theakerstwo

But air/ air is much more ever thing. I put air/air on my B61 and so much more to be gained. I had a 320 in my and it did good but in the mountains it would get hot on the exhaust but the air/air fixed that.Also had to end up custom building a larger rad. to get rid of the heat that you would pickup because with the air/air you could stay in it in the mountains longer and then the coolant would get up to 210 after pulling awhile. Putting in a larger rad and raising the cab and a larger fan on and clutch fixed the problem. Raising the cab made the air flow out better behind the engine.

Many times i have seen that happen and most people will change the zert first and you may try that.But some hand grease guns have more pressure than some of the air grease guns.

It is a fan that pushes outside air thru the intercooler to cool the boost air. It is driven by the boost air from the turbo and only a small amount of the boost air is used to turn the tip turbin.

The # is located on front side left looking from front under the spring pad and may be part hard to see but it is stamped on axle.

I dont think it was that hi because the twin was before the single set up came out and most time hp goes up the next year instead going down.

I remember the twin turbo set up but dont remember the hp.

If the brg spung you will have to pull engine down and line bore the main brg bore and then have them polish the crank and clean the block and if it has a oil cooler then replace it. If you dont do that you will have it happen again and i mean before it gets hot. Pull the oil pump apart and check it to.

yes that is a big truck and good luck. I like a mack .Ever one cant drive a mack otherwise who would drive them other things. Most people dont understand the mack and i am talking about the older macks not the new stuff but the truck in general is a goog truck .

Well here is the way i look at that is you have it running so ndont worry about it and i also think that the Lord has to get our attension sometimes and if we want listen one way we may listen another way but any way it may have been aired up and it is not always easy to bleed the air.

That is what i remember hearing also and i remember the old r96 and eary rt series roadranger trans using mineral but dont remember what weight but ever one got away from it because mineral oil and a multigrade grease turns to a hard tare looking grease. I remember seeing it mixed and if let go it would set up and was impossable to drai9n with out puting some fuel in it and runni9ng for a while.

Take to mack dealer.

For a toy truck it may not hurt it but on a hard working truck get some 50w in there but you can drain and then put some diesel in there and run in nutral for a little bit and drain and refill.

The first v8 i think came out in 63 and then the twinturbo was maybe 66 but the Tulsa dealer got one of the first two or maybe they got the first two that was to be had and sold one of then local and dont remember about the other one. That was a big horse in its time.

Other dog is right and on the engine rear seal that is a dust cover or dust seal. The crank has a slinger on it that slings the oil away from the rear and the cover that goes around the crank has a thin grouve that the lead wire in pushed do in and you should roll it in about half way or so and then you push the cover over the crank to fit the lead wire to fit.The trans has to come out to change. The seal does not dry up and get hard over time so i would not change it. If it is leaking then it is leaking because there is too much blow/by in the crankcase and nothing but a overhaul will cure that. The front seal i would change it when it started to leak. It will have a felt type seal in it and maybe a lip seal behind it.

The eaton trans should not ude multigear 85/90 or multigear 85/140 but a 50 w motor oil or aershell in the white can which is airplane engine oil that is mineral oil 50w. a eaton trans has in the past had a materal on the syncronizer that is beleived to be damaged but the multigear oil. The mack trans has a disc plate clutchpac for a snycronizer and untill the snythectic oils came out you could use quote bu mack multigear grease and unless i was in hot country i would use 85/90 and not the 140. the 85/90 is too heavy in a eaton trans also if you are in trhe hot coutry and pulling hard. The oil temp will be higher on that oil than if you had a 50w engine oil in it. I know alot of guys run 85/90 multigear oil in their eaton or roadranger but liston to eaton or go to their website they will ask for snythetic but when it is not under waranty i say and have and will use a 50w motor oil and you will see a cooler oil temp. If i had a 85/90 AMI GL5 gear oil or 85/90 in it now i would not change, if you are not working it in the hot country and pulling at long hours at a time it will be maybe ok but if it was enpty i would use the 50 w in the eaton. If you do a google search you can find some good sounging oils that is supposed to go any where but the reason i think that most gear makes or trans makers ask for a snythetic by a certain part # to get the waranty is they know that there is a magic oil out there that sounds good and supposed to be able to be used every where but they want to know what is being put in there and you have to have prove in order to get waranty.

And that is even in the mack service manual. There is no snychroizer like eaton uses to get eat up by the mutigear grease but a clutchpac in the later mack trans and mutigear will not hurt the clutch pac and i am saying clutch pac as it is used like a snyronizer . I know some guys use mutigear oil in eaton with out bany problems but why do eaton teach not to.

You are ok to use muligear like 85/90 and were you are i dont think you would need 65/140 but at one tine all mack gears run in that before the snythegitic but the aux should not get any thing better than 50w because it has needle brgs. I have used 50w aershell white can for many years and now i just use a staight 50w engine oil . about 30.00 for 5 gals. Eaton or roadranger trans need a 50 w oil also.

Is that a eaton or mack trans? Mack sure the floor is not toughing the stick and the cab air bag is hold the cab up and not too low.

you can fill the holes , i have filled hole if it is a single frame. You get you a blck of brass and use on the other side of the frame as a back stop and use a mig and fill holes and grind and then take a rose bud and heat to a pale red and let cool.

I like that.

If you had side way movement on the rods with pressure on the crank then you can say the pistons are not holding any pressure from turning so that is the simple way to see if you have rust or gravel or any thing on the top of the pistons or rust on the cylinder walls now you can check some thing else like ???

I have done many of them that way . Now no one will weld on a tank because of the libility aspect of it. I always said the tank straps is what people should worry about for as breaking.

i start to work on trucks when those was still in production. I miss working on them and have had two of them my self and still have one. Being young and a up start and wanting to learn i had a good job working on them and i guess i always though they looked good . I like the one that was around here for years parked and dont know what happen to it but it was on 22" budds with a endt673 and a quad with long wheel base and round tanks with the large air cleaner and i was in love with it but the owner always said that he keep it and told his drivers if they tore up any more trucks they would have to drive the mack and not many drivers wanted to drive a two stick box. It is too bad i dont have money to burn or i would have a lot of macks maybe a B75.

Rob that is a # 6 line and it dont need to be reducted by the fitting any so a stroflex is the best . I would not use a push on like stragrip because that hose cares a lot of heat and if a air ride trailer is used then it is realy hot and a straflex hose is going to wear better because were that hose runs it can rub on alot of things. That can be a single brad hose.