theakerstwo

Paul i am the same way i never knew there was a difference and that looks out of place next to the other cab. glenn

Rob dont you guys have out houses up there?

I may be wrong but i dont remember seeing them from the factory chrome. They may have been i just did not remember. I worked for make the last two years that the B models were in productions but did miss alot of things.

Very same thing. glenn

The exhaust brake that is in the exhaust pipe is better for braking if left off and used to drag behind you when you need to slow down. glenn

When you get it running there is another test you need to do and that is when engine is dead turn on all kights and heater and the unhooh both sets of battiers. Now light go out. Now hook mone set up now battiers should burn. If ok unhook them and hook other set up and lighy should burn. This proves the new switch is not ok. this proves if you can discharge from your battiers you can charge into them if your generator is ok.

I am thinking that you did not get any lines mixed up when you replace the foot valve so the only other thing i can think of and i am only thinking but if this is leaking when your park brakes is released then you may have aparking brake chamber leaking inside but it should exhaust off fromk the relay. The other thing i can think of is if your trailer hand vavle is pulled and then your sliding check valve would be bad or some call it 3 way check valve. Make sure your trailer hoses is not connected to each other at the ends. If the valve on the back of the cab or tractor protection valve was bad then if your red knob was pushed in and the valve was bad it could leak back.

I remember when the old B models had a shut of fuel valve on the inlet line to the inj pump with a cable inside of cab but it can run for a good while on the fuel in the pump after stut off. In other words if it was stuck in full fuel you would nat the least have a heart failure.

I know your right. The easy way to check the rack is to pull the top off of the governor and move by hand. If you dont know what the rack looks like it is the metal rod going into the pump housing and has a link connected to somthing inside of the gover housing. I have freind that has a salavage yard and he has some macks that has set for a few years and somtimes we find one that is stuck . I had one of mine that stuck after about 3 years.

I have a used oil heater and i used 8" wood stove piping to the outside and a T and straight up as hi as i could see. The pipe would rust out about ever year or two from the aicd in the used oil smoke or fumes so two winters ago my son put up a better pipe that will not rush out as fast. We found it in a pipe yard that they sell to oil field engines for exhaust pipe.We made a clean out at the bottom to clean out dead birds. We did use screen wire on the first one but it will rust out fast and this time i said why bother with the wire so we lift a lid and let the dead birds out when needed. The heater will burn about 1.5 gals oil per hr and keeps a shop warm size of 35x40. I have a freind that made a oil heater that is simple. He got a oil hearter gun from a place called lanair in WI. and used a propane bottle about 8 ft long and 4 ft a cross and put the burner in one end of the tank and that end will open up with hinges. The other end he stacked fire brick up so the flame will have somthing to heat against. The piping goes up from the top and he has two wood burning heat exchanger/blowers onit. The tank has 2' flat steel runners welded long ways on the out side to carry the heat off of the tank faster like fines. He heats his shop day and night and it is bigger than mine and it will not burn any more oil than mine. He dont care how much it burns becuse he is ib to used oil recovery.He burns mosty ATF and bad diesel.I burn only oil but it is cheaper than gas. His heater does not rust the exhaust pipe because it is warm all of the time. When i had some trash trucks to work on here we had plenty of oil of all kinds. These heaters will not burn trans or rear end oil because of the sufur build up inside.

I hope that didnt crack the flange on the liners. glenn

Rob the bad thing for me was there is or was a flight service station office there and when the weather goes bad you have to get permission to land if you are VFR because it is now a controled zone untill the weather comes back and i had a VFR flight plane so when we landed i went to the window to close my flight plan and that is when he ask if i saw the bacon . Well they will hold a trial by mail and you can fight or pled stupid which that was what i did and told them that i knew for along time i was supid but was trying to do better. About 3 months latter he said send in your certification for a while untill you learn better but he never did say dont fly. I knew the weather was getting bad but that was fastter than normal. We had found a grass field that i was going to put down if had to and then we found Baldwin field. I was glad cause i didnt want to walk home.

