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Did that still no go!The trouble shooter says my computer is configured properly but the device I am tring to conect too is the problem! Duno!I can conet from work or any other puter this is werid! Thanx for checkin!

Barry are you reading your emails? If your not getting them! I'm still struggling with this problem!

If the stick is moving about then its in the main box!Check for peices on the drain plug small ball bearings. the main shaft maybe floating!

Service Hint! You can pull the large pto cover on the side of the rear section and watch the spliter work from there by having someone operate the switch while you look in the pto opening!

Thats 8 hrs labor and parts not bad as long as it holds together. dont feel ripped off cause, you got off cheap.an exchange would have been a sight more than that.

Naw probably just the Mack stuff! Volvo Cars Glenn! http://www.forbes.com/2010/03/29/ford-to-sell-volvo-unit-to-chinas-geely-marketnewsvideo.html Were still truckin so far!

And a good time was had by all! Yet another well tested divice gone bad! Betcha theres gona be sum duckin and weavin at the Cummins warrenty claims desk! O wait its a Volvo problem! The paint color is off! NO WARRENTY! That will teach em for sending us all those defective Turbos! Well it worked out on paper anyway!

Did you set the valves in the firing order by the Valve marks on the fly wheel? Did you have the heads checked for bent valves, the push rods were bent for a reason ,the engine may have been overspead!

Its Unfotunate but true !You won't likly be buying another truck Charlie!You think you have had down time with your old truck just wait a year or two! watch and listen!the trucks built today are geared to fleets!

In answer to your question they work fine the input shafts wear the splines sum is all! The concept Of this was ,the RW was dirived from the W model cab over they both used the same frame and steering arrangment hence ( RW ),the frame change came about when the MH came along ,Same thing the MH and RW still shared the same frame concept,Made production a bit less complicated I suppose!

Backlash 10 to 15 thou! middle is best 12.Tri to create the same pattern you see on the new gear set your installing! Low to center in the middle of the tooth! and endup with 12 thou and your laughin!The pinion nut needs to be 1200 to 1600 foot pounds!you need a 4 to one multiplier set the wrench to 350 and it will get you 1400 !Good enuff Put RED locktight on the pinion nut!Be sure to put the power divider inner cam with the grooves on the flat facing to the rear of the diff apon assembly so the oil can travel the tube! bull wheel cap torque 350 set the bull bearings to zero end play + one notch extra to engage the lock dowel!

Yup the gd crutch!We have had our share of this,The guided diag thing is a bit of a joke as well you can spend a good day doing all the steps in the dam thing and still come up with a dry hole!O the dpf is pluged well how did it get pluged all the temp readings were right,!As wrench said you can't read how the engine is running cause all of our sences have been taken away no smoke to read nothin, only a half baked computer program to look at that gives you half the story! 68 Don't get me all fired up on the meritor issue!The prostitutes of the parts world!The copy cats of the truck industry!There aint nothin they can't copy and screw up!

To Make sure were talkin apples to apples!The hose from the puff limit to the fuel pump should be capped off ! as Glenn pointed out.

Thanx for chiming in!I sumwhat agree with some of your comments Yup we need help lots of it!If Barry will see to it that you can join in on the Corporate forum Please get signed up. You will see what is being talked about. Your help will be greatly appreciated As for the mp ten we have only two here running the hyw and off road yup they need to buy better wiring. and Its nice to work on in the Titain which right now is the only model its offered in! As for bullet proof The mp engines replaced an already bullet proof engine that had the same crap bolted to it which also ruined that engine The base engine was good the bolt ons were trash as they are on the volvo Engine!The diffrence being it was easier to work on than the mp engines . you'll have to pardon my negitivity towards the mp but the out landish flat rate times they give you to do stuff is rediculus to say the least. Just getting to do half the tests you have to do for some of the most stupid problems that have already been learned by mack we are doing the same stuff over agian! I would really like you to take part in the corporate forum PLEASE contact BARRY and GET signed up Bro.

acording to the codes on this site http://www.nortrux.c...hp?page_id=1033 the fan is not working correctly!that should not affect the running of the truck! An 8-1 code would !No#1 unit pump failer!

Well thanx for the post!I aint never adjusted a wheel that way in 35 years of truck work But if thats a proper way then fine.

Burried where on the site?

You need to count the bull and spur too, there CAN be a difrence there as well!Pull the fill plug on the rear diff and count the teeth thru the hole! Jack it up and have somone turn the wheel and count!other wise you'll be in the same pickle jar!Make sure the rear matches the front!

SO the question IS practicality! THE Answer in my mind is NO! Not practical.

You'll have a nice lawn orniment when your done thou!

OK you 2, I seen this comin ! I'll nibble! I think it would be too costly to do! To time consuming to do ! Maybe once youv'e made your second Million and your semi retired then get a donor truck and swap all the wiring stuff over into your CH and Jerrys CX then it will be worth it!Dont forget the engine brain is on the other side of the engine on the older trucks theres a lot more to this than just poping off a turbo. And removing the egr cooler crap! huge can of worms! Just my opinion!

Naw My manual would resemble a comic book with hyrogliphics! unFortunatly those poeple are writers and don't know the open end from the ring end of a wrench !The guy I REALLY want to meet thou, is the guy that does the flat rate times for the new engines and stuff, He will be a true ledgend!These guys are greased lightning compared to almost anyone ,They do any job Twice as fast as anyone I Know , in almost All cases.AND the engines and stuff they work on work flawlessly when they are done.If you read the manual AND all the stuff they can acomplish in the Time given Its inspiring, He must be an Icon. That Guy is one Guy I would love to meet! maybe, His Greatness will Rub off on me, Heres for hopen! Untill then though I'll just GET IT DONE and hope for the best. honestly the american manuals arent to bad. You work on so Korean or Japan made stuff the translating is real poor! Its a real double wammy!

any one got an xray gun I can borrow so I can check the pump LOL! james Fresh Out Bro! Ahh yes Water pump Time!

Gambi How are you checking it Bro?Are you preasuring it up? Or are you just looking? Preasuring it up is the ONLY sure Fire way of finding leaks, And you need to Preasurize EVERYTHING at once the tubo the after cooler and the engine! I'm Not Trying to degrade you in any way!But somtimes people think just looking is good enough!Its NOT! If you havent already done so, your going to have to make testing equipment a rubber hose that will fit the turbo snail inlet and a bung to plug that with put regulated air to it 30-35 psi You may only need 10- 15 to find what your looking for cause it sounds like A big leak to me!You may also need to turn the engine sum to get the preasure to biuld and it will .If you don't find anything the turbo May be At fault I have seen turbos that will not spool properly right out of the box! But It sounds like a leak to me! Fred