theakerstwo

If i understand right it will only turn a1/4 turn with a bar. If that is right then it is not good so start to pull injectors and see if it will turn with a bar and watch for coolant coming out of the head. If you free it up like that the a head has to come off to check out more . If that dont help then look for a dead cat in the belts and if non then pull the drain plug and check for metal . Or pull pan and have some one hold a lot of pressure on the bar trying to turn crank and then you take a long sreww driver and try to slide each rod side ways. That will tell you which rod is locking the engine if any and if you find it locking the engine then pull that rod brg and check and if ok then look for a bent rod. Those are thin rods and i have seen people bend them but never to lock a engine. if it is a main brg then you will see it as you look up arond the main cap. If it is a rod it should have a rod cap blue. When youy drain the oil watch for the first little bit that drains and see if there is any antifreeze in it.

To clean out a rad. that has alot of dirt and bugs the best way is give up and take the air/air off were you can soak with soap and water and then get a hi pressure air hose and blow gun and blow out then look thru with a light and you can see if clean then put a screen over the front to keep some out. The clutch like you have is hard to test and i have seen many of them blamed for heat problems. i test them like the manual calls for and that takes time and i can tell you that the man that can walk up there and tell you that it is bad with out testing is not up to date. If it does not roar when it is hot does not mean that the clutch is bad. The rad. could be restricted or the water pump belt could be slippng and not have much water pump pressure and moving much water and if the rad is stopped up with bugs then you cant blow the hot air out of the rad onto the sensor in the fan clutch. many things act like a bad clutch. To test you have to cover rad with cardboad and cut a small hole in front of clutch sensor and run untill it is turning the fan about 80% of the fan speed which should be max speed and you need a photo tackometer to test with. At that speed your water temp should not be say more than 205 and i ant looking at a manual but you get the ideal now. It will heat real fast now so pull the cardboad out and let cool but this is testing when the fan turns its max speed at what temp.If it dont turn more than say 70% then the clutch is bad or belts are hard or bad or pulleys may be worn out.

REMEMBER A candle that burns twice as bright lasts half as long! Have fun. That is so true i have worked on truckes for 41 years and saw many engines burnt because some people find out how to set the fuel up but dont fully understand how to take care of the engine and the first thing you hear is this engine sure has alot of blowby and next trip you hear they scored a piston. glenn

Larry the factory will use # 20 straflex size hose to the starter from the starter valve. so that is a lot of air so you may start to say why do i want to here one of these things anyway. Stuff like that is why i cant here nothing now. Oh i hear good but it is all ringing.

The older air starter motors used a lubercator that used fuel to lube the motor when it engages but the last 4or5 years the new ones dont have that on them. The senold will be wired to where it will not start when in gear and some times if the starter is not set up right the bendix will eat the ring gear real fast and i think your ring gear may be hard to find. I have worked on them for along time and conway had them but isee they have got away from them. I would not want one for the reason of the big tank will take up more room than the battery boxes.

I would put it on and put a pressure gauge on the pressure line to the control vavle and if it dont carry more than 25 psi at netural and warm oil i would use it and i am talking about at 2100 rpm. if maybe it has saY 50 PSI THEN PUT A SMALL COOLER ON IT SOME WERE. glenn i guess you got my message .

Well Mccain is needing a running parner so you want me to call him?

The 711 engine was improved some after the 60s i guess because we had a oil co. here that liked them i think that was gulf oil and they turbo them but did not set fuel up on them from what i understand.

It could be a END711 dont foget that piece off junk.

That is the reason about 40 years ago i learned to tape up the opening on a manfold when it is open and dont open it untill it is ready for the hose. I have worked at a dearler for manyyears and will say that i have seen about one hundred engines go thru this same deal and it is that it is mosty from young guys that have not thinking how easy it can happen and yes it has happen to me. I see guys ever day still doing it and if i say any thing about it most will say i have never did it before and i have even got guys a roll of tape and they will throw it back to you any way i am glad you found it.

When the engine is locked up check and see if you have any valve clearace and if you dont then the piston may be hiting the valve and if it does have clearance with preesure held on the crank then try to mash the valves down and if you can then valves is not hitting the piston.

I have had 2 wast oil heaters and the brand name on both is Lanaire and i like them. I keep my shop which is only 30 x40 as warm as my house with it and there is no telling how much gas would cost to heat it as warm as we heat this. My brother has built two shops one wood and one metal and in okla the price he tells me is close whether wood or metal. Mine is a pole barn design and i think all time about the post that is in the ground even if they are in concret, but i think they could rot off sooner than they should.I know they will out last me but when i am gone i would like somthing standing for a few more years longer than me.

