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So yup thats another place to start there should be very little smoke thou I find that worrisome. 15-24 psi would be good.

Are you doing the job your self? If I were you, find a used cam buy the the new lifters and skip the push rods unless there real damaged! The new lifters will not do what has happened to your old ones there made diffrently and will outlast you.

Did you change pistons. It Sounds like you may have gotten the wrong pistons by what your discribing! Did you buy your parts by serial number?? On the older engines there where two type of pistons I beleive. Barry may be able to help ya here I,m a wrench not a parts guy. Email Barry @watts and he may be able to straighten you out IF you have got the wrong pistons!

What HP is the engine? Did you set the timing? What does the fuel pump say on it for timing?

To test the heads run 12v from a power souce ie: start relay hot side directly to the head with the engine running it should fire the jakes!If it dont then the solnoids can be haywire!If it takes a few tempts to gt em to work you may need to rebuild the heads .

An 03 is an eteck engine the crank vent is at the front. or on the valve cover!

I beleive the engine switch is faulty from what you discribe , if the switch feels rough to push in change it!

I beleive you have to reflash the ecu to get rid of passwords.

My other concern here would be the lines make sure your line screw on to the pump!The lines on E6 are sae at the head end Im not sure about the pump end I imagine they were metric on both e6 and e7 on the pump end Duno

My first guess is your throtle lever is not set deep enough into the switch that runs it! its on the thotle lever on the fuel pump.

Jake or dynatard?

Glen I beleive the pump will fit as long as the engine is a later model transision engine with the aluminum front cover 4valve engine, the blocks were drilled to fit either or pumps they simply put plugs in the holes where the robby pump would have been,trick is to find an engine that was set up for this.Bare in mind the e7 is metric the e6 sae,I'm not sure about the gears thou .I have never tried this !The e7 sort of evolved from the e6 parts wise from what I could see the front cover was changed to aluminum shortly before the e7 was intoduced the pump flanges on the e6 came drilled for robert bosch even thou they still used ambac.There were engnes produced with the up dated aux shaft with the ps pump drive splines on the front but had the tin front cover still ,It seened like they were tooling up for e7 while still producing e6 Duno the reasons behind what they did just know they did it!

I second that!

I have run across the main air line that feeds the spring brake relay plugged with goo causing a slow or no release problem just another thingto look for.

That is quite normal for these engines There is a crank case breather kit avaliable to help with that problem.It moves the vent from the front of the engine to the valve cover where it belongs anyway .

E9s started out red then robins egg blue then gray beleive it or not!

Change the clutch cable!The clutch cables can feel fine with no load on them but once loaded they become stiff.

If your unit is shutting down on low coolant high water temp or low oil psi both lights will light eml and the shut down light. Bad sensor on any of three sensors or a bad wire.We set all of our customer engine to NOT shut down on low coolant. its easier that way only two choices. Both of which will show on gauges.

The fuel pump is the most common! loss of power blu smoke and stumble. If ya got a parts truck remove and replace block check first the pump should put out no less than 60 psi.

Its likly one of 2 things the check valve at the out let of the block Or the fuel transfer pump at the front.If I was a bettin man my call would be the transfer pump havig said that if you have any filters with plastic bowls on them eliminate them from the system first!

Depending on how it was kept Basicly Bullet proof!

fLYWHEEL PTO To remove you will need a new clutch a new input shaft and bell housing!You will odviously have to relocate the engine mounts.

The econovance is electric over hydralic it runs off oil preasure!Start the engine it should stutter and stumble till the oil preasure comes up then clean up if its not doing that the econovance solnoid is likly fubar!You need a pro link or computer to watch the timing . Simular post to yours http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?showtopic=9600

Mack E-7 350. electronic governer ????If so you may have a econovance issue.If not electronc try running the engine from a pail of clean fuel it may be sucking air.

As stated gasketsinch, I have found this method to work well ,apply Two coats to the lid two coats to the gasket let it dri between coats stick the gasket to the lid after a 10-15 minute dri time assemble to a clean oil free surface.silicone is an absolute no no.