theakerstwo

Thanks for all this help, and hope ya'll have patience.He wants to put a B series on a late model running gear such as a Pete/w cat power, etc, for a working road truck. The rear end of the hood, fender extentions on the long noses were what I was wondering if they would match the front of the B61 cab. We could have one complete running 61 and a parts 61 to work with if he used my old B61. Cab mounts and such would have to be made to get it all to sit on a late model frame. It may better to throw sentiment away and just get a B long nose, cab and all. Now that i know what you guys are up to then there ant no reason that what work with the B75 hood and complete fron end and it will bolt to the B61 cab because the front is the same on both cabs. glenn

The rad. you have there is what i was calling a wide rad. the average B61 rad. was smaller than that. but that will work on a B61 small rad if you have fender and head light panels. Has the air cleaner been taken of of that truck?

The air ride will spin more in rough ground than a camelback.The ideal of that is if you are loaded on a level road and the tandem will weigh 40000 lbs on the ground and has 65 lbs of air in each air bag then you roll one wheel up on a 6 inch rock then that bag will not deflate vere fast so what hapens is the other three wheels are lifted off of the ground to some degree for a few secs or untill the air is equall in all bags then your weight is back to the same on all four wheels with the same traction. But for a sec or two the traction on one wheel is greater than on the other three wheels when the one wheel was raised up.Now on a camelback if one wheel rolls up on top of a rock or what ever then that wheel is pushed up and the wheel on the other end of that same sping is pushed down by the same weight it took to raise that wheel so the traction on all four wheels remain about the same because the weight on the ground is the same on all four wheels. As far as getting stuck i dont know but i am sating you do not get as good traction on air as cameback and most dump trucks that have been around both will tell you the same.You may not have any trouble with air if you are not in rough stuff if there is any such thing.I dont know how you could get a better suspension than a camelback. Once you under stand the suspension and how tuff it is then it will sell the truck to you. As for as older trucks i like the old maxidyne and six speed and camelback with the dayton wheels for a off/ on road dump truck. glenn

Scott does your B613 have the wide rad? Some B61 had the wide or big rad. like the B75 or B73. I remember a B615 that had the V8 and wide rad. I aways wanted one of them so i could put a cummins in it and drop the floor pan down on the drivers side.

The hood will be too long and the rad. and fender and headlight panels will work but the rad. is the wide rad. on the B75 but the fender panels i think will not work but you should be able to find them and the fender will have the extenders on the rear which i think you can leve off. I have never did this but have worked on them long time and it looks to me that will work.If i had it i would want the large rad. on my truck. glenn

You said that your old pump was leaking bad and i did not under stand where it was leaking.If the pump it self is leaking then maybe you can repair but if you are saying that it leaks down when you pump it up then it may be a ram leaking by the seals and that is easy to check. glenn

The way you can tell if your compressor is pumping oil is to watch the air died discharge its exhaust on the ground under it and there should not be any oil on the ground. If so then change the compressor because the oil in the air will cause the dier not to work and on top of ever thing else oil in the air will cause problems to all air valve in the air system. glenn

With a push pull cable you can raise the cab and lower the cab when runing but no cabover need to be running when the cab is raised or lowered. It is too dangerous to do so because the trans could be knocked into gear. if you use a cable you need to connect to the governor lever and the other end be connected to the pedal but this is not just a bolt on deal.It will require some fab work and you need to use your lever lenths to your best advangage and if you are not a fab man i would not do much thinking about it unless that is your last move. glenn

Is there any of those old cummins engines that burn diesel and natural gas still out there in the field?I have not been out there in a long time .

I will agree with you what you said. glenn

I looked at the video of the engine running.I have worked on those engines years ago when they were used in the trucks.I see it is on propane and i wander if there is still a problem with the rings seating when on propane. When i worked propane engines we most the time could break them in on gasoline but if we could not there was special procedure to build one that was going to start up on propane. I have seen good results out of propane and natural gas when done right.

You are thinking the timing may have slipped or what?

It sounds to me like your will have to have mack make a service call to do it. The cover to block is like a inlime engine you can have a machine shop make that. It will be the same ID as the OD of the crank and the OD will be same size as the ID as the front cover. The seal driver you can take the seal to the machine shop and have him make it. The other two tools i dont think would be easy to make.

Some times you can take the muffler out of the end and leve it out and it will run better. glenn

You have it about right. I use a carboard blocker to cut off almost all of the air to rad. I forgot tell you that i cut a hole in the carboard at the point of the clutch the same size of the clutch so all the air that goes thru the rad. will go over the clutch which the sensor is in the front of the clutch. you need a photo cell tackometer and at maybe 1800 rpm check the rpm at the clutch pulley when coolant is cold and with engine running let it heat to about 200 to 205 degrees and check the rpm at the pulley and also at the clutch housing and at that temp the clutch should be locked up and turning 80% of the pully speed and it will not turn any more than that if it is good. It will be roaring loud at 80% and that is max air that it can move.Then back rpm down because the temp will come up fast.Some times it is hard to get carboard in between the air/air cooler and rad but this is a real test that has to be done when working waranty and is from the switzter manual and i have used it for years .It makes you look like you are slow but i like to use it to keep from doing like some of my freinds that just put on new clutch .I hate to put new parts on and then the dearlership has to pay for it if i am wrong. glenn

You do need a adapter to use but i dont know if you have one on it or not and if you dont know what one looks like post a photo of the rear of the trans where you think the cable should hook and we can tell you if you have a adapter gear box or not. glenn

If it is running 220 that may be the way the heads got cracked. If there is no air line to the clutch then you may have a viscosity clutch which is not a simple way to check but if you find that is the clutch you have then get back and i will help you troubleshoot it. I dont what to put my mine in deep thougth mode untill i need to.

That reminds me old times like when i started working on trucks for the mack dealership in Tulsa.

I quess that you have the drive gear and worn gear in the trans and not set up for a sensor.If so then you can conect to speed o head and then you will have to have a adapter gear box on the trans so you can connect the cable to it. The speed adapter is what calibrates the speed o meter to the ratio rear ends you have.

In detroit diesel school i learned that all new EGR vavle engine have a exhaust backpressure range to stay in or the ECM will have a active code and derate because it will efect the emmissions out put.I learn that flex pipe has a lot of restictions for ever " of flex and i always though that before then, but hot flex is resticted more than we can understand.I never did use more than 18" on any thing.

Dont know what you are saying when you are messing with the loader but if you are working on a truck engine the best way to trace a air line is to get a hold of it and run it to the end and that is were it is but if is not connected to any thing the only thing i can think of is the puff limiter cylinder has a air line to it going to a air reverse ing relay on the intake manifoild that is disconnected my many think that black smoke will give them more power. if that is were it is going dont worry about it untill you want to stop the black smoke on gear changes.

If you can repair your old dier then replace it because if you live to be a 100 years old you will end up saying dont run with out a dier but if you dont repair drain ever day or ever time you get out weth 1 or 10 times a day. I have seen trans air cylinders rusted up and air fan clutchs damaged and all due to a little water in oil so i repeat repair and i thinkThaddeus told you ever thing about a air dier that that makes it work. Glenn

On top of everthing else beside the point that it is a danger to your heath the flex is a way to loose hosepower and i have seen that happen many times.I have seen trucks with 10 ft of flex and that is a lot of ehauxt leaks.