return fuel to the tank. But on that system there the return from the injectors is after the pressure ruglator valve so the only way air can get back to the pump is if a injector is not checking compression and the deliver valves in the top of the pumps are not holding and ten it can build up. Maybe not but i would check it.The sight glass that was spoke of is a must.

It has got to were the tool guys like snapon and mac or maco has a bit of trouble keeping tool men in busness very long. Last month i had serval air tools that neeeded to go to snapon for repairs so i found a salesman and told him i would be bring him some tools over . The next week he went out of business so i guess i am luckey i did not get in a hurry and give him about 5 tools to send in.

That is what i would do.Mt truck is alot longer than that and i dont have any trouble with the turning.

The engine looks to have too much of a angle down in the rear.

At work i had a good set of Mac shockets that went to 2 5/8 impack short and some deep was bought as needed and a 2 3/4 for eaton yoke nuts.But here at home i had same size but a china made shocket.They will work when ever one alround ant using them ever day.For wheel lug nuts good with 1".Here we have two tool sales stores that sell elcheapo tools that i used at home and got by with them but when using them on the job i want somthing that will be replaced with out having to mdrive across town ever week and then find out they dont have any in stock.

My guns have killed less people than Ted Kennedy's car! I sure like that. Short but true.

The pump shop would be a good place to get the coppers and also mack would have them to. On a make injector antiseize is used often and i also used it on the little DT IHC engines to. But nothen will help if the injector cooper leaks compression and let go for a while. I have taken the injectors out of make engines and pull the injector tube out of the head.Also make sure what copper you use is the proper thickness.

But dont forget were the power to the pump is coming from. The pump[ is in most cases driven of of a acc drive that is good for maybe 25 hp and a alter is not putting out that kind of power.You can transfere power thru electric but you have to be able to start out with enough power.

Grant read my first post over again. I would not put you on because i may not have said this but i have seen this tryed many times but same said again there is not enough power in a alternator to push that much air even if you had a electric manifiying mutiplex torque mutiplyer connected to your alternator and hot rod electric motors turning the fans with it in overdrive.The reason some cars and pickups can get by with this is it ant tied down to a loaded trailer pulling all it can for hours ever day in all kinds of hot air. A car may pull hard for a short time but will have to slack up on power before long or it would be running 100 mph. A truck has to be able to pull full hp at slow speeds some times at long peiors of time with out the fear of burning up a engine due to some exsperment that we have hear that works but has never been proved on a large truck.It could work on a top or hobby truck.

If this truck is going to work then forget the electric fan. I have for many years seen this tryed and it just will not get engough air flow to cool a working engine. I have seen guys come in with there engine damaged and still say they will keep the electric fan.Also if it was a workable ideal i think the manufactors would catch on to this ideal because it would be simple to use electric fans if it was enough air flow.The reason it robs power from the engine is because it takes a lot of power to move that much air.To be able to cool with electric it would take a very big alternator and electric motor. You hear nothen is free and goes true with cooling your engine. This is a good ideal but it just will not work.You need to stand close to a truck that is being run on the dyno on a hot day and see how much air is blowing across the fan. Then get around a electric fan some one has riged up and compare.

You need to take it to mack and get the ecm read and it will tell you the reason it sees a shut down need.

You forgot to tell us some important info but will try to help.If this is a vickors pump and the way to tell is a tag stating the model and make but will be blue in color.The center or cartiage will have the half of a arrow modled on it and that is the direction. Now the way you tell which way the engine turns is get some one to turn the engine when you watch the drive that turns the pump.Also be carefull and not dump the vans out of the rotor in the cartiage. If you do just thro away the pump and get a new one.There is a seal in front that you may want to replace when you have it apart.

Some of them are and some of them ant. I cant tell you any more than that and that strained me to think of that. If you have the broken peice that is broken then it can be welded as good as it was when it was new. glenn

Yes let it be. It ant leaking yet.

If the engine has 9/16 studs then it will be torqued to 150 ftlbs.The 18 5/8 studs was at 175 in their day but could have been updated due to newer gaskets.Some of the ENDt 673 a b or c engine did not have fire rins from the factory but could have been updated to the maxidyne gasket that has the fire ring.

If you ant a diesel mechanic then at least get a mechanic to help. When you make a mastake in this engine it can mean a new engine some times. I can think of a lot of things a manual can not learn you on a one time over haul.I would try to find a mack dealer mechanic to do it on the side if you have a place and air for him to work.I would exspect it would cost you maybe 750 or 1000.00 for a side job but may be worth it in down time and the cost of a mishap.

The endt673 with 18 5/8 studs will torque to 175 ft lbs with a mack gasket unless it has been up date in the past years. A after market gasket may require a different torque.A E6 is a long was from a endt673.The later endt673b or c will have 20 bolts and a different torque.But different engine.

Too bad it didnt happen.