theakerstwo

mike I can be wrong but I think the 18 stud engine has 9/16 and one 3/4 in the corner then the 20 stud 5/8 came last.

For them to do any good first used your imagination and then open both doors when you want to slow down. I only use it to up shift when going slow up hill.

I have one each and have found that one don't do any better than the other and this is on the E6 engines.

I am not running down mack A/C s but have worked on them my self for years and have friends with some of them and most have same problem as I. The grille condenser is so far out in front of the fan and there is no closure around the charge air and rad openings so the air can draw in around the condenser instead of thru it. this has been a well know problem for years with this truck. its ok till you set at idle out in the sun for a few mins and then the head pressure goes up and then the clutch kicks out.

Om my superliner 11 I had three thin hi horse power fans that cost much too much to think about on the back side of my condenser bolted neatly to the condenser. they did a good job but they were rubbing hard on the charge air cooler and no more adjustment to move them out. So I pulled them and installed the red dot on top. It was 94 here to day and I was cool all day.These fans were I think 1 1/2 thin.I had them on a feron fan switch thru a 30 amp relay.

On a superliner there is not enough air moving across the condenser and rad when not moving to cool properly. So I give up and installed a RedDot condenser on my roof and problem cured. If you watch ebay you can find the new sanden rotary compressor new for 90.00 to 190.00. A new mount brachet for the sanden is cheap so you can have a good A/C on a superliner.Min does not have enough air coming out of the dash to suit me.

Depends on if its te heavy or light tube and what serials drive line as well as what speed of the drive shaft. Be best to call a drive shaft shop and tell him your wishes and tell him if its a o/d trans and what the torque of the engine.

When I first started working on trucks there was still a lot f gas burners out there.I remember the old whites coming in the shop in the summer and you could lifet the hood up and the heat would almost burn the hair off of your face.There was all time a driver in a hurry and did not have time to let it cool off and the forman not having to work on it would give you a job on a hurry up deal.This is what me me and I would not change any of my working days.

First because its got thatcode does not mean it needs a sensor. I know that is the easy thing to do first but that code mean to and fro including the sensor fault. So chck for loose or broken wires. It happens.

Its a maxidyn or hi/torque engine. Its the way the governor weather its a electronic or mechanical governor is set.The maxidyn like the EM7 is set to pull down to 1100 rpm witrh a six speed trans and still have a lot of torque in the bottom rpm range but the governor pulls it back out of fuel postion at hi rpm for fuel mileage to be better.For a E 7 which is set to work with a 8 9 or 10 speed its not needing to pull down in the lower rpm so the torque is up higher rpm. The EM7 300 is under estimated for power by many. It is a work horse and will get good fuel mileage.Most of trhe time its same pistons and injectors and turbo on both but different setting for different jobs that the truck will be doing.

I have been to their junk sale and mack or who ever will build a truck to the oil compantys specs and I remember year back cummins built a engine to Halburtons specs and for years the CPL book had that engine lsted a Bulit for Haliburton.These truck here will have a eaton rear or IHC rears.

The gear train was fixed wirth the last 60S. It has a different cam and front cover and gear train.Its the DDEC 5

I think that is a vent that is leaking. If so that means air is leaking inside from the shaft cyl. So as already been told pull your sift cover and replace the o/rings.Simple on a Superliner or R700.One thing that makes it easy is drop the drive line and lift the rear of the cab some.I have did them by raisingthe cab about 4 inches.

Looks like a ex halburton oil field truck. Many is around here. Most are geared a 50 to 55 mph.It would be hard to tear up.

I worked those engine for many years and was always told that you can not keep the nut tight after taking it off so ever one I know exchange the gear.

First time I replaced the rubbers on mine the spring shop used the rubber pads and they lasted 3 months so I take it back and ask him why he used rubber and his reply was its cheaper. They was torn up and I don't gross over any. So I took it home and my son replaced them with the uretain. They are 3 years or more and no problem.The rubber pads was made in china but he charged me mack prices.I found the uritrain on ebay for maybe 35.00 each.

I work with guys that have quads and have 300 engines. In okla 63000 is all we can gross with 5 axles on the ground at 24ft bridge. That is enough power in okla with some hills.Its best to have a 500 but I find its also good to go with what you can afford.A 300 with a 9 speed but no 6 speeds. A Allison will make it better but some here that have a Allison say brakes don't last long.I run a larger engine but could get by with a 300 if I had to.my 2 cents. glenn

!87 HP and no torque.

The block or engine may have been replaced at one time.

When you get it back together check the air pressure. Should be 60 psi

So far your all right.

That right, all you neds is the proper tools and parts and nipples and dies and press so who has them and also 40 years ago those lines was custom built in pump shops but I have sen them last somes a few days and some never have a problem. The virbration that goes along with the pressure is something else. You see enough broken injector lines from factory lines.If I remenver right whn the pump shop made those lines the end was formed in a press with a die and cant remember any nipple being installed.And don't remember any heat being used.

Slip on fit only.

Forget making your own injection lines.

Don't forget the inspection plate on the bottom of the oil pan. Its round and has a screen inside that you need to remove and clean. this is to be done with the engine that uses the 500 lubefinder.This is all that filters the oil before the brgs see the oil.