theakerstwo

Sorry to differ but the block is same high.We use to convert them because a fleet had some here that had maybe all of them crack or break the crank we would install a.855 crank and rods with NH 250 pistons an a turbo kit and build a NHt 270.They would last longer then.And the heads was same as the NHT 290 or 250 except the 250 did not have hard valves on the intake like the 290.Its been long time since i have worked on them but we was in the changing of them over big time for awhile. I think me and another mechanic converted 25 of the one Kroblen (KRX) had.The engine model was N927 and there was also a turbo model in bigger HP built but never seen one.The story of the block being higher is not uncommon because it sounds that if the strock is longer it would push the piston out of the block but realy the rod is shorter than a 855.We had two of them in the shop in the same week for a over haul and we found a crack in both of their cranks.Crank running from the oil hole over.It was not longer after they was outr of production till the cranks could not be found.So if any on has one and it needs acrank just change to a 855.The oil cooler was differnt than the 250 but if was larger so no problem.

I would put a 6V92 in it with twin pipes and tell ever one its a 12V. most drivers would not know the difference if you did not go opening the hood.

I worked on trhe G models when i was at the dealer in the 60s. Just dont see any any more. I remenber them well and the elecrical box in front of the driver on the out side is something i tought was a good ideal. No one else sees any reason to do that.Ever one now wants it up under the dash were no one can get to it.I also liked the sextend nut that was welded on the front hub cap for climbing in, made good step. glenn

On any of the older cummins it is no common to see a head gasket leak oil. It is seen some times but in order for the head gasket to leak oil the oil ring seal around the pushrod channel would have to be damaged. This is seen when guys use a sealer or get some oil on the rubber seal when insatlled and the pressure when torqe is quashing it out.I would use brake clean and blow the oil out from under the head and run and watch for oil coming from a rocker box shaft seal.A oil ring or plug is in the ends of the rocker box holding the shaft in. It is common to see then leak and drain down and run into the gasket. If you get oil between the head and block on a new engine when hot and running it will bubble out. Dont waist your time retorqueing the head bolts on a cummins.A good way to find oil leaks is get it hot clean with brake clean and a blow gun. Then at 1500 rpm put a finger over the blow/by tube for maybe 5 seconds and relase the pressure and repete this untill you see the oil. This will induce more pressure to crankcase and make the oil leak faster.Dont over pressure or some else could happen. glenn

@00 degrees for a mack engine like yours is just perfect and 205 is ok. When you ran a mack many years you will find they will run better at 200.Dont get getb started checking temp of any thing with the tough of your hand. It all fells hot when you tough it.

the light coming on means you have a active cose so not much you can do with out reading the codes and checking it out.

The scanie that i remenber was a 465 or a 475. n the sixtys there was both of them in B models and one was a small scaled down mack six cyl and the other a six cyl scannie. Both was non turbo but have seen photos of the scannie later years with turbos.The little six mack engine was used in some miltary trucks and was a low HP engine.We worked on some here with both engines that a ready mix had.Both of them as B models with the small quad and wedge brakes.Wedge brakes in and around cement and acid so what do you think they was like. That right froze uo all the time.

Not on a 84

I just when thru a deal like that on mine.A older mack but i give up and got a T stat that has a control knob on it and then connected it to the clutch thru a relay thinking maybe the factory which is new T stat was being damaged by the clutch amp draw. Why did they do away with the controlable T stat i dont know. Now i can keep the blower on hi keeping the evaporator dry yet control the temp.Also the red dot condensor on the roof is a plus.

Thanks

God is good all the time so it can happen.I hope this is only a test that God has put on us and that we do pass it.

Ted its on craislist and you can reach them.They may not see your post here.I to would like to see it.

seals would not efect the boost but a loose air box cover will lose boost.Another thing is any fuel problems that will keep it from getting enough fuel will and also the throdle needs checked to see that it gets full throdle.It should have a rack delay and the piston on it maybe hanging in the housing.But if all that is ok then pull covers and make sure it has a tight rack and if its a VS governor do that with the idle screw back off.If it cant get full fuel it will not build boost and yes the power will be down.

Just how hot does it get and also check timing. Fast timing will cause heat. Loose belts and a worn out pulley under the belts will let them slip.If the fuel is turned up will do some more heat.

Well i dont just love you guys or nothen but do enjoy keeping up on new equipment and teh info.

I know your right.The judges is in on it also.

Most triplex and duplex have a twin disc clutch. If the duplex has a single disc some times the frame mounts need moved because the bel housing is longer on the twin disc.I did one about 8 year ago and had the parts truck here.So i did pull the frame brakets out of one and use on the other with changing trans frome a single to a twin disc.

But all metric bolt thread

Try to connect the throdle linkage futher out on the lever on the governor. But when you get thru with it make sure your still getting full throdle with the foot petdal.Also the cab and engine mounts being bad will let it jack up and down fast.

Like rob said. The rubber bushing of years ago would last ten times longer than they do now. I had some put in my truck and two months they were bad. We looked at them and they were made in china. They said they would replace them and i daid i will bring my own. The ones i am talking about now are two years old under a dump truck and they look good.The urethane bushings is only way to go.

http://www.knowthelies.com/?q=node%2F3949&fb_source=message

I will be with you.me and and my self will have renewed faith in the Lord the next morning.

Some menebrs are missing and one is fjh. Any one hear from him recent? I miss his and some mores tech info.

Thanks to both of you guys.

When you give up and get in the shop were it can have the ecm montitored and timing checked you should be there when they check it. Then you will find that all we can do here is guess what the problem is and you have found it cost a lot of money changing parts. It is too hard to trouble shoot some of the electrial problems with out hands on.my guess is you need the timing checked and that can only be done with a reader on that pump. good luck. glenn