theakerstwo

I dont think a dyno will be any help to you but maybe to them for 250.00 but it will not tell them much. I most cases when it howls on a coast the is a ring and pinion noise. If you see mudflaps shacking that will not be from a driveline virbration because if the drive line was vibrating bad enough to shack the truck it ant going to stay under there till you get back to the house.

The last that i used was about 105.00 to fill a eato 13 speed bying by the gallon but on mine it gets 50w motor oil.

Thats what i used maybe for 30 years but i got to using the snapon oil and i asked a snapon rep one day what it is and he said light motor oil so since then what goes in the engines goes in my impac. Cant see any difference in the way they work and dont smell as bad as the marvel or as good which ever. I oil one maybe 5 times a day when using it alot. Air drill motors should get oil ever time you pull the trigger.

To check the hubs and wheels would be easy, just knock out your axles and run the speed up on the drive lines and see if they virbrate. With out the axlesin there you will hear a gear noise because there is no load on the rear end but that is not the same as a virbration. If you have two drive lines going to the reat end behind the last trans then they have to be balanced together and not separate.If you load it and it is quiter with a load than empty then you may have a ujoint angle problem. Some times you can run with out axles in the hubs and set speed where it virbrates the most and hold it there and get under there and with a rag in your hand you can touch the shaft at the front or rear and feel it virbrating and that was you get a ideal which shaft it is in.But so many times guys will bolt up a rear end under a truck not understanding the angles on the drive lines and this is what happens some times. It is very important to get those angles right. Angle of the engine and of the aux trans and the angle on the drive lines and the slack in the slips and the slack in the yoke brgs and yoke nuts will be a factor. A bad gear does not cause a virbration but can cause a noise and some guys get that mixed up. The ideal angle on that set up would be 5degrees on the engine and same on the aux trans and rear end.

http://www2.dana.com/expertforms/depdf.aspx?prod=JOI Here is some info you can read but if it is a virbration and not anoise and there is a difference then you need to check ujoint angles and also there is limit on any drive shaft for the spped of it. The drives shaft will have a limit due to thickness and speed of it and length and the angles on the ujoints so no one can tell you the speed limit untill you check all of those things and then there is a program from http://www.meritorhvs.com/LODSearch.aspx That you can calulate all of this. A noise you dont feel and but hear and some guys get this mixed up. A virbration you feel.Trans will not virbrate unless they have a bent out put shaft. A vibration will losen yoke nuts but lose yoke nuts did noy cause the vibration to start with. If a drive line is set at the proper angles the overspeed would cause a vibration but it is at hi speed just before D day. If that is air ride there is a ride height that is very important. glenn

No not on a engine that old. But it should be. If it ant maybe he can find some of them out of round rings.

He may have broken it taking it off , some guys cant do simple tasks.

No it only has a air/air on it now. glenn

Maxville i think water injection into the intake will be good for cooling but in aviation 3 things that will kill your lift is the three Hs. Hi huminty ,hi alltitude, and hi air intake temps.So i think the hi huminty kills the power and the hi altitude will kill power for lack of ox and the hi temps will kill engine power as well as lest air for wing lift. About 10 years ago cat payed with a fuel that had about 60% water in it but never did hear how it came out and all schools i have been to the instructers never knew about it.

I have a 3/4 snapon the best they make about 5 years ago and the best IR makes and the IR does not eat up the volummin of air the snapon does but is not quit as much torque and the onlt time you will know this is when torquing 3406 mains. The IR will torque up by hammering but snapon will do it be fore you have to hit the brakes. IR has a better one now but i dont need any of them any more.I have old 1"snapon short shaft for trans and rear end work and it is about 25 years old and it still will tighten yoke nuts that need to be 800 ft lb.I have two 1/4" air rachets that are neat but they will not last very long before they need sent in.I dont need them very often and got them mostly because i did have one.

I remember the tip turbin coming out but dont know what year. I think it was the best thing invented for a engine untill chassis air. The 320 is the one that i had for awhile in a hobby truck and it had the air cooled cooler by the tip turbin plus the water cooler in it.Then i mounted a air/air cooler on it and set the fuel out at the same time and the prometer went down alot.

Snapon is a good wrench but it cost more to. I have found thru the years that snapon will stand up the longest and you can turn them in for trade or for repairs.There is many good impac wrenches out there. I have worn out many and started in 65 full time and at that time there was none around here in Tulsa and the next year CP was around but they cost about 60 dollars and no one had 60 dollars. The first one i got it took two of us to be able to pay for it and we would share it. Yes times have changes some.And you stillo hear guys talk about the good old days.The first CP i had was rated at about 100 lbs and now a good snapon will break any head bolt lose on any engine unless it is thread locked like a cummins will do sometimes.We use 185 psi at feightliner and my shop has about 165psi and it is hard on a wrench but if you using one for a living then you need alot of air.

I dont remenber but look on the foot brake valve.

most all comercial truck mechanics us the rotoloc pads but you have to be carefull and slow on alummin and if helps to go back to the old scrapling way of getting the gasket off for awhile and then you learn to like the pads. There is some guys that use the air scrapers but it is not for me. I have used them on the DD housing were no gasket is used with good luck.

may be the back of a F model cab.

For engine and trans and things like that ever one uses the little roto grinding type pads on a adjusttable air grinder but if you dont want the scratch i have used a torch to burn the gasket and then srcape. glenn

A photo i found on large car but i have not seen one before.

You need to admit this guy ant lazy. Maybe he has some bad judgement on what lokes good but he has put some work into that. He just needs some guidence and he could make a hand.

There is more difference than the sleeves. The pistons will be different. The end673 is a olderand different engine completely. It will be a hi/compression piston due to it does not have a turbo. The end673 b and c that i was always around was a turbo engine and that would make a endt673 b or c. The pistons are a lower compression ratio with a larger wrist pin. The sleeves you have will be a maxidyne sleeve which can be used in the engine you have if you get the liner protruion right and cut the rings in the heads for the fire ringes the head gasket use. The endt 673b and c has piston coolers and yours do not.

Old Rob is right again. But this is what is left of a C model but i think same water pump set up. I have not seen one in 30 years and did work on them years ago. I was in a old salvage yard yesterdfay and found a lot of old mack stuff.

Here is a slant engine water pump.

http://diesel.btc.ctc.edu/Brakes/Bendix%20...andbk4_2002.pdf

Rob it will not untill you have some rings cut to drop down into the counter shaft brg bores to press against the brgs on the 9513. That is a common fix tho to do that. we have a trans rebuilder here that i used to by parts from and they would sell you a bell housing from a 9513 which the brgs set flush with the trans case but would cut the bell housing deeper to use with the 125 or 14613 trans that has the counter shaft brgs out futher than flush of the case. Or you could use a 125 or 14613 bell housing with little inserts cut to drop down in the counter shaft brg pocket to press the brg. 7, 8LL, 9,10,13,15, housingwill inter change in the models along as they are for the right clutch push or pull and they are a 9,95, 125,146 series if you use the inset or cut the housing method. One moe thing is a 9513 or 15 or 10 can have a 2" input shaft but most have a 1 3/4" All 125 series will have a 2" and they all can have a push or pull type clutch input shaft.glenn

Nothen wrong with spam and on top of that Obana has been eating it so i will eat more of it my self. glenn