theakerstwo

I had a set of alummin hub pilot wheels bores out to stud pilot.The shop that did it will not do them for any one he don't know.

Also with a heat problem that has had most of the major parts checked or replaced and still heats the water pump pressure needs checked.You may have a new pump on it and with out rereading to check a water pump the water pump pressure should be checked before replacing it thinking its bad.To do so use a 50 psi gauge and connct into the coolant system anywere before or below the thermostat.With full engine speed the pressure should be around 18psi and I am guessing with out looking in the manual.I know on one of my engines it was about that.If its lower than that look for a belt slipping due to bad pulleys or belt or a bad pump.The engine does not have to be cold or hot and the thermostat be closed or open changes things very little.The rad cap can be on or off also.

The before you install the wheel try the nut on the shaft.If it will not go on then get a thread file and work on it before crossthreading the nut.

I installed my condenser on top of my camper which was a refrigerator box that we made a hunting wagon out of.If I can remember tormorrow I will take photo of how I did my pulley.I and thinking it was a B model engine pulley but I have a 315 engine in it with a after cooler mounted in front of the grille.The pulley I used was a two sheeve but I took another one like it and cut one groove off of it and used brass and welded it to the rear of the first pulley.Back in the med sixtys I worked for mack here and I remember installing the roof mount on B models cause they were still in production when I started working.We had to install a roof reinforceing kit in the roof to hold them.The drive belt pulled off of the crank pulley and thru a idler that was mounted to the six bolt timing cover up front.It was a poor drive system.

A 94 year truck would ve a Vmac 1 or maybe VMAC 2 but the turbo speed code would be for a later engine like a ETEC

I have daytons on my superliner and have never saw one wobble yet.I have a flat maybe ever other week cause I am dump trucking and around junk.The tire shop also will use a 1/2 impac to install and they know that I am going to check them in a few days.Just like a good tire man.

Yes that would be a test to see if you are getting compression in the coolant.It could be a haedgasket leaking as well as a liner cracked or head cracked. But to do the test just get a plactic pop bottle and fill with water.Take the end of the over flow hose just under the rad cap on the rad or coolant tank and put it down in the bottle of water.This needs to be done when the engine is as hot as you can get it.With it running at half speed watch for air bobbles in the water.There should be no bubbles.A air compressor can do this so if you find the air in the bottle you need to disconnect the compressor.Also remember that a new engine will pass air into the coolant when the engine is cold.So keep it hot for the test.This will not be as good of a test as if you was performing this test under load but it has served me well for years plus its sure cheaper than the rip and replace method so many guys use. Also I may add that this is more effective than these chemical test the gas engines use.I have never had any use for the chemical test.

Larry think insulation on the floor and fire wall and inside of the doors.The doors on a B does not hold air like it should also.Also I want to ask what belt will pull the cond.I installed a a/c on my B years ago and found something you may have not run into.I tried to use a fan belt to turn comp but when you do that the water pump is being turned now by one belt. Because the belt you use that goes over the comp and water pump has not enough wrap on the water pump so the pump is only being turned by one belt.What I did was find a three sheve pulley for the pump and use one short belt from the pump to the comp.Fot the condenser I used a red dot with a fan and mounted on top of my camper that is mounted on the truck.In the end it was just cool enough to keep from rolling the windows down.

And then do the bottle test.

If you want to stay with a 5 or 6 speed then a 300 will be very usefull.Don't let guys tell you they want pull.You work them like they should and they do good.Alot of guys are use to cummins and cats that make big power at 2100 rpm and they cant find any reason to like the low rpm maxidyn engine that helped make this world.A 350 with a 12 speed or 9 speed is a good engine.

nice

A democrate made that.

The hi compression piston will be harder on the head gaskets due to more cyl pressure.The bowl size will be different size on each different compression ratio piston also

The 8.25 is not heavy enough rim also to support the air pressure you need in the 3.15 for its rated weight.I have 9" rims but went back to 11R tires with out any problem.The 3.15 tire ride better than 11R also.

Just forgetting the emissions I would say that you could build a mechanical big horse engine but the main thing is it would be so easy to damage with out the electrical timing.a mechanical pump is fixed timed.A hot engine needs to be able to change the timing all day long as needed.To keep the cold diesel smoke or white smoke and slow to accerate when timed slow enough to live with much fuel you need a way of advancing at low power modes or at idle.If you don't understand what am talking about ask some one with a Vmac that the timing advance has stopped advancing and see what they say.If you was going to be pulling all time then you could retard the timing on a mechanical pump and leave it.

Yes the 1674 was a duel over head engine and if you have worked on them much you may remember that there was three or four bolts on the head of the rear cover below the head that would adjust the back lash in between the cam gear and crankgear at the rear.You could loosen those bolts and move the idler gear for more back lash.

Also double check your timing.Some guys want to advance the timing too much.I installed a turbo from a 427 HP on my E7 350 and it cooled the EGT down a lot but I have the fuel set up on it also.I gained about 6 psi when I changed but the big thing is I now can stand on it for a longer time before the EGT comes up to 1000

A 1693 was a larger engine than the 1674.Both duel over head cam but the 1674 was same size in weight as 1673 which was for runner for the 3306. But was rated only at 270HP

The ecm is programmable for how you want it.

I bid on a telma brake on ebay but the guy wanted to get paid with me giving him a card # and it would not go thru ebay so I reneged on the deal.I would have installed it on a CH I have a jake brake and did have a dnyotard on the engine that was in my truck.Not much difference.The dynotard will engage faster for up shifts and that is all they are good for.The doors open with the windows up and your Imagination will do as good.

The SP switch you have is to be used with 24V starter that has no solenoid on it.But the SP switch you have has four big cable ter on it and the bottom two has two smaller terimals on it and that is the two to use to make contact.One needs a ground and the other goes to a 12V starter switch.But I have used the 24V starter with the solenoid on top of it with this SP switch but I don't think you will be able to find a schematic of it cause it was not made to use with it. The SP switch you have has the SP switch in it with a magnectic solenoid built into it.

Larry you ant missed anything.

B model goes up on a tapered shaft.That is reason so hard to get loose

Only way to speed up shift is put a jake brake on it. Years back when I worked macks often I worked on this one truck that the driver used the jake on ever main box split and it was a pleasure to listen to him shift.I use a jake on mine only to knock the rpm down when in low gears coming out of the pit up hill.We was on a job last spring that required stopping on a hill.When we all would take off all of the other trucks would run in low gear for about three block till the hill leveled out some. With a jake you can pass all of them and they know not why because I don't run a straight pipe.

I also helps to lay a sledge hammer on one side of the arm and with smaller hammer hit it from the other side.Be carefull with hammer on it towards the out side or from the box side. Reason is the thrust on the end of the pitman arm is not made to take much pulling out of the box pressure.If you ever in that box you will know what I am talking about. There was two different boxes that the B models used.As stated heat is last resort to do.There is people in the grave yard that was caused by using heat on steering componets.