theakerstwo

For many years i just loved to replace the linkeage on the f models and if they had a V8 the better but i would throw all the likeage alway and install a push pull 3/16 cable to the pump and did or helped a freind do one last week on a DM.You have to be handy at fab work or forget it. You make a anchor bracket for both end of the cable housing and mix and match the lever lengths needed to get the feel you want and if you have loose mounts or a toughey governor that is hard to drive and jacks off when you take off the the cable will get where you want. My freind had some bad linkage but the cab was jacking around and that makes the governor too toughey if it is a AMBC punp. He called me that night and told me how happy he was with it .You can make the petdal a longer thro but easy and it is a improvement. Most truck after market stores can order or here the one store can make you cable in 10 min. the way you want it. I use them and make the cable to push and it works ok.

Have had loose exhaust seats do that at an idle or when you let off the throttle, might last a week or 5 years! Terry Yes and i had one that had a lose valve guide i think on the intake but it was so wore out that the valve was rubing the liner so hard that it had a 1/8" groove wore in it as it would open and the valve was hanging open and the piston was pushing it close. glenn

The engine should make a good power plant if not too much. It has low end torque and the only thing i can think of is hope he ant swinging a too large of fan cause the mack water pump dont got alot of bearing in their water pump.

What about shock absorber fluid idont have ant old shocks left but just though of what if i need some.and shutter fluid. I guess you could use marvel myster oil for the shutters. and clutch pressure plate shims which you could make them.

Sounds like a blowed head gasket from here.That means compression leak by a head gasket and some times you can find it when it is running by pouring a little soppy water down around the headgaskets and between the heads. Look for water being blowed away from the heads.If you put one gasket on then puy both on.

that yoke has to be put back on the same way it came off ( in time with the other yoke)

Did you try the mack dealership? I got the same thing about 1 year ago.

I have seen that done many years ago when the engines had a ring break in problem even seen fine dust off of top of stove used. glenn

I dont know when they went away but all i can say good deal We are all better off now. But for real the shoes on them wil last for ever.I dont think you can wear them out because the shoes hardly ever though the drums. The adjuster are froze up before the shoes are wore out. glenn

Realy it is not a crush sleeve but a soild tube about 10 inches long that goes between the 2 brgs. and it sets the load from the factory and you set that nut up to about 450 and that is it .The pupose of it was so no bad adjustments can be made and the front axle had then to.I was concerned to whether some one had left them out.I have not been updated in any schools in about 4 tears so i did not know the late stuff .Yes they were on the otr trucks and started around 1998 i think.I have seen them left out but if you tighten the nut like the factory calls for then you burn a brg. glenn

That is what we did at freightliner and the tone wheel will set the clearance itself. Many times some one fogets to shove the sensor in when they get thru with it and the abs light come on and it will say too much air gap so you take a screwdriver and push it in all the way.

On a freightliner with that axle there is a crush sleeve to set the brg. load and i would have though that would have been in the same set up you had.

Is there a inter spacer between the brgs ? i didnt see the spacer in the photo should be a spacer with that set up. That makes the brg. adjustment simple.

I have seen lines groww together inside from too much fuel additive use and it is the same as not having large enough lines.

It may be derating so you should have the codes read. there should be a check engine light coming on if it is a active code in it.

I dont think they could raise 1 axle like he wants to do . I dont know how that is going to be done. glenn

If the axle nut is the single nut with two locking tabs then it is easy to do because that is the set up that has the spacer sleeve between the brgs. like a crush sleeve and you just tighten the nut up against the brg. and torque i think about 450lbs .Mack sure the lugs will lock because i have seen them broke and would not lock because some one did not know how to release the locks when taking off nut because they did not have the size socket that was needed.

I have seen that same thing happen more than once.

I saw a pto like that back in the 60s that had a adapter between the flywheel and crank and it had a flat cog belt around it and it cam out of the side of the adater to a pulley on the out side that whent to a cement mixer.

When welding a bead around the liner dont forget to put the ground clamp on the block becuase i have seen a deal done where the man grounded to the frame and now you can burn up other things and if if has a ECM then it should be unhooked.

Another thing that will cause the box to turn hard to one side is if a punp is weak and will not build enough pressure any time then when loaded one side of the turn could be harder.The reason is because in a steer box there is more squar inches of piston on the bottom side than there is on the top side and that is ok when you pump can build enough pressure when needed but if you are loaded and the punp will not put out more than say 600 or 800 psi then that will be something you will feel different from one side to the other. That is the reason you need a flowmeter to monitor the flow and pressure as you go thru the turn both way.If a piston ring is leaking you can monitor the flow sa it looses power.I lik to put a block of wood between the tire and wheel and block the movement as you monitor the flow and about 1000 rpm and if a piston ring is leaking you will notice the flow go up and the pressure go down . Most pumps are about 6 gpm flow. If you are monitoring the flow meter and the flow goes down and the pressure goes down from one side read to the other side turn reading then you may say that the control valve is wore out and the on that box there it is not much you can do.

The problem with trying to do any major repairs on the steer box is if it is not a adjustment then it is worn parts and you may not be able to buy those parts.I know i can buy the out put shaft or some call it the cross shaft and bushing or if it uses brgs. for a kw but freightliner do not sell ant thing much more than a seal kit but dont know about mack but the last mack rebuilt box i got was around 450.00. alot of the time the slck is in the control valve and that is the heart of it. But the was i set the stops and poppet valves is jack up front and backoff botl poppets and i am talking about adjustable poppets some a automatic set when you install but back to setting poppets. Set you axle stops both at max to where the turn is about the same both ways and lock them and leve them along.you need a flowmeter to install inline on the supply line to the steer gear and then let the weight back down and then with engine running about 1000 rpm turn the steer wheel slow to one side and just as the axle stop comes in contact with the axle then you want see a pressure reduction and a flow to decress to about 25 to 50 psi on the pressure and i have used a 2500 psi pressure gauge only with out a flow meter and you will maybe be reading 500 psi on the gauge as the wheel is turned and the stop contacts the axle and you pressure should drop to about 25 to 50 psi. If it does not the screw in the stop till it reduces the pressure. If the pressure is reduced before the axle stop is contacted then back out the poppet screw. that will adjust the poppets. You sure have that engine painted good. glenn

If you are checking the free play with the engine not running then there will be some there. But with the engine runing there should only be little slack in there. The screw is to take out the slack between the input gear and the side gear.The best way to adjust is to break the drag link off of the pitman arm and then lossen the jam nut and turn the srew in a little and then turn the steering wheel from one stop to the other and turn screw in untill u fell a little drag which will be in the middle of the turning range and then just take that drag out to where you dont feel it much any more then hook up drag link and start the engine and if you still have too much slack then replace with a rebuilt. You cant take the slack out of the control valve in the box because it is wear in the sector control or worn bushing or brgs. on the cross shaft or out put shaft. These box should not be messed wih much any way because i have seen people pull then apart and loose something and then it ant no good no more. glenn