theakerstwo

Your right

The oil is coming from worn valve guide and or worn rings and that's to be expected when run with out a load for that long of time.You may try to have valve seals replaced and see if that helps but if its not using a lot of oil it may be ok for some time.When the engine is working the valve seals and guides have turbo pressure pushing oil back were it should be but at a no boost mode oil comes down the valve stem into the cyl.

If it just had some more time I would tell you what I think about the scum that's in the white house but I need to go to work now that the rain has slowed down some.There is another problem and that is working, it makes me feel like its something that ever one don't do.

I have a new take out lined up to be installed tomorrow night.

That is a 12000 axle and yes its a dump truck with two drop axles.Its not that heavy on the front but the twisting and turning is too much for it.It has to have the wheels turned sitting still more than I like.Some times in soft dirt it will not turn the wheels when I am turning the steer wheel .I guess it needs to be a 16000 axle under it so tomorrow I will start checking on one.I wish it had twin steer.

Now that you have your clutch brake and free travel set it time to go in and adjust the pressure plate.You can get on you tube and find some videos of adjusting a clutch.

This is what I found on my truck today.Aboutb two months ago I broken the bottom tie rod arm now the spindle

Don't worry about the boost as much as the pyrometer.I would not want it to go over 950 if its behind the turbo in the pipe.I have one that I have did that way and the pump is maxed out with the pistons and turbo and injectors from a 427.It will run 32 psi on boost on a cool day and up to 1000 on pyrometer if you stay in it on a long pull.It runs with 425 cats

Also when you do have to over haul the engine I would and have replaced pistons with what a VMAC 427 engine has and with the injectors from a 427 and the turbo that you have the engine will work so good.The 427 uses a lower compression piston and is better for the head gaskets.

That is brg separator for a roller brg.There is many in the thrans and also does the trans have a pto on it.

I sometimes think I would like a auto trans if it had a retarder.

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That could be what it is but that's also reason I told him to check the fuel pressure when running down the road.That test will tell you more than one thing about the system.

That was simple.I anchored a 3" air cylinder with push pull of about 10" to the left side of the block.With a small chain it pulls the clutch lever which I had to extend the lever about 3" and drill a hole in it for the chain.I mounted a push button air valve on side of shift stick and there is room for it if you use a round ball knob.The valve is the one that a RTO6613 trans used for the pto style clutch brake.Air to it and from it to a three way pilot valve that airs up the cyl.I put a air regulator in the supply to the pilot valve so you can adjust how ever.I have mine to were it will almost pull the clutch but needs my foot on the clutch to push all the ay down.And if I am milling asphalt I just get the clutch down and with my finder just hold air on the clutch and let my foot up to rest.If you try this tell me and I will post some nunbers with photos.If it put one on my other truck and don't think it will work and the stick as well cause it uses the mack shifter know instead of the up/down shift valve and round know.You have to put some pressure on the clutch before you air it up or other wise it could double up the clutch cable and hurt it.

I am same way with common rail.I did not work on them before I retired but did school on the ISB common rail I would still be working on them but came down with a health problem that said I need to show down.The midrange freightliners used that engine.It is so much quitter and better fuel mileage and any thing is better that the previous pump.

If you don't find it then make you up a tee and put it inline from the filter to the injection pump.Connect a 50 psi gauge to it with a hose that will come up to your cab.Drive it and watch the fuel pressure and it should keep at least 30 psi under load as we as unloaded.This is checking for a restriction in a line and also the supply pump and it will also show a stoppd up filter.There should be two filters on that truck. Make sure your throddle lever is ok.

EPA has brought this on us.They are stomping the fuel out of the injector tips harder and faster and more of it trying to hold dowm emissions.This is going to desroy something under the injector.When you had a line going into a nozzle from a injection pump you did not have a injector cup problem.

I built a air assist clutch for my mack a few years back and it is a life saver for my bad knee.I adjust the air pressure to were it almost pushes the clutch down but needs my foot pressure to hit the clutch brake.

With this injector there should less torque and surging on the seal at the bottom of the injector.

There was a fleet of B models here that had that engine and the baby quad in them.They were concrete mixers

If you post some good sound advise then that's ok and helpfull but I see so much posting of could it be this and I think it this and my brother has a friend that knew a guy that used this for a fix so who is helped by this.There is some good advise on here but again so much of I not a mechanic but I think you could do this.There is some good dealer tecks on here that don't post but very little.No wonder cause when you get ten answers and only one makes sense who out there knows who is right or wrong.So much of the posting Is, go replace this part instead of asking a man to do some testing.You see it all of the time some one has told some one who is serious about a problem and he gets to here some on say replace this and he ends up spending much money cause he thinks you guys are experts.I have been around along time and I can tell you if I was to replace a lot of parts by guessing instead of some test and it did not solve the problem that man who owns that truck would be rightfuly put out with me.Any problem needs to be tested first unless you see its broken and hanging down before you start to buy parts.Then some times it hard to be right the first time.But some of you guys start out like its a guessing game not know that some one may go out and buy parts not needed.That who be like me guessing when you should plant your corn not knowing were you live and you start to listen to me.Another reason why some of these tech don't post more is if you asking a question and you hear ten different fixs and two techs that has been doing this for a living looks at this and says why bother because that man who ask for help don't know me from all of the other posted fixes. Don't get me wrong I like reading all post and like this forum better than any others cause we can talk about any thing or any one.This is not to hurt non of you but to enlighten you.f its not helpfull say so.

I would think common rail would be better for the injector cups because the fuel pressure is already there and the injector is only releasing pressure instead of building pressure. The DD15 Detroit engine had the turbo that uses the over ride clutch connected to the rear gears.That engine came out after I left the dealer.A friend of mine that still works there said they had almost stop using that turbo.I don't kno what filtering system the fuel system has on those engines or the DD engine but the Mercedes engine that was in freightliners for a while had the filter that required 200 pumps on the primer before it would start.No one likes it but the reasoning behind it the filter cost like 3 dollars and it goes in upside down dry.you cant pick up a dirty can and pour it full of fuel before you put it back on.It makes you pump fuel from the tank to prime it thinking it will be cleaner.The tolerance in the fuel pump gears and injector parts are more important than ever before.

As long as they came from the factory that would work.but like this forum there would be ten videos for the same question and few would be helpful.

If you use the fuel galley like been stated it will tell you if your filter is good also.I like doing the test under load for a few miles.

I have a jake brake and one with dnyotard and I like the dnytard better on a E6 because its faster to come on.But I have said it before for braking you have as good braking if you open both doors with the window rolled up.Use your imagination some.