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In my area the 417/ 442 are not a long lived ratios they tend to give out soon depending on aplication! the thru shaft bearing is easy to change But pull the side cover and have a real close look at the top gear set before ya just asume its the bearing!And as stated the top end seeks its own level it was not low 1 to two knuckles down is common!

The seal is mounted in the the flywheel housing!You have to replace the seal either way There is no possible way for the oil to get from outside to in!You can remove the seal with out the housing but not the other way around. A common leak on an eteck is the bell housing to block! near where the cam shaft bore is! we often grind a relief in housing at the inside of the cam location in case the cam plug leaks.(If we have the housng off) That leak is internal leak you discribe can only come from 3 sources on the engine ,the seal, a crack in the housing,or the bolts that hold the housing to the block!The other sourses being the trans. Hope this helps

Sorry no one got back to you on this!! First step The engine speed sensor is mounted on the flywheel housing check to see if it is not open or shorted this here is most likly your problem replace the sensor screw it in till it touches the flywheel then back it out! 1/2 to 1 turn and snug jam nut!(Note more than spec air gap will cause the same symtoms) If it has rob bosch pump ! it needs 15 psi fuel preasure to run.The econovance is your next step!When the engine starts ,does it sputter and slober till the oil preasure comes up? Then clean up? If not you may have a econovance problem.The engine speed sensor is mounted on the flywheel housing check to see if it is not open or shorted this here is most likly your problem replace the sensor screw it in till it touches the flywheel then back it out 1 turn and snug jam nut! check that first. hope this helps Fred

that big lump retains the pinion gear !Behind it are shims not a gasket!you need to pay good atention not to loose any shims! its are relitivly heavy peice be prepared to struggle some! remove it clean each shim wth a rotory wire brush cup or emery the shims both sides till they shine reassemble with a light film of sealant between each shim note the drain holes to the lh side the shims need to line up with the holes in the housing. As for the oil burn check the air cleaner and inlet to the engine for oil could be coming from the compressor.

Never seen a four bag MH !Cats yes, cummis no, e6 e7 e9 yes. Ford made the for bag cab! we called it the Two story Edsel seen it with cat, kt cummins, maybe others.horrible peice of junk! a jumble of left over car parts and bathtub enclosure peices.

I don't trust anything with a see thru bowl on it when chasing problems like this bypass the filter and try it. also replace the fuel drain back valve on the block if the problem persists!

By the way Don't pre select the split!If your going to split bereadyto do so don't select and wait! It plays hell on the shift fork!And if its and rd it is not a nice thing to repair!The last split is a bear too do try the tricks in the last link they may help some.

how much boost can you make?

Jack up the back wheel on one side put it in high gear and bump it back and forth like that

I wish they would work on a dif lock for the mack diff !But I know if the volvo guys have a hand in it ,it will get too tecky and over complicated!Better watch what I wish for huh! Look no further than the pictures of the GU with the hood open tecky rad mount tecky steering bracket tecky and comlicated rad rad bottle bracket.They could build a whole lot cheaper truck by simply un engineering the over engineered.And still out class a pete or KW.

As the era of the 5 year truck begins its nice to see At least this dealer had the good sence to order real mack components. Most of our stuff is coming in with meritor stuff!Most guys like locking diffs here and the mack diff hasnt offered that yet! Its nice to know the rear ends will still be intact when the rest of the truck will be long gone!

Another common spot on an RD is the plug at the rh cab harness take a 1/4 inch socket and unscrew that plug that goes to the fire wall and heck to see if it is corroded!Most of thes fixes pertain to how the engine runns I can't think of a reason that the wipers would go on there own!

remove the kick panel in front of the glovebox check the plug on the vehicle ecu for corrosion

YET!

Unplug the preasure sensor on the ac condenser the green one and try another fuse

Rob there was never any packing just a slip joint!A piston ring affair at the turbo tubes!

Agreed!Guess things aren't as badas they could be!

Your Either idling it too much or your running to cold if your getting slober at the joints. there are no fixes that Really work well!

Remove 6 bolts of the top cover of the governer housing at the rear of the pump at the front of the opening you'll see the stop plate holder take your 1/2 inch open end and loosen the rear nut 1/2 a turn, tighten the front nut the same .put the lid on and try it! Try not to exceed 30 psi boost. REMEMBER A candle that burns twice as bright lasts half as long! Have fun.

I think if you look hard on the turbo inda is printed sumwhere.

Yet another money grab???

We sold 2 magnums here one same as that one and one MH both are long since gone Of the dosens of MH COs sold in this neck of the woods I hardly see any on the road now!there is still a few RWs still up and at em but and lots of good ol RDs and CHs Its a shame the MH in my mind was the BEST cabover Ever built by ANYONE.I'm not saying I like Cab overs Or anything about em, Just that It was one of the Best.

We have designated computer for the vads!We wiped out ALL unnessary windows programs games and crap that comes with the windows OPS the dam thing is still as slow as all get out!BUT it dosent error out nearly as often! Speaking of programs that is another expence to add in to a dealers bottom line!I,m not blaming Volvo for this stuff cause Mack did the same stuff for years We got esentul tools weve never used from vmac 1 era Fuel pump drive alinment tool,H ring installer Never touched one! the list goes on! The new tools for the tightening of fuel lines that leak anyways and endup having to tighten em by feel .Its pretty much a crock! Then the customer wonders why the shop rate is so high. the above is all part and parcel of the expences!included is the time it takes to stand watch a slow computer program work

AMEN brother >It all makes sense now. Now I know why my VCADS program is a piece of sh*t< Did you look at all the essental tools you NEED To HAVE to work on your new trucks break out harnesses yada yada The only people making the doe here is volvo if they don't make it selling the odd, truck their going to make it selling us tools to work on em !

Those make alot of noise when the engine runs! Been there done that one too!The engine will run after too! at least it only cost you a couple of gaskets. You never confirmed was the gasket in one peice? Dosent much mater as somone could have repaired it after the damage was done.chasing this smoke problem. the absolute best thing to do is remove them insulaters till the head is back on its real easy to spin them little devils into thw inlet on install.