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The one you need is on the bottom of the pallet Rhand side has the mounting coupler and housing.

Take the fuel stop out and see what you get!NAw ya might wreck sumthing, You can also grind or file the rear ward nut thinner to get a little moreIf the stop is the same as your truck.Is the governer the same as your truck? 6 hole top or 4 hole top? There where very few 285s with RB I remember seeing maybe 2 in 30 odd years very scarce They did make em thou.

Trent is the engine 4 valve or 2.slim pickins ob the old style rb pumps If the engine is 4 valve and a later model you may have a half chance that a 400 pump will fit!The mounting flange on later 4 valves with the alumnum front cover were drilled but pluged for RB and still Ran Ambac

I don't beleive there is a reason. I like your idea beter anyway!

The last part of his advice is important . >I would defiitely put a new set of lifters in. If one has died the death, there is a good chance the others are on their way out also. {new lifters} the old style lifters tend to break after time the new style rarely had a problem.

The only adjustment you will get from what your doing is up and down!Don't be fooled by thinkng your able to adjust side movment if you adjust tight enough to cover up side movment its too tight.

well its an easy thing to miss if you don't know about it!I have been there done that.Hopefully I'm wrong and they looked They likly won't admit to not looking thou We'll see! One thing thou if they didn't look and that is the problem and they admit it, thats the right place to take your truck people make mistakes or are not aware of thngs they can't fix things.Althou this is a (FAIRly) common ocurance its not the only thing it can be nor is it rampent ! stuff happens.

There are plugs in the rocker shaft ends one of the most common causes of instant jake failure baring an electrical failer is the plugs poping out (Hydralic failure)Did they look for this?Lift the lids back of and check the ends of the rocker shafts for plugs.

Yes .I have never seen liners with out carbon on the top !They have to be as clean as the rest of the liner to see the crack!Counter bore cracks also show up as a leak on the fire ring on the head gasket you said the gasket looks good.This is an rw your working on not a MH the Cab over has an air operated heater valve also if you have a shuter stat disconect that to be sure thats not the problem

The cx you have was replaced by the cxn (Volvo frame Mack engine and cab) that made quite a difrence to the air movment around the engine the engines get warm thats the way they are but this changed helped emencely the best thing for you is to move up a couple of years in truck if possible the troubles have droped off with the newer units the first cx was a big problem for the most part.Having said that the fans often were hit and miss you get two bad ones then a good one.

Pull the head that looked funny and inspect the first 3/4 of an inch of the liner AT the top you will likly find a crack!You need to sand away the carbon and inspect them closely!You also likly find the counter bore cracked under that liner.Usually the four oclock position. They crack just about where the top ring stops not often but it can happen.

Jerry I don't think ya can change with out a lot of screwing around anyway the programing is likly all diffrent for the berr fan vers horton!The horton fans have been holding together as of late I think they have learned there lesson!

So yup thats another place to start there should be very little smoke thou I find that worrisome. 15-24 psi would be good.

Are you doing the job your self? If I were you, find a used cam buy the the new lifters and skip the push rods unless there real damaged! The new lifters will not do what has happened to your old ones there made diffrently and will outlast you.

Did you change pistons. It Sounds like you may have gotten the wrong pistons by what your discribing! Did you buy your parts by serial number?? On the older engines there where two type of pistons I beleive. Barry may be able to help ya here I,m a wrench not a parts guy. Email Barry @watts and he may be able to straighten you out IF you have got the wrong pistons!

What HP is the engine? Did you set the timing? What does the fuel pump say on it for timing?

To test the heads run 12v from a power souce ie: start relay hot side directly to the head with the engine running it should fire the jakes!If it dont then the solnoids can be haywire!If it takes a few tempts to gt em to work you may need to rebuild the heads .

An 03 is an eteck engine the crank vent is at the front. or on the valve cover!

I beleive the engine switch is faulty from what you discribe , if the switch feels rough to push in change it!

I beleive you have to reflash the ecu to get rid of passwords.

My other concern here would be the lines make sure your line screw on to the pump!The lines on E6 are sae at the head end Im not sure about the pump end I imagine they were metric on both e6 and e7 on the pump end Duno

My first guess is your throtle lever is not set deep enough into the switch that runs it! its on the thotle lever on the fuel pump.

Jake or dynatard?

Glen I beleive the pump will fit as long as the engine is a later model transision engine with the aluminum front cover 4valve engine, the blocks were drilled to fit either or pumps they simply put plugs in the holes where the robby pump would have been,trick is to find an engine that was set up for this.Bare in mind the e7 is metric the e6 sae,I'm not sure about the gears thou .I have never tried this !The e7 sort of evolved from the e6 parts wise from what I could see the front cover was changed to aluminum shortly before the e7 was intoduced the pump flanges on the e6 came drilled for robert bosch even thou they still used ambac.There were engnes produced with the up dated aux shaft with the ps pump drive splines on the front but had the tin front cover still ,It seened like they were tooling up for e7 while still producing e6 Duno the reasons behind what they did just know they did it!

I second that!