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theakerstwo

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Everything posted by theakerstwo

  1. If you want new maybe mack will sell you one.
  2. Would that be a E6 or E7and does it need to be new?
  3. Do a bottle test on the radiator and also look for foam inside of the valve covers or at the end of the blow/by tube.
  4. Any time you start to modify and mismatch there is only one way to find the right fuel settingsand timing and that is play with it your self.You need a pryometer and boost gauge even before you start it.I would not advance the timing more than 4 degrees
  5. I myself think that its stupid to give her the time of day.
  6. The 237 engine is a lot better than the engine that came from factory but as seen here it can be improved by making a 250 with it.
  7. Glad your happy with it.I have been thru a few of those projects and one of them was my truck.I used a maxidyn with a duplex and it pulled good around 1400 but when you got to 1900 or 2000 the gas pedal was dead feeling.
  8. The first 237 did not have a water filter
  9. Take it to mack and have them to monitor the TPS.
  10. There is no balance problem but make sure the flywheel is in time with the crank.There is timing marks on the flywheel but the 237 may have the timing marker on front balancer
  11. Yes there is a oil tube in the end of the crankshaft of the comp that can not be left out.It will fall on the floor some times but it transferes oil from the acc drive shaft to the comp crank shaft.The rest you can see what to do.Remenber to drain the coolany and very good ideal to replace both coolant lines.
  12. Yes it is a NTC 475 BC111 It should have twin turbos and yes the timing actuator is done auto which is controlled by fuel pressure.The more power you pull out of it the more the cam timing is retarded
  13. give me the eight digit # of the engine and I may be able to look it up.
  14. That looks like a 475 cummins with a variable cam follower and that is the air cylinder to shift the cam followers.
  15. A lot of guys will tell you to use 85/90 mutigear oil but it will eat the hi/low synchronizer facing.
  16. Listen to your son cause they know all , well sometimes.
  17. That is called reversing relay valve that goes in the intake.The more boost the turbo builds the less air pressure the relay allows to go to the puff limit valve that holds back the rack.Just remember when the puff limt valve is working proper it may fell like a slug till boost stars to build and also remember it does not cut the HP t top end but it does help keep your oil cleaner.
  18. Sounds like the bull gear housing has the diff cases swaped to wrong side.
  19. Also check the air cleaner.If it is stopped up very bad the compressor side can suck oil from seal trying to get air.
  20. As for as switching battery cable you can if you want leave cables on the batterys like they are and then run the batterys down all the way.Then charge them up backwards and the battery will not care.
  21. When you pull hard and jump out and check the temp on the manifold all will be about the same because the heat will travel thru the metal fast but try it.I have been doing that test for a long time and it is good to tell you if a injector is dead or not and then you have to let the manifold cool off then start it and let the temp come up with idle.
  22. With the proper tools it can be changed there.
  23. I don't think a heat gun will help you because it is not burning a piston when at idle.If some one is not breaking rings when they install the piston then it maybe a injector or miscalibrated pump.And also forget the valve train as a problem.I would be looking at all six injectors and pull them and check the flow of them as well as same part #.
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