theakerstwo

I probably have seen them but have forgot so much the last ten years and it ant from drugs.I remember the old block that did not have full flow lub system and I started in 65 and at that time they was still when the engine was out of the frame drilling thru the oil filter mounting pad on the block and pushing a sleeve down thru there.It would drirect the flow up to the mount pad cutting off the flow from the pump to the galley and forcing it to the filter and then back down into the galley.There was a oil galley made of cast that came up from bottom of the block to the deck of the engine for the two oil holes for the rockers and some times they would crack and lose oil pressure to the rockers.There was a fix for it I remember and it was a small tube that was pressed down thru the oil hole from the top when head was off.We did turbo a lot of 673 engine in the mid sixtys.The smoke screw was taken out of the governor and the scrovance was removed and a direct drive was installed.Two rounds of rack and a pyrometer.Some of those turbos were water cooled.

I don't remember it that way but could be wrong but do remember the 711 using the 3/4 corner studs and then later the 20 bolt so I guess maybe the 673 had the 20 bolts also.Its been long time ago.

The B and C engine was complete different engine than the 673.Different block and heads.The 673 used 18 head bolts were the ENDT used 20 head bolts

The ENDT 673B was the 225 HP I don't know what A is.

There is different pans for both engines and the right one could work on either engine.The is on a E7 a paper gassket and a rubber gasket which takes different pans.

Larry I have pulled many and what you do is remove the bolts in the rear of the fenders and unbolt the rad from the front crossmeneber then lift fenders and rad out together.Take the cross rods on top loose at cab.Do not do as many say and pull trans.Put a jake under rear of trans and leave about 3" from the bottom of trans.Leave the front cross menebr in.Pick engine up at center and the flywheel and clutch will tilt it down at the back just right and the back of the trans will go down letting the front of engine come up.Cant ramember if the front pulley stays on or not.I have and always will remove the rocker arms on a 673 and use two bolts against the head with a tab welded to a good chain.Later engine some head bolt can be used to hang the engine by only removing the V/Cs.I will say engine will weigh about 100 or 1900 lbs.

I cant copy and paste but check out grand rock exhaust for heavy trucks

Air in the fuel creates a slow timing effect.Airated fuel starts injection slower.

Have someone read the ecm for inactive codes.If it had a active code it will store it as inactive intill it is deleted.Other wise your only guessing what the problem is.

The pull the covers and when running apply 12 volts to each selnoild to see if they are working.Also look for oil leaks on the rocker shaft.

In 64 if I remember right was when the 711 went from a 3/4 head bolt stud in the intake side at each end to two 5/8 to replace it.

The 673 turboed engine was 205 and the 711 was 211 HP.In 74 the 711 was in production I think.

Next time it does it see if the cruze will work.If not it may be your VSS bad.Or it could be just the yoke nut on the rear of the trans loose.You can remove the VSS and use a screw driver and stick down in there and see if you can turn the chopper wheel.

Get some one like mack to read the codes in the ecm.It will tell you what is going on.Other wise you can only guess.It could be low coolant level or losing the VSS signal Then that will derate or shut it down if its programed to do so.

Some more racist remarks which may be true but>

Have you check to see if you are getting current to the wires on the valve covers?

Its a retainer to hold the valve together till the pedal is installed.

If your talking about copy and paste I would like to be able to do that also.

Ever thing in the frame had the loom covering and also on the fire wall.The copper under the dash I don't remember.I was never able to crawl up under there.Hard to fix all of the leaks under there.The discharge line off of the comp was copper but to change it to a flex you will have to replace the bolt on flange on the comp.

A safe way to check is pull a valve cover and have some one turn the engine slow while you check valve clearance on a exhaust valve.If it has a dynotard cam at some point your going to have about a 1/8 lash.If you never find that lash it may not be a dynotard cam.

I worked for mack when the B was still in production.I have seen cooper on thoses trucks and others get a place were it would rub on something and it would eat a hole thru the copper fast.But plastic can rub together for years not leak.

Plastic is a replacement for copper.The plastic can be used on the copper line fitting with inserting a insert tube inside of the plastic as it is tighten up with the same nut.

I saw that on the news the other night.That should make the greeneys happy.

Do you think they may have lost circulation?

Due to the oil pressure spinning the oil the centrifugal force separates the dirt from the oil and it is stuck to the inside of the filter taken out soot that can go thru the full flow.Yes it is a good thing.