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128 013 7 SID Engine #1 injector cylinder #13 mechanical system not responding. The 3rd is 128 254 4 SID engine #1 controller #1 voltage below normal or shorted Injector pump is likly causeing this code and the related codes you have I'm not an otc user but the vmack lingo is simular .Note if you replace the injection pump you need to install new cal codes for the replacment pump if you cant do that with the otc machine you will have to take the cal code to a dealer for install!

Make sure that the clutch brake is working right before you start adjusting or youll endup doing it twice.

After your email I remembered this place pretty pricy http://www.idc-solut...mance.html#MACK ETEC etech performance power chip module As I said there are guys here running bigger injecters as well they may pipe up.

It will shut down!you have one minute to get off the road after the red light comes on!

Yup your right on that possiblity hk but My observation on that is that normaly happend on the back diff housing or one that has a torque rod to the frame. Very possible if the truck has torque rods.

Can you provide a picture? The power divider was resealed?Mack top load diffs have inside bolts that some times come loose!Then leak at where the diff bolts to the housing,Is this where your leak apears ? Near the large side cover lh side?

68 mentioned this before >BE Sure your not losing coolant! This is important!If its losing coolant ya need to check things closer.

Unfortunatly thats not a high volume item and minimum quantitys of ten which seems to be the way the stupid parts system is ,and the economy being the way it is ordering ten to get one for someone seems rather senceless ya gota see thee guys point.But he could have looked to see if another dealer had one for ya!

Let us know the out come!

Your main issure will likly be cooling!With an ally and 400 horse you may be pushing the limits of the rad!

Yup Good Call 68, and the other thing that will make it gooey is running too cold!180 or a bit better is best!

You need to take it to a shop that has the vmac software and look at how the governer is set!It needs to be set on min max the other setting is ment to feel more like a cummins It sounds as if that is what its set on.The Jake try having a valve set done that may help some!If it dosent have the external line kit already its going to cost you big bucks to have installed now.

Some where on the clutch face you will find other a lock tab held in by a 3/8th bolt or a winder held in with 2- 3/8 bolts depends on how old the clutch is! You may have to have somone wind the engine over a bit to actualy see the bolt/s in question.

Your engine is the way it was built the tube was done away with when the the e7 went eteck!

IF any of you guys are running a primary filter with a plastic bowl or a drain on it by pass that filter temporarly and try again over nite! I have seen many of these racor type filters cause problems and As Rob mentioned by pass everything on the suction side of the fuel pump to a pail of fuel sitting higher than the pump and see what happens.

I beleive what your talking about is a vent.

Glen yours will run fine with 15 psi or more even under load ,should be around 20-25 spec wise thou.

MP I served my apprenticeship thru Mack canada And have worked as a wrench for 3 Mack dealers for the last 30 years!I have seen the short comings and the great stuff that Mack has gone thru.The Volvo Take over has been all I predicted!But we Have to get on with whats left We need to permote the product SUCH AS IT IS,Its No worst that any of the compedidtive stuff ,It will Never be as good as it once was Thats the way it is!There aint much left on it thats mack anyway that is why they have done away with most of the mack people We Do need to support the guys and gals Like your self to the best of our abilitys!We also need to stand behind the product as best we can and try to support the customers with Good service. Keep the spirits up bro.Hang in there And Fight the good fight.

He will easily be able to pull what he wants from the engine, As for the throtle its all how ya get on the throtle If you pantywaste it on the throtle ecpect that result! Hammer down expect a bit more! Remeber this ,The puter can't see the road ahead it can only antisipate and inturprate what you want or need from how you get on the throtle I beleive this holds true even for todays engines. (two maps)I was reading a power complaints flow chart just the other day and one of the sugestions is to talk to the driver and find out how hes driving in or out of the power band and is he using the two diffrent maps!

Not joking There are two maps and that is why what youve discribed happens. there is no programing avlable The best you can do is have somone look at the governor settings and make sure its set on min max in the governor peramiter area in the ecu !I also ran across this awhile back> http://www.idc-solutions.net/MackE-7Diesel...20chip%20module

You need to be agressive with the throtle!The computer has a hyw fuel map and an in town fuel map! If you don't put the hammer down it will take the hyw map slam your foot in it!

Great news.

The easz of install would be to go with Glens jake set up being you don't know with what cam the engine was built with.The dynatard is a clean install But you need valve covers rocker shafts and push tubes.If ya have an after cooler there is an adapter for that as well.

Sounds very tempting to try the engine running, clutch stab before all the heating and prying. I have been on hold with spicer now for 15 min and counting. Might be your only option.