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We only sold a few of these but fom what I remember the jake was on one seting and both on the other.

Low operates jake only! hi operates jake and stealth.if you want it to work properly the steath needs to be there!

stealth is a jake/ exshast combo They usually work well when both are workng!Can you hear the jake working? can you feel a diffrence between hi an low setting?

Beer can will work too! Shim material is good as well Never had that problem with the joined gasket!

Welcome to the site! Are you using the one peice gasket the old style gasket came with open ends the new style the ends are joined. we used to put a slice of aluminim pop can in the corners to hold them in if using the old style.A 1/4 inch sliver of pop can an inch long usually did the trick. But we have had no problems with the new style gasket.

I would like a little more info!What year is the truck! Is the exhast temp down or up!You may have a failing fuel transfer pump. or bad drain back valve low exhast temp!How many times was the code logged for the failed eup.The other thing is if you changed the pump your self you need to have the eup cal code installed in the ecu for perfect injection control.

I beleive the arrows face out!If you did put them in back wards I highly doubt you would hurt anything!But also if you put them on the inside you can't see them at all that would make no sence for assembly purposes .The main thing is to have them all the same direction! this is a lesson to keep your tires the same size if possible! Have you replaced the inner and outer cam as well?If you are replacing the outer cam be sure to use lock tight on the nut and its torque is 1200 ft pounds or one heavy duty 1 inch air impact!And the inner cam needs the slots facing the rear! or it wount oil correctly. just a few pointers!

I would have a reputable welder repair the crack and install the insert if its out of warrenty.They arent putting them inserts in there for nothin! We have done only one of these and the truck had been severly punished!Not impling your beating it Because there was an odvious problem with the rails if It had tsb.

Chip check out the other blow by post! http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?showtopic=8344

68 It maybe the turbo You might try building one of these and see if the turbo is causing this! http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?showtopic=8344

Mainly for me anyway It has taken any pride I had in the product I have worked on for the passed 30 years and chucked it down the tube!The above statment ,the hood and the bulldog on it I stated 2 years ago this will happen in my opinion, there aint much left now you need only get on your creeper and coast under a mack and a volvo and you will have a hard time seeing many diffrences.Once the cab is gone it will be the same old same old. Autocar GM White volvo mack! Had they left in place some of the solid mack tried and true ideas in the construction stuff they would still have somthng to brag on! BUT that aint gona happen. there riding on the coat tails of a once Great product subsituting rubish in its place!

Well done, And your welcome. Anytime.

Good to hear! Did you use the over lap method or did you Finally find marks ?I cant tell ya why ,but every mack engine with a dynatard cam will do as you discribe I accept it they have been that way since Ive been working on them!But When you think on it, as the slave fills on the dynatard it takes up the 24 thou set plus 70 thou so there in lies the depression just before tdc. It likly lets the slave fill to its fullest extent ! Even if the engine has a jake or no jake the cam will have a dynatard bump for the most part!The DT cam is standard issue no matter which brake or if no brake is installed!The E 6 came without no brake cam earlier on ,but as time ticked on it was standard on E6 engines reguardless ,all came with the depression and bump.E7 it was always standard issue.

You need to check liner protrusion once the heads are off!22 thou min 28 is better . head torque is 210 - 220 wouldnt hurt ,manifold 55. inlet man 35-45, injector nut 55 rockers 45 If the liners are below 20 we need too talk! valve set is usually stamped on the cover 24 ex 16 intake jake usually 15. All them numbers are off the top of my head but close I don't have a manual in my back pocket!

Good!To add Another trick , mark the damper on the first three as the next three come up you don't need to watch the valves.

The marks should be on the flywheel the small cover on the bottom with 6 bolts !If you can't find em ,To get it close do it the old fashoined way !Valve overlap!Get the valves on number 6 rocking (one going down one going up!) Set the valve on( one) move along in firing order ================= 153 ========================== ========================= 624 see how I have placed the numbers above?? look at the bottom and set the top #/ then look at the top and set the bottom#! It will run.Thous pistons are married to each other on the exsact same stroke doing a diffrent job at the exsact same time. Give it a go it will run.

Brother ,I don't really under stand your problem but !If your talking about the orings on the injectors they simply have done away with the lower oring on the injector it is not needed the steel washer seals the bottom and the first oring fom the bottom does not need to be there,As for your compression problem Its not injector problem !Your valveset or timing is out some where if you have no compression. Is it a vmac or mech governer.???If you get the oring in the wrong place the injecton line will leak at the head. Are you sure the fuel is getting to the injectors!

Ya guess its pretty low tech 2 1/4 slabs with mud flap glued to it . and 2 hi tech peices of ready rod. Nessitiy is the mother of invention.

Two more pics of the tool on the bench!Its a bit of a hastle to hook up but it will check every nook and crevice for leaks even tests the boost bypass valve on the asset engine.To check for blow by issues you need to remove the turbo drain tube .also on the asset engine you must remove and plug off the turbo bypass valve if your not checking it!

Here are some snaps of the turbo test tool we made for checking asset and other engines for exhast /boost leaks and blow by problems via failing turbos. just thought Id post em . would like to see what others are useing for these tests.

what kind of boost is it making? Does it smoke black under load?Does the pyro read high 900 +

Ok check the fuel preasure 20 psi or more the better What trans do you have if the engine is only making 15 or so psi boost check the torque limit switch on the trans unplug it if its hooked up see if that helps!

Good catch Bro!

I would head in the direction you have been pointed, T in a fuel preasure gauge at the fuel pump and check preasure there full load it should not drop below 20 psi full load .If it does check all the lines and if they are clear check to see the drain back valve spring is not broken,I'm kinda working blind here and am assuming its not e7 or vmack. transplant.

I have seen this many times on these units most of them boiled down to the air drier leaking internally! remove the small air line at the air drier install a temporary guage on the end and watch the guage if the gauge stays put once the compressor unloads you have an air drier problem! replace the air drier again.