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Is the turbo wastgated ?What kind of pyro numbers do you see loaded!

Rev the engine up to max rpm no load it should reach 2100 rpm if it dosent the linkage should be checked the throtle lever on the pump is likly not going full stroke at the pump. .

Brad Did you find the tc marks? If those are there so are are the valve set marks!Someone set the valves on it some time they have to be there.Anyway pull the lids look for valve overlap on #6 that will give you a rough idea where to look for marks No# 1 valves will be closed if valves are rocking on six!You can pretty much do a valve set on valve over lap if your stuck.

The valve set marks are marked on the fly wheel remove the cover on the very bottom of the flywheel housing rotate the engine till you see set valves 1-6 5-2 3-4 dead center in the window set in firing order 153624 yokes set with valves push down on the yoke turn the scre till it contacts the one flat beyond touching. 16 inlet 24 ehast 15 on the jake! Im also wondering if anyone can tell me why the expansion plug on the front side of the rocker arm shaft on both heads fell out could this be a factor in low oil pressure 14 at idle 50 Likley the jake won,t work either.

12v to em will make em click you should be able to hear them!

Look on the front of the diff just off to the lower passanger side of the input housing there is a flat spot top right hand corner you'll find the ratio. Your looking for nos like 3.87 / 4.17 / 4.42 / 4.64

good call Bad Dog! I totally agree with fhese coments and highly recomend checking them first before doing anything , the adjustment you will b making is the fuel delivery adjustment. pictures of the front of the pump would be in order here to see if the puff limit is still operating!

OK behind that 4 bolt tin cover you will find a jam nut 3/8 with and allen screw thru the center( I BEleive )If I remember corectly loosen the screws jam nut and turn the the screw out one half turn and lock the jam nut And give it a try for power Its been years since I been inside that style governer but, If that dont doit or reduces the power turn it back the other way 1 turn ! once you find which direction does the trick tweek as desired don't go to hay wire with the turns youll kill the thing!

If you post a picture of the back of the fuel pump where the stop lever comes out I MAY be able to tip ya on a few tweeks. And I also agree with Thad on the Gramps truck thing ya don't wan't to go to far!A ten speed trans idicates to me it May be a 375 hp engine ya need to keep the rpms up a bit on these.

Pretty straight forward as long as you get all the bits!Is this an electrontic engine.

Its likly inside, common failures broken snapring on the tail shaft broken shift rails in the back section.The shift lid prevents air type failures it has a lock out pin inside that will not let the trans be in rev and forward at the same time unless somthig is broke.

That would be interesting Thad! See if all the recalls are on the mack side!I highly doubt it because its money out of pocket for them reguardless.

Well done Bro!

Things to try! If the eml light is working it should turn on then go out on key up!If it doesent! repair it! once repaired and IF it comes on and goes out There are no active codes If you have an active code you can pull an active blink code from the dash switches (unless its disabled) by == Don't quote me its been a while but I beleive key on speed control off press and hold the set resume switch till the light goes out watch the eml light for blinks ,count the blinks and post em! DO NOT!!!!! togle the speed control on/ off switch 3 times you'll dump the the idle down to 500! don.t have the code list here at home but 68 might remember or have an idea about the codes!I can get the code list ,tues ,when I m back at work! Also just for kicks !a quite common spot for a wiring oil preasure glitch is where the wire to the oil switch is clamped to the oil cooler just in front of the starter Take the clamp off there and take a good look at the wire in that area! Also I think you can deek out the putor at the o/p switch with a paper clip jumping the wires together the puter asumes a short! heres a write up In a stopped position with your unit OFF, Turn the key to the ON position and wait until the power-up test is finished. 2. The malfunction warning light must stay on after the power-up test is finished in order to properly retrieve your 2 digit "blink" fault code. 3. With the speed control ON/OFF switch in the OFF position, PRESS & HOLD the SET/DECEL or the RESUME/ACCEL switch until the fault lamp goes OFF. 4. The fault lamp will remain OFF for approximately one second. 5. Immediately after, the VMACIII Module will begin to flash a two-digit blink code. 6. The two digits of the code will be separated by a one second pause (fault lamp will be off). 7. Each digit of the blink code may consist of up to ten ON/OFF flashes. The ON/OFF time for each flash will be one-fourth of a second. 8. Count the number of blinks or ON flashes in the first set of flashes and how many times in the second set of flashes. 9. You now have your fault code. E.g.: 1-7. *Check the Fault Code Identification Table to trace your problem* o/p possibly 1-1 code over heat possibly 1-2 code the codes posted are for 98 0r newer

Is the red shut down light coming on ORRRR s the eml light on or both?If both are on I would take a guess at the oil preasure sensor being bad.The engine will shut down after 1 minute under 3 conditons low oil psi high coolant temp OR SUM TIMEs low coolant depending on how its set.

We finally sold our one and only Titan!Get a few on the road who knows maybe we'll sell a few more!We'll see. The tail lights aint left the drive way yet but were close! My coment on the second in Canada was false appearantly several have been sold in Quebec ,If that counts? Sometimes I wonder.

Thanx for posting your fix!

I Third It. Stability! Get Camel back if you can find it!

Have to agree! An old Bob Serger song comes to mind! Take them old pistons off the shelf put em back in there by yourself todays pistons anit got the same soul! So put em back in there respective holes. You get the drift!

Are you possitive the piston coolers are aimed correctly!the coolers got to hit the piston correctly or they can over heat!We have cooler targets to check em after liner install. the spray for the cooler needs to head basicly straight up from the nossle hitting 5 or 7 oclock on the piston, stick a welding rod in it and see where its heading! as you said the injector spray looks fine

Electrics are not that bad till 2004 You will find very few options out there non electric. pre 93 best option. This will be an eteck engine electronic not a bad unit depending on its treatment.If you looking at it and it is a dump truck Run the other way. this model is a street machine not a work truck.you will be looking to a pre 94 maybe to get any thing non electric 300 or less hp , You need to be looking at 96 or better CL 713 427 or 460 hp electric but the second best dumper around in my opinion!THE first best being an RD pre 90s 350 or 400 6 cyl.

Have you checked the oil in the trans lately!Is it over full ?These trucks have a trakck record of oil cooler failures!

The splines go where ever! the timing is done from the cover on the front of the engine.Remove the frontcover there are 4 bolts holding a gear!Remove those bolts carfully not to drop the washers, remove the gear turn the engine to timing marks on the flywheel and set on the correct mark for that engine . Then Please post a picture of the fuel pump we will be able to guide you better once we have this!Your speach is fine.Pictures will help alot thou to guide you thru.

Seems like a lot of work for no gain ! Why would you do this?

Agreeded!