theakerstwo

With big HP the main brg bore will get out of line and some times will crack the block at the lower end.I as well as many others have started to replace main brgs and found new brgs will not go in because line bore is off due to the fuel was set up.This is the two valve engine and when this happens you pull block and send to machine shop.The later E6 will do same thing.

Its the plunger sticking inside the barrel

Stuck rack in governor

And different mount gaskets

make sure the brakes are adjusted up.

To me the bumper is silly also to.

I was a mechanice for 39 years but before i got out of it i became a Tech.I never did get used to that term.I just remembered a two valve engine also that was making a tapping nose on the top side and as soon as i pulled the front valve cover i knew what it was.The valve spring had carbon built up on the inside and all around inside.I pulled the head and found the valve guide was worn so bad that the exhaust valve had wore a slot down the side of the liner as for as the valve was moving.

Years ago i had a two valve engine that had noise in the rear top side.I had the rockers off a few times and check for a bad shaft and set the cross head and valves and could not get the noise out.It would come and go at idle and sound like loose valve adjustment.The last thing i did to it was pull the push tubes out for maybe the second time and i moved them to different location and the ticking sound went away.

A easy way to get the seal out is remove the retainer snap/ring holding the seal down and then remove the return line from the box to the reserve then cap the port that is in the box.Crank the engine and most of the time it will blow the seal out before the engine starts.You will have to wash your engine when its done.

I have seen many E6 engines running good when set up on HP and then find that the main brg bore is bad when trying to get new main brgs in at a brg change.Nothen to do but pull and send to mach shop and hope they can save the block.

My mail box is mounted to the end of a cummins crank shaft still bolted to a flywheel as a mount to set on.its been run over two times in 44 years but only needs to be set up when run over.

Ok i was thinking you had a AB pump but yours is a RB like you have already stated.This takes a spined socket to remove the adapter nut on top.were are you located?

If you have a hand primer pump on it then spill time it.The nut on # 1 plunger barrel need removed from top of plunger and the check valve taken out.The nut that holds the adapter down will need to be loosen up with a 11/4 box end wrench and you will have to grind the side down some for the box end to go down on there.Put the nut and adapter back in and then pump the fuel up with the primer.With some one slowly turning the engine in engine rotation watch and stop turning the engine the moment the fuel stops flowing out of the adapter.This is with the gas petal pushed down and the stop pushed in.That is were it is set to start injection on @1.When you have the timing set reinstall the check valve on top of the plunger and torque and i am only guessing now but i think the nut is torqued at 100 ft lbs.Some one may know better cause it being along time since i worked these pumps.The timing adapter your talking about is only a joke.I have one and they are not close to being right.I have a sanp on light and adapter.Some people used a electric pump to flow the fuel thru the punger and barrel.Some guys connected a plastic hose to the fuel inlet of the pump body and the other end of the plastic hose went in their mount and they would blow air thru the plunger and the moment the air stopped flowing was the timing event.

That is what i call snort and rip.Many times the shop forman is the one who says what to check first.

Our mack dealer sells PAI parts.They sold me some E6 engine parts last week.I have used alot of PAI parts for cat.

The front mount on the 707 is a trunion mount around the front cover at the crank.

AviationDB - Aviation Database - Aircraft N93780

I would set it to 22 degrees

That cab is not concaved so maybe they came both ways.Roadway had many of them back in mid sixtys.

I went to a welding shop and got a temp stick which is a wax stick that melts at 425 degrees and heat slow untill the wax melts on the gear when you write on the gear.This is for a cummins cam or crank gear.Why would a mack be different.

A B67 had its engine mounted on a angle and the engine came up in the cab some also they had a dog house over the rear of the engine.the rear of the cab was concaved in.i understand a B61 could have a concaved cab on some of them.

My 1 ton has a ISB cummins and it was surging and i used the additive and it was doing better in half hour. i

The injection pump is easy to check for a sticking rack.This pump hear will have 6 screws holding the governor cover on.When you run the engine for awhile and then kill it and if it will not start back up remove the governor cover.You will see a cam like thing resting or close to a ramp that will move forward and back ward when you mash on the gas and then when you pull the stop it will move to the rearward of the pump.It should move back and forward when some one mashes the gas down and then pulls the stop cable.If it dont move then get some one to pull the injection pump and send to a repair shop who does them.

I like using starting fluid but to put wasp and dirt doubers on the ground.I have used starting fluid for many years and the way any one should start a engine with it is stand back maybe 4 ft from the intake and have some one cranking the engine while you spray and this way you can fan in some air with the starting fluid till you hear if trying to gain some speed.Then go closer with the fluid till it starts but never feed it enough to make it knock or lock up.

put some fuel in the fuel tank.