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I know there are a few guys here that and have run and worked on these ! So I thought id put it out here ! A while back I purchased this unit! the brakes had been pined together so I hadn't noticed that the right hand brake is not operating goes right to the floor and the reisvour is full ! No leaks any where so I'm assuming the Master cyl is toast on that side! I got two new master cylinders and am about to replace them ! Has Anyone here had a go at doing these ? Bleeding them looks not to be the easiest affair so was hoping there was someone here with some tips! I'm finding this machine is a changeover year for a lot of the parts the hydraulics and brakes have different kits for serial number 20000 and lower ! you can't just order for 580k and get the right stuff! That said I managed to get the cyls for this and thought if anyone here has dealt with this issue they might post there experience ! The Broken Tractor dudes seem to have a good handle on the part situation their selection is good but as far as info not so much on a lot of stuff! I don't have a service manual And there is very little on line u tube stuff! And what there is is in Spanish! Not helpful! Thanx in advance!

I suggest you follow up on the first stuff posted by Joe there! Cheep and easy stuff first ! Also if you can poke around above the trans there and see if the are any wires that could be rubbed together the torque limit switch is a 2 wire switch that may or may not be used on the Spicer trans! even if the switch is not there the wires likely are and could be rubbed together ! Is the speedo working? ensure that there are no other switches at play!( Fifth wheel slide)( Air Ride Dumped) those type of switches! I don't recall if these were equipped with these safe guards or not BUT keep them out of the picture by having them turned off! Note the torque limit will cut the power by 50%!

So what trans is behind this engine is it a Mack trans? Or fuller! There is a torque limit switch that could be at play here on a Mack trans also ! If there is no check engine light on ! there is something holding back on the power the computer does not see! as joey mentioned grounds and battery / starter connections(top of list) places to start! ! Note the check engine light will likely be on now due to a miss match code between VECU and The EECU at this point!

Possible Fuel starvation? How’s the fuel pressure! Check you fir tank vent for starters! Check and clean the tack pu on the flywheel housing ! Clean the grounds below the starter all good first looks!

Like A bullet!

What he said!😃liner height over 24 -28 is best!

Yup agree keep us posted!

That’s exceptional boost for a 350 your fortunate!

It can contribute! A strong/ fresh 350 25 - 28 psi / 460 33 - 38 ! If your trailing Smoke under a pull you may have a boost leak, another symptom is if you have a pyrometer it will raise quick! Can't emphasize enough ! You have to take in to account the age and what's worth spending for what your doing! oil is cheap in some ways! just stuff to consider!

exactly the route I would take if I was in your shoes!pop the heads off in a lump don’t take everything apart leave manifolds on! Pull the pan pop out the pistons ball hone the liners be careful not to hit piston coolers new rod and mains re ring and reassemble!likely cost a lot less than ten k and worth the effort in your case and if it goes sideways in a few years you aren’t out much!

In my mind its all in what you intend to do with it! If you intend on keeping it and its a daily work horse then you could spend the bucks! How ever how far does one go with it! ? You can get into this for 30000 K and what is the unit worth? If your mechanically minded You could pull the heads pop out the the pistons re ring it! Economically and pop it back together! that would likely deal with the oil consumption blow by issue ! how ever you still got to consider how long will the liners last till they leak etc. I could go on and on! Its a catch 22! How much will insurance pay you if the truck gets wrote off? if it costs 10 bucks in oil day after day of running add it up! And as Joe mention Skilled labor these days NOT The greatest!

The This is a keep it working fix ! Don’t forget these engines ran good for years with fixed timing econovance was added for emissions reasons! The 350 was offered with either or in the transition year!

Teck Tip ! DON'T Idle ! Too much idle Not enough work makes Mack a dull boy! 🤣

I have seen these go way over 30 thousand hours! If it ain't broke don't fix it! Comparatively speaking oil is cheap!

Please do! I am not a fan of doing this but it has worked as a get by in the past ! As parts have been hard to get for a long time!

To disarm you want to cap off the oil line! To the econovance! remove the timing event sensor turn the engine till the spade shows up in the hole where the timing event marker gets its message! Remove the 5 bolt cover at the front of the fuel pump. Remove the bolts holding the pump gear remove the gear! Go to the flywheel housing at bottom remove the six bolt cover observe where the timing is set should be 6 or 10 initial timing! Advance. The engine to timing up to 15-20 put the gear back in ensure the spade stays central in the timing event hole as you tighten the gear bolts the (holes are slotted)and reassemble you can run the engine with the cover off to test run not much oil in that area ! See if that works ok you can tweak the timing higher if you wish ! Just remember that you started with six or ten initially! good luck with it bro! Note that the econovance when working advances to a max of 22 - 24 degrees ! So you should pick a happy medium! Econovance was added to meet emissions.

Do you have a replacement? Try a solenoid first wouldn’t go pulling the econovance parts are near impossible to get! I believe I would disarm the econovance and set the timing to 20 or so and call it a day! Just my thoughts on it!is this a customers truck? If so the afore mentioned fix may not be viable! With out permission!

Do you have a check engine light on? You can try put 12v to the econovance ! this will prove out whether it is mechanical or wiring/ software issue! if the stumble goes away you have a wiring issue! If it does not you have a physical issue with the econovance! broken spring or sealing issue! ect ! Also check the line from the block to the econovance if the line has pluged it won't work either! on older models There are also screens that can plug up in the econovance block remove the plugs and check these if you take the block off be sure to try and save the gasket or get the right gasket for the year there are two different gaskets!

Yup ! Think its a dealer issue here there are lots of parameters to be set even just enabling it (may not) get the result you expect!

Good point and easy to do!

Did they sweep check the turbo? if the turbo is sticking it is a viscous circle as far as soot production ! not enough air more soot! round and round!

The older two valve V8 would make a popping sound when a valve seat came loose and could really be heard when shutting down the engine pop pop pop as it was being shut down! the seat was big enough it would not fall out un like the 4 valve V8 ! That said the six rarely had seat issues 2 or 4 valve! Just sayin!

Think you should check the egr differential pressure sensor and venturie tube ports foe clogging ! just sayin!

You get this working again bro!

Yup !you got the drift perfectly! point is it pays to check for things before jumping to conclusions! This is one of those times! 😎