Ever bent rod that i have seen could be detected by looking at the wear on the old rod brgs. because i think which ever way a rod bends it will show more wear on one side of the rod brg. I aways look at the old rod brgs close when i pull them out so you know what is going on. if in dought you better change because it is you not some one else working on it and when the head is back on and it is still smoking you will be mad at your self and no one else. glenn

Have you had your oil checked to see if fuel is in the oil or does it just look like it. It is hard to detect if not by a oil sample testing. glenn

here is a quote frome some one else that realy is a common and tiring thing that driver see happen out there. glenn tired of the high fuel cost, low freight rates, greedy brokers, cream skimming companies, bad hair day DOT's, sour faced scale folks, ripoff repair shops, overpriced parts, no idling laws, right lane restriction laws, split speed limits, over priced lumpers, household mileage pay, toll road and bridge rates, Mexico's border crossing trucks, Canada brokers not loading US trucks back, powered eggs & potatoes, selling toll roads, tolling paid for interstate highways, lease purchasing trucks to people too sorry to save a down payment, thereby driving down industry standards and rates, Trans Texas corridor .... And I can go on and on.

I have been around them and worked with them alot. The unit is used to advance the timing with weights and as the speed is increased the advance comes up. The best i remember the total advance was 13 degress. Only non turbo engine need them. I do not think it would be possible to get a surce from it. When we would turbo a engine we would aways take them off. Your surge will be in the governor and if you need a pump for that engine i have a good pump that came off of a running engine. The pins in the weights will wear but i have never seen a scurge but will see a lose of power and that would be noticed by some one runnig it ever day with a load and then he may notice it if it went bad. You can inspect them thru a big plug on the side of the drive housing with out pulling pump. Sruge is from governor control due to a weight problem or sticking rack but not a timing chance.

This truck has a multiplex wiring system meaning there is two twisted wires which is the data link going into the cab from out side and all electric functions are broadcast over these wires one at a time or all electrical function at one time to a chassis module which tells other valves and selnoids to do something like the space shuttle does. this has the capability's of letting some one come down the road and down load any info that is on the main frame like logs in service hrs or speed or what ever big brother needs to know. i can have the ecm read by wireless when you go by the yard or in the front gate.

yes that must be a parialflow/bypass filter with that size hoses and it looks good. glenn

Next to # 2 isnt it. ha ha ha ha

Is that dog different from the one for a b61? glenn

The one that does not have a oil cooler may be a 170 HP and no more and it does no have a full flow oil filter but a partial flow bypass meaning that the oil to the brgs. is not filtered before going to the brgs. and may not have a thermostst. The engine that has the 2 intake manifolds or P intake as they were called long time ago has a full flow oil filter and by pass combination. It will have a thermostat and more fuel set out on the rack and timing will be some different as well as a oil cooler and was a 187 HP so they will interchange but are a little different. The engine that does not have a oil cooler will have a big removeable cover on the bottom of the oil pan were you can take off and clean the trash out of the oil pump pick up screen and alot of people did not do that. glenn

photos please

It makes it a lot more fun working on the engine mounts. The old whites and weatern star the GMC and volvos had the rear mounts bolted to the trans. Some dont like them and i dont when putting in a clutch but i think that was a stonger mount system than when the mounts were bolted to the rear of the engine.

My shop is 30 by 40 and it would have been better if it was 40 by 50 even 30 by 50 would have been great but a 30 by 40 is real big enough for one truck and i can use mu fork lift which is a 8500 lb and go in from the side of some trucks to pull the engine or from the front on some but 40 ft is not long enough to put a motor home that is almost 40 ft and hvae room to work on it. My top clearance is 36-6 and you would not want any lower.I have two 8ft slideing doors on the front so that makes it where you can get inside to the sides of the shop pretty easy. I put a used oil heater in and i stay warm. Did not use mush this year we had mild winter and i am retired.

about 12years ago i have a Bmodel that i made into a camper and we would take it to Co. on hunting trips so i was driving it home one night and about 10 mile over speed limt and a hiway patrol pull me over to look. He came up and look at ever thing and ask were was i going and told him home but i would get up about 5AM and hook up for CO. to hunt and that is when he ask do you have a fuss buster and i said no. He then replied you better get one cause some of the guys will take all of your money if you dont slow down and then he wanted to look it over close but he told me it looked ok but he drove one when he was a young man so we was turned lose with out a ticket.