theakerstwo

In 1965 or 66 I drove this mack down town one day to pick up a new F model cab that had came in on rail.I had no ideal how much trust that Perry Harper had put in me.

Larry your B model engine will have a push type clutch and also the flywheel can be used on the maxidyne engine.

If I were you I would check your boost with a known good gauge.

654

Some times two hell bars will get them out but I have had to cut the hold down bolts with a torch just below the injector then you can turn them back and forth while spray PB blaster in the injector cups.There is a puller that can be got from mack tools that work good also.Also I have pulled the sleeve with the injector on a few.Always use antiseze when install new ones.

Even a E6 ambac needs the timing check or timed when you have it off.One way of looking at it is who knows who had it off the last time and the instruction he had to install.

First thing you need is a timing light to get the engine in position to remove.That means a sensor is screwed into the side of the governor housing and you turn engine in engine rotation until both lights are on.Then pull the front timing cover off and remove the drive gear and four bolts that hold the pump to the block.To install set the engine to the specs of timing with out turning engine off of the stroke you removed it from and then install pump.To set the pump to engine timing install the timing light sensor in the side of the governor housing and turn pump from the drive end until both lights are on.Install drive gear and tighten bolts then back engine up against engine rotation 1/4 turn.And then turn engine with engine rotation the engine timing specs and both lights should be on again.When you remove the engine light sensor then pour some clean engine oil into governor housing.If you want to guess at the timing to keep from using the timing light then turn the engine until the spade in the opening of the governor housing is lined up in the middle of the opening but I tell you the engine timing is very important to be correct.

With a 5 speed it needs to be a EM7 and if it was a EM7 300 it would be better.EM7 is a maxidyne and your E7 pump could be changed to a E& pump for high torque which is needed for a 5 speed.

The tire size needs to be same all the way round and also check and make sure both rears are the same ratio.

My suggestion is why would two turbos spool up faster than one.Same drive pressure going thru two instead of one.You can put a turbo on from a smaller HP engine and it will spool faster and boost maybe more till it blows or has too much drive pressure build up and will not be able to over come the advantage of fast spool up.

Another thing about the trans, it could be full of metal chunks and not drain out with the oil.It has magnets in the bottom that holds the steel chunks like teeth and brgs.But like said it could be in the rears.All rear end noise will come up the drive line.

I am sure I used the old 673 water pump on the 237 engine or in my case it was a 320.

Also check the timing.

When you get the engine out the trans is easy to clean were it is in the frame if you have a power washer.To pull the front off of the truck leave the fenders attached to the rad and frame with grille in place.I have years ago pulled the engine and have it sitting on the ground before the engine has cooled off on a B model.Trans stays in the frame.

Yes I forgot to say I had the maxidyne governor set to a theromdyne setting for a 320 and then I maxed the fuel out on it.

That is what I have in a B model but I install a air/air cooler on the front and run the air tubes thru the head light panels under the head lights.It sure made a big difference.Mine would heat the coolant until I had a custom rad made for it.One thing that helps when they are heating is to take the fender panels off of the top of the fenders.

You have a thrust plate with two bolts holding it to the block just behind the gear.

different engine.Less head bolts in a 673

And then install a dust cover that so many do put back on.If you leave that cover off it not only lets dirt in the wear the pressure plate but also ever time the engine cools off some cool air is drawn in and so much moisture with it then it will form rust.

First of all is to adj the brake with the free play adjument.You need the brake set first and then adjust the pressure plate to were the free play is about 1 1/2" and if the linkage has not been messed with the clutch sould come up with 1/2" clearance between the throw out brg and the clutch brake disc.If the clutch pedal had had the stop adjusted under the dash then you may have to adjust the pressure plate to fit the free play.But remember after the clutch brake is set the adjusting of the pressure plate will not change the clutch brake setting.

Also you may need a different air cleaner.

Just use your old flywheel and housing on to the 300.I also changed front pullys and water pump plus the crank hub.

Do you know to adjust the clutch the clutch needs to be pushed down?

Tulsa okla.

The ENDT250 engine did use the single counter shaft trans.Maybe all thru the late 60s and I think into 70s