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fjh

BMT Benefactor
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Everything posted by fjh

  1. Grease the ujoints! And get the leak checked likly a return hose clamp or crapy hose .also If it has a steady bearing in the shaft before it goes into the box check and see if it runs smooth! Preasure from the pump! one return line to the tank unless it has dual boxes!
  2. I think you'll find it just behind the thermastat housing . Doest your truck have AC the AC swithtch on the reciever may be fubar!Try jumping over the ac switch if it has one!
  3. The fuel comes up around the injector does not always go out the injecton line,if you pull the plug on top of the injector its quite easy to see if there is fuel sitting on top! I beleive 68 likly has a good thought here if the bore is scored that may be your answer.
  4. The injectors in the heads have orings on them as well I highly doubt you had injector orings replaced at any point unless they removed them when replacing the cam. there was no need to do that but it is possible!!
  5. long shot >soaking wet Toilet plunger ????
  6. three sources for fuel leaks into the pan are eups fuel pump seal and injectors as you have checked and replaced the first two, injectors is a vague possiblity!but seems unlikly. I suspect either an oring was placed in the wrong location on the eups or there is a damaged oring on one of them!
  7. The lower horse power assets did not give the problems of the 460!seemed the more horsepower you drag out of it the harder it was to keep it together.
  8. Increased pay load!yeeha Now were talking!Not only are we gaining fuel milage but payload!I predict you'll be a rich man 68!
  9. Your welcome !Post your findings and fix
  10. A truck that old may have a series parell switch trace the wires from the batterys back look for a big round solnoid!
  11. Welcome to the site. Can you provide pictures of the pieces!Has it ever had a turbo failure ?If so you would likly have found a washer or peices of one in the pan!Duno with out seeing them its a hard call!They will likly be pulling liners to re seal them , so they can look at snap rings on the pistons. The torbo is a definate place to start looking.
  12. 68 Jerry B said he wasn't throwing codes!Why go to the extra effort? Awhile back You should put the driver on your truck !Then you can blame him for everything, It will make ya feel better. Off subject! No falt codes with the egr plug Jerry correct ? That's correct fjh there's no code present. lol I've thought about putting Jim on the new truck but I don't have anything against the man.
  13. Whats it doing!
  14. there was at one time a b model to r conversion !I see no reason the other way about would not work! The area where I live there is a converted b!
  15. I beleive he was looking at his old truck!
  16. I would check the drain back valve for a broken spring and also for air leaks on the suction line before condemming a fuel pump or timing issue!
  17. Thanx Herb! Never heard the term before!
  18. Welcome to the site Set the clutch in order according to this buliten, then we'll talk if it dont work! http://www.bigmacktr...ials&article=43 you may have the incorect arm for the side of the trans sorry, don't understand low hole
  19. Is there a box beneath the coolant bottle if so look for FAN fuse!
  20. Any word on the out come of this project ?
  21. Chances are if the liners come out fairly tight Most of the way out you can just hone and reinstall what ever size came out!If this is a hobby engine I would just hone and reuse the liner as long as it hasn't too much wear!just Leave them in the block!Just my opinion!
  22. Yes correct Rob! The liners are or were availble in oversize dimensions I beleive ( Don't quote me) 2 thou steps up to 10 thou and ( Maybe a bit larger) increments. Good luck tring to find that stuff these days thou! You would have to take what ya can get! Barry might be able to clarify this a bit as to what is still avalible!
  23. Hmmm wonder where the broken piece is Check the drain plug!
  24. if your inch is the same as mine ? 1 inch is almost the stroke of the forks total movment. You might be able to remove the fork By pushing the rail into the clutch housing! MAYBE!I beleive the lock out is your problem thou no need to remove it! Tri making a thick gasket from a cerial box and installing it under the lid of the center section where the stick goes thru! 20 thou may let it work again!Also check to make sure when you remove the front cover of the trans that there is NO spring under it! The detent spring is ment for stick shift apllications it shouldn't be there in your app!That somtimes will cause the air style to stick! The shift lock out sticks thru into the next section of the box so you need to remove that lid to access the lock out .But if you pull the lock bolt on the shift fork you will likly be able to slide the shift rail into the belhousing enough fo grind off the lock out ridge on the compound rail!
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