The springs will not make the rattle like the drive lugs being lose in the center plate will that is if it is a 14" clutch. Anf if it is loose drive lugs that still wnt hurt it. On the 14" i file the center dic to were the lugs have some clearance and then i leave th eanti rattle plates out and then they rattle when new but will release as so as you think about it. Dont have that grinding into gear ever time. TYhat drives me mad . If it is a 15.5 then the rattle may be something else. The broken springs is a bad deal and may have beat the engine mounts out.

Rob i have turned the approch light on a few times buit have not had a plane since 93. I got a no no ticket at Baldwin field at Quincy Ill. in about 82 for not getting a special permission to land after the weather has gone south. He said didnt you see the beacan and this was midday and i said yes but did have time to do noting but land .Clouds was down to 200 ft.

And drums and some times wedge brakes did not use a relay on the rear.

That is the later block because the first block had a cast iron tube which was part of the block and it would crack and let oil leak out and there was a tube that could be installed from the top to repair and then the later block had a replaceable tube that come in from the top but never did see one replaced. That may be too old for your mack dealer to help you with but i just dont know who would have a replacement tube and tool for it. That tube transferes oil to the heads that you see. You may need a engine . I would heat that area with a torch some and take a another look and see it it is were the tube come down out of the block but i still dont know were you will find a repair for it.If you find for sure were it is coming from call these guys because they did alot of block repairs but have gone to larger engines but some one there can help you as far as info on the repair method. 918 4461828 http://www.memorialmachine.com/mm/

I have seen them and the old 673 crack between 1 and 2 behind the front side plate at the top of the plate opening almost to high to repair . If it is not too high the use the lock/n/stitch prosess. to repair and that will be all you can do.Dont try to weld it . You will only make more cracks. Some times the head bolt holes will be cracked down but can say i ever saw one leak coolant down. glenn

Rob the B model is #1 with me but the R is for sure the next best looking truck to me and i know almost ever one goes for a peterbilt but i dont. Give me a R 700 and let me do what i want with it. They are a good truck and mack should still be building them. I worked for mack in the mid 60s and two guys order a Fmodel in 65 and run them till the R cam out and both of them traded for a r700 i guess or a wester R with sleepers. I thought that was the best looking truck ever made and still do. Drive one and you are confortable sitting in one and you look good to. A RL came out in 67 if i am right and they was using different engines in them. I remember when CCC used some R 700 cabs here to build trucks and was a good heavy truck. One thing about your R it is going be a sound cab when you get through with it.

If you could post a photo of the pasage that you are talking about it would be better for us to tell were it is coming from.If it is coming from above the cam it may be a headgasket or a crack in the block. I still remember some info on that engine but with out knowing which passage it will be hard. I would pull the rocker and push tubes and look down that way with a good light. If the side plates are leaking oil then it would be a good time to pull them and that way you may see were the leak is coming from. glenn

Did you say this was your soninlaw??

Well who ever you give it to cover up the intake and exhaust maniolds because creatures can crawl inside and you can get moisture in the intake some how no matter what happens .I think it would be a good ideal if a mack engine is to be set up for a few years is to miz some oil with some fuel and use the primer or hand pump if it has one and pump thru the injection pump and then turn over some before covering. This may keep the rack from sticking with the new fuels we have today it is not that had to stick a rack from sitting. glenn

Our spring shop here will replace 1 leaf if the raise is not cracked and 1 leaf replacement is not going to lift it up that much more like a complete stack would on one side. glenn

Rob you may make a hand yet.

I myself saw a truck like that and ndont know if set back or not and it had a oil feild bed on it but only seen it in a add and it was at Enid OKLa. It may have been home made but i thought i saw some in the truck trader one time and i may be wrong also. I also though that the Tulsa dealer years ago sold some to Williams Bros oil that was what i called a RM but they may have been short hood. I know some one that whats one if he can find one. glenn

Guys when you get down in Ark. and listen to the drivers talking about Bill and Hillary they all agree that the way the two met when young was they were datinging the same person.