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I would still pull the pan before the heads and preasurize! Also just because its a dri liner dosent stop cavitation the block it self can still cavitate And leak between the liner and the block seen it happen!

I know this is a bit late and an old post but ,I have to say that the Volvo engine does look to be a decent power plant Mack guy!THIS IS THE ONLY UPSIDE TO MY COMENTS. Having said that MackGuy ,I have worked, on , for and around Mack trucks for most of my working life 30 years OR SO ,as well as the volvo stuff fords kw PETES and the rest to some degree!The truck we sell now is a Volvo with a mack cab! DON'T KID US, THE volvo people have KEPT NONE, of the Good mack IDEAS ,NOT ONE! THE dog on the hood and the cab is all thats left.You take the cab off the frame its a volvo frame ,engine and abunch of jobber parts. SORRY its for the most part the truth I was once a proud mack guy now I work on Volvo stuff ,I have less kinder words for it but won't use it here!These Guys could have at least kept some of the simple Ideas and used them`NOT ONE did they keep! SO FAR ONLY THING I SEE that I MILDLY like is the engine IMPRESS me with some good old simple MACK stuff ont the rest of the truck ! Mack diffs mack trans mack built tough frames suspention yada yada! Sorry had to rant! l

The valve set marks are on the flywheel!Those marks you found ARE valve set marks!. Set in order of firing order if it has a jake set it at the same time!

Good job Bud! The hardest part is geting the both racks engaged into the yoke!If ya miss one side you can have a big oh shit on your hands! Beender dondhat.

The other option you have is A 99 % pto off the lower counter shaft !Check the rear case may have stamped pto on it if so the hole is there!Remove the lower counter shaft cover and if it has a hole in it Your in business!

The problem is the rad!You need 460 cooling if your going to up grade!For years they didn't offer the 460 in the MR Because Of this!

Proper Liner height for E7 Is 23 to 28 thou from the deck to the middle of the liner inside groove! Any horse power above 400 your asking for trouble at anything less than 25 thou!

Rob be sure to set the engine on the timing marks BEFORE you pull the pump!This can be done by removing the little rectangle cover in front of the fuel pump and look for a small hole in the pump drive hub! Centre the hole in the window!

I also work for a mack dealer ! We might not sell the volvo trash but you and I are working on it unfortunatly!The cab is now the only thing remotely Mack any more!

Not oil preasure related on this engine! this is comon to the ambac pump !The governer is your culpret!The problem can be addressed by a (GOOD) fuel shop, The governer can be removed and repaired for less than 1000 bucks!

A more reliable way to Identify 44 houseing ,is the 44 is cast steel ,the 38 is a welded housing!

Well I'm sorry to hear that, Sounds like you tried everything The fact that they are not standing behind that clutch bothers me ,With that low of miles regarless of the year warrenty I would do a little badgering and see if they will kick in a little on the price of that second clutch!

CL MH RW all have comon frame!The RW shared the same frame with with the w model cab over and when the MH cabover came out The RW shared that frame with the MH When the MH was fazed out the CL took the frame over! Until the Volvo people got hold of things !Now its all Volvo trash. The cab and the Bulldog is all that remains.I beleive the MR is still its own truck ,But likly not for long!If you get a chance to compare a mack to a Volvo some day take a close look at the Simular if not exsact frames bracketry as Volvo /Autocar<From the Cxn / VN to the pinicale / Autocar

Remember to take the ratio off the flat spot off the front lh side this will aid in your search. The most comon failure o 4:17 - 4:42 ratio is the top gear set the spur pinion rarely fails but it does happen from time to time! Usually the clamp plates back off!

For me it does !I can't give you exsact ratios offered in that style of diff! the road speed you want is in the range I previously posted thou!

5:02 or 4:64 would get you in the ball park! Problem might be you have a front loaded diff! ????

I Garrenty ya if you have the clutch set this way ,The measurments will be in the ball park!

DO NOT set the clutch the way spicer tells ya to Forget their measuments. .There out to lunch! Start over please !It may save you alot of work. Set the clutch brake at the very, very bottom of the pedal with the external adjustment and go from that!To much free pedal Betcha this is what you'll have to do >>>(back the ring out) OR not likly>>>> (not enough free pedal turn the ring in)<<Not likly. 1 to 1 1/2 at the top try it and lemeno! I will check here in a couple of days. Then if it dosent work then pull the clutch agian. I have fixed several slipping problems by doing this!You may have a bum clutch but, humor me try this set! After that.You may have a Bum clutch. OR Is it possible you have the wrong torque rating on the clutch???? Is it a reman?? Fred

I realize this is an old post but if your still having greif try it! Try this! Set the clutch brake via the out side linkage (where the clutch cable attaches to the arm the upper portion of the arm has an adjustment ) adjust that adjustment so you can just get the clutch brake to work at the floor RIGHT at the bottom!Now go up and check your free pedal! Is there any? If not whined the clutch ring in till you get 1 1/2 inch at the top of the pedal and see if this helps your problem! IF You have too much free pedal you need to back the ring OUT in the opposite direction to get that 1 1/2 free pedal!It all hinges on that clutch brake being set at the bottom!If its not set at the bottom and you do an internal adjustment and its an EASY pedal clutch you throw the geometry out to lunch and it will slip! Give it a try hope this helps ya out!