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Is the engine an eteck e7 six small fuel pumps or a standard e7 one large fuel pump ?Electric or non electric? If you have the large electric fuel pump look for any worn wires leading to the tdc marker located at the side rear of the pump two wire plug! Next same pump there should be a big round plug 8 wires or so unlock the the lock ring 1/8 turn backwards and unplug and replug that plug 1/2 a dozen times and relock it and try it for several days c if the problem goes away if it does take it to a dealer and have them re pin both sides of that plug! good luck with it keep us informed we still may be able to help. Fred

Highly unlikly ! As HK said More a (Prevent) maintanance program problem.

Sounds like econovance is not working remove and check the line from the block to the econovance better still replace it!the econovance sol is likly fubar you may need to replace it!To determine if its roasted ground one side of the eonovance wire and put power to the the other if the engine cleans up and sounds diffent then its working there may be some other glitch but I doubt it!.The econovance soliniod is around 500 dollars to buy! Be aware there are two difrent gaskets be sure and take the old one with you to gat the corect one.There is one other thing you can try !There are /where some small screens in some of the ports on the econovance sol block ,remove the 4 bolts holding the sol block on and remover all the allen plugs around the out side of the block and look in the hole check to see that the screens have been removed if they havent been do so and reinstall it to try! this is a long shot at best cause the engine was running fine one day then not the next then healed it self for a time then back to bad again!

Let us no what ya find! If yer still having greif post and we'll see if we can help.

Bro The econovance will make the truck stumble and smoke blu on startup!If the engine starts and stumbles till the oil preasure comes up then starts to change sound and clean up the econovance is working as it should.I suspect you either have a loose jake sol or somthing!Bad injectors is not out of the question either. If the smoke is truely black .you may have a flapper in a hose blocking air to the engine, turbo may be not turning restricting flo or somthing along those lines.The jake stuck on produces grey blu smoke same as the timing advance!you either have an over fueling condition or and air starvation problem with black smoke.

Agree Weld the crack bolt the insert!If you are not a welder your best off doing it this way! If not done correctly just welding will break again. Also smooth the flanges as best you can that is where the crack will likly start again!

The range shift is locked in to one side or the other if you pull the lever into nutrel then lift the lever the everything is in free wheel the interlock helps prevent this!Nothin in there thats going to fly very far!

If you have a newer MR you may have the volvo front axle sealed means sealed and you wait for it to fail.not great but thats the way it is!

If you lift up on the range lever in gear and then take it out of gear you should hear it expell air then hear the range shift!If you hear rhe air expell and no range clunk its likly not the range valve more likly orings in the range cyl in the lid.They tend to get oil in them and have a little stickyness till the oil warms and thins out.

If I was in your shoes I'd be looking for a single axle dump on air ! Likly a Binder DT466 cheap and dependable .Or a 350 mack single axle ch with a dump body!either would be cheap on fuel and low maintance.

the trans gets system preasure.If the problem gets worse worry about it then once in the morning is not going to be much of a problem could be sticky orings.

Your method is correct!However begining of the end for the synro may be premature there is a good posibility that the synco is on its way out time will tell that!I would however check the yoke bolt on the rear of the trans to see if it is tight that can cause the same intermitant patern.

Bad flasher!

If you had the tab centered in the window @ 8 you should be ok to go if it seems alright probably is! 12 is normal idle timing Its running close to where it should for timing electricly the static is what will cause greif it needs to know where to start from. Or if that tone wheel has slipped it will ping and rattle or it will smoke retarded. it sounds like your ok ifits not pingng or smoking.If this all changes with out notice you will have to have the pump checked!otherwise leave it!

The engine needs oil preasure to power the econovance into an advanced timing to eliminate the smoke.

? how are you setting the timing! With what? I have run across engines( fuel pumps) where the tone wheel inside the pump has sliped and the engine does not know where its at!The puter gets its timing event from the plug on the side rear of the pump!the engine should stumble and sputter till the oil preasure comes up then it should clean up!The timing should be set static at 8 with the tone tab in the window where the event marker goes!Apply 12 volts to the timing acuator if the advance if it is working the engine will clean up and run smoother.if it doesent the timing sol is not working.

Serviced ? oil change? You could have a rear diff gone!Ususlly clunks don't come from trans area! or clutch area! Proper clutch adjustment if your clutch brake is set corectly is like this!Open the door of the truck put your right or left hand on the clutch pedal push light ly down there should be 1 1/2 of easy pedal till there is big resistance if its like that then its adjusted correctly.If its instantly hard then its past due for adjustment! Clunk problem !> Have seen steel bud rims crack and clunk check the rims if so equiped! Does the truck have MACK diffs IF so what ratio If 4:17 or 4:42 remove the top side cover of both diffs and look for missing teeth! The other thought I have before the top gear sets is to lock out the power divider see if the clunk goes away miss matched tires will cause the powerdivider to clunk! just a few places to start.

What is wrong with your clutch is it sliping?

It makes the power divider limited slip not the diffs!But Mack also made a differenial with the same set up contained in it!

The Mack power divider is a diffrent animal!It is is a series of piston like wedges with an inner and outer cam as one piston or wedge is forced out when wheels speeds are diffrent one is on its way in the iiner cam is offset it acts as a ratchet or limited slip only between axles.Is a very diffrent thing to try an discribe with out you actually seeing it!Bottom line think of it as a limited slip!

wlcome to the site! E6 engine has dri lners and less stroke than the e7, the e7 has wet liners more stroke and built somwhat heavier than the E6 also all the threading on E7 is metric! The jakes are not interchangable!

Stand down Naw!With out input nobody would get things fixed!Ya need to step up to the plate when ever possible!

Also Depending on where the compressor is plumbed in check the compressor inlet tubes .

The 460 with xt file will produce 40 psi on a cold day and We had seveal customers CLs that would hit 40 consistantly!It was quite common for the compressor wheels on these to pop in half ,that problem has since been repaired thou!

Ive seen it happen on All 4 valves sixes it was most prevelant on the eteck cause of the larger coarse thread studs.