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GOOD JOB BUD Apears to be an rd 800 or dmm your working on???

Nope sure isn't!Whish you the best of luck!We Have had succes raising the liners and putting it back together!You run the risk of creating an oil burner if you don't deglaze and re ring throu!Some thing to try!! worst part is your right there at the rebuild point! and doing a patch job. ? the idea but if your budget isn't there your budget isn't there.ya got to do what you got to do!

Rob Theres been a problem with the liner protution on these engines anything pass 400 horse the liner protusion needed to be set at 28 thou .Unfortunatly the liner height in your engine is likly set at low spec for a low HP engine which will be aprox 22 !if the engine has any milage on it beyond say 300 thousand miles it maybe the liners are set too low. thousands of engines left the factory like this most lived a good life others din't cut the mustard depending on the job they were doing. WHAT milage is on the engine???? sealing up the hole will do no good!You can try plugging the hole in the water pump to prove its not sucking air from there other than that I have no encoragment!Repairng the problem is just short of a rebuild entails up rooting the liners shiming them with 4 thou shims and resealing them IF they are Not too worn other wise!And installing new rings and deglazing the liners if reusable!

I see ya have the robert bosch pump did you set the valves on the v mark?

Anything much more than 350 and your pushing the limit. You also have to be carfull how much fuel you give it BECAUSE you can crack the block if you over fuel to much!And you will have nothing to rebuild, I have seen em crack at the sixth main cap from being over fueled!That is why the block was changed when the e7 came along The main caps were then bolted to the block thru the sides simular to V8 !The same block used right from the 250 to the 454 The eteck block is also built in this fashion!The New VOLMAC engine is a total diffrent animal More complex mor volvoized!

Would you please clarifi if you have a V pump ( AMBAC) Or Robert Bosch! If you have robert bosch use the v pointer to set the valves . The p pointer is for instalation of the fuel pump! If your using the v pump then the tdc pump pointer valve set pointer are all the same one mounted right hand lower of the timing cover directly behind the AC pump if equiped!If the directions you have are not for the robert bosch style pump engine which was intoduced in the late 80s early 90s there will be no mention of the second pointer.the manul u are useing may not be for that engine! Rule of thumb ! If that engine has a STRAIGHT fuel pump ( ROB Bosch) USE THE V Pointer to set valves If it has an ambac pump that looks like a mini v8 in the valley then use the tdc pointer to set valves. By the way if it has the rob bosch pump the fuel lines can be a real bear to get sealed to the injectors ,be prepared to buy several injection lines before your done!

is it low air buzzer??????? I beleive you are correct

You can't set the cam timing wrong its doweled! V is valve set p, is pump timing ! Set at V in firing order! They changed the pump timing some when they moved to the robert bosch pump for some reason.the other stuff your reading is likly for an engine equiped with the ambac fuel system they use the same pointer for timing and valve set on those!

We are having to go thru all the dpf trucks as they come in, check all the coolant hoses and run em thru the regento make sure they funtion correctly it seems to be a comon occurance.Sure hope they nip this in the bud quickly! We got 4 mr dpfs we even got the first one that made the whole trip up here with out a break down!!!! Good sign EHH!!??? Yet another desaster???? Or learning curve??????????

You may have bad unloder orings in the compressor head depending on your compressor they can be easy or hard to change! If you have a 700 bendix its easy if you have a 500 bendix its dificult! take the small line off the air drier while the compressor is pumping between 90 and 130 if there is air coming out the line the problem is in the unloader !

FIRST which pump do you have robert bosch or ambac? If its ambc you likly need to replace the triger tab inside the pump! BUT you can try backing the screw out till it works correctly! loosen the jam nuts on the out side and back the screw out 2 or three turns rev the engine and let it off it the brake works but shuts down after half the rpm range then your half way there. turn the screw in 1/4 at a time till if at top rpm the brake dosent come on! Snap the throtle at the top rpms Quickly and hold it at top rpm if the brake trys to come on ,back the screw out sum more! If it dosent come on turn the screw in till it comes on!Ya hve to mess with it a bit to get it right if you cant acheave a desent set where the brake comes on then shuts off at aprox 1000 rpm you likly need to replace the triger tab!the Rob bosch pump is the exsact oposite!

yes your relay does ground to the injection pump that is the triger for the relay. and yes it is adjustable to a point!! What problems are you having? Is the engine brake sticking on?

I wouldn't tear into it till it becomes unbearable.but thats me!

Unless you have some sort of pre lube system your stuck!The system needs the oil preasure to operate correctly

Your best bet is to get some good used rockers and push tubes for a dynatard setup!The dynatard is built into the cam lobe and all the cams were the same .

In my opinion you'll easy do 7 or so with that ratio! and resonable driving habits! The 612 sounds like a single axle is it not?

Post the vin and the model maybe We can help some?

The E Tech engine has always had renaut cast into it every where the side of the block the valve covers its every where!

Count your self lucky! You have the last of the best! HOLD ON to it.The Cl with e7 is the easiest serviced truck on the planet! Volvo tends to complicate EVERYTHING they touch the trucks produced from here on will be as compicted as they can make em!Hate to say it BUT Simplicity of the mack line is gone.

if your runing a v8 the 417 387 ratio is a poor choice!The v8 will eat them for breafast if your pulling any weight! Middle of the road choice is 4.64! 5 02 change down requires a lot of gear changing and can get pricy!Good luck in your search thou used drop ins are your best bet.

I'm not arguing at all ,just simply stating what can and has happened!IT takes and hour to pull the pan! and find out for sure, guessing at it can cost money!A pan gasket is cheap peace of mind at least youll no where your heading!If the block is cavitated you can cheat (This Is A PATCH) by up rooting the liner clean the bottom of the bore and the liner and apply red loctight around the bottom 1/2 inch of the bore and slide the liner back in!The correct thing to do is bore and sleeve!Depends on what you want in the end!

You da man Rob! Agian good job !Idle should be set at 650 I hate it when they idle fast!

Remove the bolt 5/8 12 piont! clean out the hole a bit with brake clean Apply sealant to the washer and bolt head re install and torque to 90 foot pounds!

No kidding! Volvo land here we come!

Do check it out the line kit was just one of many fixes for poor response some were as deep as a diffrent oil pump and P 2 main bearings . Best to stick with external fixes this late in the game!You may have to pull the lids and have somone with a little experiance have a look see!