theakerstwo

I have no manuals but do remember doing it back in the 60s.On front of the governor there is a plug you can take out.It has a servo piston in there that oil pushes the rack to a fuel postion which is toward the rear of the pump.When you check the timing the rack needs to be in full fuel postion.To get full rack remove the plug and put a short nut or socket in there next to the rack and then screw the plug back in finger tight.The ideal is to get fulle rack how ever you want to do it.The remeove # one injector line from the pump and remover the nut that holds the adapter in the pump and under it will be a deliver valve and spring.Remove the valve and spring keeping it clean.With the fuel shut down pushed in start to pump fuel with the hand primer and watch fuel come out of the # one fuel line adapter on the injection pump.Get some one to hand turn the engine in engine rotation until the fuel just stops and no more than that.if you have to back the engine up some do so about 1/4 turn then start forward till it shuts the fuel off.At that point # one is ready to start injection.The timing marks will be on the bottom of the flywheel housing.There is a small pointer pointing up to the flywheel.I should be reading degrees to about 28 degrees.26 or 27 would be ok.Remove the fuel pump. When you install it and done with timing it make sure you remover the nut or what ever you have against the survo piston before you start it or other wise you will have a run away. To adjust the timing you have to remover the small cover on the front engine cover to find the slotted gear.You need the engine timing pointer sitting at 27 degrees and instll the pump.then check the flow timing When the pump is off the engine do not turn the engine over.

If you look at the rear of the pump if I remember right the rack extends out the back hich has a cover over it.Maybe a plug.If you find that you can thread a screw into the end of the rack and connect a pull wire to it.You will have to leave the cover off and now you will get dirt on the rack.I guess you could put robber boot over that as a dust cover.You would pull the wire back for a fast start or as some used it for more fuel when passing your buddy.

Sounds good to me

Ever see one of the boots blow on a truck like that?It can blow a hole in the hood.

And there is a world full of people that will still defend Ocrapo

Funny story.I was working one Sat. when one of the new recruits came up to me asking Sir if I dropped a socket that was sitting on top of a tire were would it go cause I cant find it.I said ok which tire was it on and what size socket was it.He replys it was a 1/2 and it was sitting on top of the right front tire and heard it drop but can not find it.I told him if he has another one just like it to sit it up there and let me knock it off while it watchs were it goes.He did it. I have put my time in on trucks so I think I can have alittle fun with them.There was not a dull moment at work unless I was only one there.

Challenger what do you think is the cause of short # of mechanics.I think my self is cause the younger guys don't like the dirt and grease they have to get on them.Before I retired feightliner has a student program going on and was buying them a starter tool set if they would go to the state trade school.They had to work nights and did not make much money.I rememeber at the time I left they said out of the last maybe 27 students they hired full time only 3 of then stayed on.

Larry another thing I would check is see if the rack on the fuel pump is free.If it stuck you could have a run away and no way to shut it down.

Baldwin # is cw5131P

# 16 strasflex is what I remember.

I am only guess here guys so don't go all out listen to me.I don't know how much difference there is in timing and I could be all wrong.

Here we go again.some one ask question and don't get back with us.Maybe if he gets back on here he could post a photo of what he is looking at.

Its not the rpm as much as how much the helix is turned on the plunger and that is only done by holding the load on it so the plunger goes into full fuel. I my self would like to know how much advance comes into it in full fuel.

With higher rpm under load.Thats the way it should be checked but again it hard to stay under the hood going down the road.

He may never leave office.There still enough suck ups who support him just for the free stuff.Ever one of us knows of some one is on the take from the government.

liberalism in my mind is free stuff.Sit at home and make fun of people who have to go to work ever day and stand out in cold weather just to have to give it to lazy people who like to tell you how your money should be spent.Lieralism is a group of suck ups that would do any thing for their worthless leader.Liberalism come in all shapes and names.The best I can think of is ungodly.

which ever way you go I would not want my engine to be any more advanced than 5 degrees above specs.

You can take the delivery valve out and use hand primer.Full throdle and no stop and just as the flow stops is starting of injection.You can do that on a Robert Bosch as well as on a ambac.On a Robert Bosch you going to need a special tool to take the holding nut off.What some one was talking about id the electric hi/pressure fuel pump that will pump fuel past the deleivery valve keeping you from removing it.This is not need when you can remove the valve.

I remember them being 2 degrees off from a cat meter but that could be variable from light to light.

The reason no replies is in 67 there was no coolant filter on a mack engine.If may have been added or later engine installed.It would have been a drop in perry water filter.No screw on in them days.

I have used both type of timing lights and still have the clamp on from snapon.I used it many times on checking the timing advance on cat engine but it is off from the cat meter.As long as you know how for off it is its ok for charting the curve on a cat.

When using a welder just make sure and cover crank.All it would take to wipe a crank out is one dinge berry to fall in oil passage in rod journal.

At one time sears had big truck service trucks ever were.Some fleets run sears tires because of the network they had.

Ant going to do any good checking for out of round cause you cant do nothing about it and on top of that give it maybe 40000 miles and it will seat anyway.I have checked them many times and most all of them are out of round maybe .001 They will be out more than that if you have a main brg cap down.I remember years ago when we use to check the inside of liners on old mack with a inside mic.You could turn it long ways with the block and set it were it would hang in there by its self and reach down with both hands and try to push each side of the block to the center with a slight pressure and the inside mic would fall thru.Those blocks are flexable to some degree.I do remember when you had to hone liners to a fit on the old 673.You put them in with dry ice with a .001 press fit then hone with a drill motor and cant remember but very slow rpm and a 10 grit rock I think.Up and down fast or you would not have a cross hatch pattern.

With cat and DD engine this is a common problem and I remember one mack years ago same way.The brg has to be bad for pressure to pass by.Also a air compressor will do same thing.I have seen engine overhaul due to excess crank pressure due to a bad air compress two times.I have seen a few turbos that has blown up and metal lodged in oil return tube.New turbo is install with the return pluged and now oil floods the exhaust thru the seals.