theakerstwo

You use a test gauge.

Or three o/d trans.Just think ,how fast would the drive shaft speed be.

I had forgot about line going to the governor.I have a freind that still has one.

That would be the later one made.

The deal on the pump is only a air cylinder and with air it limits the rack travel.If you take it off dont lose the shims that is under it.

4:17 is the proper ratio for that engine .Get any faster and it will kill it for a work truck but if its a fun truck go fast.

Also look at the end of the rocker shaft to see if all of the plugs are still in.If one is missing it can lose its oil pressure.

That is a four valve engine in the photo

I wish that i had a dime for all hoses that i have found in my life that was new but has a flapper over one end so dont forget that.I always said that if you have 28 to 30 psi under load you will get full power.On any engine i dont want the pressure to drop at full thottle unload more than 5 psi over a no load condishion.

Larry remenber it can be restriction or air and its easy to make a sight gauge with a clear plactic hoses.If it was you over floe valve bad it wouldnot have 15 psi at idle.A way to checkthe overflow valve with out pulling it off is use some vise grips and mash the fuel return line to the tank partially closed.The take a reading and if the valve is bad then the pressure will hi or stay up.Done close the return off too much.This will prove if you suppy pump is good and tell you what the overflow valve is doning. That is if you have a good supply to the supply pump.

Woodward governor

What most guys did was was take a #6 swilve and cut back short and then braze a #6 brass fitting to it and that way you have a #6 male on one end and a #6 female on the other end of you tear fitting.Then put it in line of you line from the filter to injection pump.have a port from the fitting to your gauge hose.That way you are reading after the filters.Also this reading needs to be taken unload.

Ron i have though about that and your are right.I am mixing engines so i am thinking now he should get a rear seal cover from a later engine like a ENDT675 and try that with a thin seal.Thanks for checkup.

I have one with dyntard and one with jake brak and no difference in braking power.I like the dynatard better because when you are going up a hill slow and need to shift using the jake it is too slow about coming on.The dnytard is as fast as your finger.This may be just because there is something wrong with jake brake.It i adjust right but there may be some dirt in the screen on the solenoids cause i have not taken themoff and looked.

Your right again. I have taken pads out of trucks that were ten years old and the pads were still useable.

I run two lift axles and rubber will not stay with you. Rubber pads now is not same as they were 45 years ago.

I should say that there may have been the last modle of 711 with a lip seal with a different crank because i dont remenber ever thing that i have seen.There is also a cam cover back there that could leak oil.

I have used late engine seals before back there but first the crank has to be sent to machine shop and have the slinger machined off of the crank and a later model cover installed in place of the old cover.

For a bit of infomation on the rear seal,There is no rear seal but there is a lead wire mashed down in a groove cut in the retainer.It only serves as a dust shield.The is a slinger made on the crank to devert the oil back inside.How ever excess blow by will blow oil out there and you can pull the trans and replace the wire to find it dont help much if any.

Yes the over flow valve is the fitting on the return side of the pump were the return to the tank is connected.It its a old valve you can open it up to check and see if the spring is broken.You also have check valves in the suppy pump which may be hanging open causing low fuel pressure.A on and off lost of fuel pressure can be caused by a object being sucked up in the pick up tube. On my work truck I had same problem maybe three years ago so so i came home early and open up some fuel lines to find a large hard shell bug sucked up thru the supply line and into the inlet fitting of the primary fillter. I guess he had fell into the tank when fueling.

As for as the surge in the governor that is common with the pump.Its some wear in the governor and i have seen it many times.So with out spending alot of money on the pump rebuild i would live with it.As for as the loosing power i learned years ago you can guess all of the things that is not wrong with it but no way of know what it is untill you start testing.Its a fuel related problem and you need to get you a 100 psi liquid filled gauge which here they cost about thirty dollars.Run a # 4 hose from it being tied to the wiper arm down to a fitting that is between the sec filter and injection pump.I made a fitting years ago from two # six swivels that will go in line of the hose.Running down the road you watch that gauge and can learn what is going on there.Bt the psi dropping off with the lost of power it will be a restriction or sucking air or the check valve or some called it over flow valve having a problem.Another thing that i had a problem with on my B model when i installed a larger engine is on a damp night the little air cleaner i had on there that was made for the 673 engine was frezzing up and causing a lack of air to the turbo.I had a pryometer and it was easy to find the problem.

I would say someone has had those chromed which is common to do.

And the fuel pump has been changed because a magnum engine came with a AFC fuel pump.some one has stole the pulse manifold and Holset turbo.And also i have never seen them come from cummins with the chrome.

That is what the big companys want is for you to get out so the illegals will have a job when they get here.

That engine in the photo does not look like a magnum engine to me.A photo of the other side and numbers off the data plate who help but all magnum engine i was around had the steel oil pan with oil pump pickup tube at the front.And the oil pump will have a small oil line about six inches long connected to the oil pump to the oil galley of the engine behind the pump. Like been stated the off set key was for timing the cam to the gear.Small cams as well as Big cams could use it.