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Well My Bad I think I was looking at something and posting to another! you obviously have VMAC and joes posted the spec there that is the correct stuff except the HP which may change the timing! and Maybe the Cam key I don't remember! anyway I'm going to stop posting I think ! I'm getting tired of chewing on shoe leather and my foot is getting sore!🙃 Macpro or someone may have some answers here!

air inlet temp on the manifold oil pressure on the pedistal! water temp on the water rail behind there the one hanging is an unused plug!

Yup kinda wondered ! how ever seen em alot worse ! May have to get from a fuel shop someone who dabbles in cummins 5.9 ! Good luck getting that thru Mack! Also did you pull the whole houseing? you might try spinning back the star wheel behind that a turn or two this will allow the boost to overcome it a tad faster and tweek the screw under the small cap a turn that moves the fuel start point in which the boost begins! It will smoke some a tad of gray is good !

Taking the whole fac of is a bit of a pain as it has a tamper proof screw still doable however. . I would pull the 4 screws on the Fac and inspect diaphragm my self ! that way you get to see and understand what makes it tick! 😁 Your Good fuel pressure wise ! (Actual personal experience talking here) anything over 20 under load is fine it will pull ! 15 will still pull ok but not great ! 10 not so much think spec is 20 -35 ! If you take the little cap off the end of the fac dodad there youll find a screw with a jam nut ! Loosen the jam nut turn the screw in (count the turns) crank it in two to three turns see if this changes your situation ! it will lay down some coal but this may tell us a little more about whats going on and will take some of the sluggishness out of your take offs! you can play with this a by tweeking the screw in little bit by little bit to get the desired lack of coal by turning it in 1/2 turn at a time! Taking the whole fac of is a bit of a pain as it has a tamper proof screw still doable however. Also the don't use the timing specs on that page as gospel I beleive its a vmac spec your in the zone at 19 to 24 for your App in my opinion !! Edit I see Joe posted the the spec page sorry my bad ! 19 min ! 🙄

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Does it have the torque limit valve in the mix ! Minted to the rear of the engine or on the fire wall if so by pass it!

Yes it is puff limit on Rob Bosch ! If the diaphragm has a hole on it you won’t likly see it ! Take hose off suck or blow on it if you can blow or suck on it continuously it’s got a hole on it it won’t ever get full fuel! It also may have a torque limit valve on it in the mix!

Check the plug at your VECU for greened out pins Located under the passenger kick panel! Note you get better press if you make your own post!

so I re read the the post the cam was changed I noticed so I believe there was an offset cam key available for these ( Joe correct me if Im wrong) Was the original key used!?

That extra lash is for engine brake ignore this! Is the engine equipped with dyna tard ? all is good! Was the cam replaced? or new cam gear changed?

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Yup me too ! I spent a lot of quality time with that dam thing! once your on to it and figure which drawers everthing are in its a snap to work with ! its a mighty fine unit! Unfortunately these days you need to be a puter programmer as well! The thing with the prolink is your in your out in minutes Not pissing around having to wait for shit to load so you can use it! And it stayed the same for the most part ! They kept moving stuff around in the Vmac soft ware! it was getting more and more frustrating to use!

Holding 20 under load is OK 15 and under is not good under load! shimming is worth a try ! did you check the afc diaphragm for leaks for leaks?

Gray engine???? Check block grounds below the starter! pretty vague post by the way! Rd. Ch !? Year all this helps if you need help!All trucks are not created equal! just sayin!

I totally agree with this check the ECU plug .Also the VECU plug under the dash if it gets wet it can cause issues if the wind shield has been leaking!

If its wired correctly it should have relays in the fuse panel just swap out a like relay in the panel with something else hi beam or some thing see if it changes the situation!

Fuel pressure is too low under load ! Check for a broken spring in the fuel return T or a restriction on the fuel lines or filters!Needs a minimum 20 to get full power!

Replace the relays!

Temove the line to the afc and suck on it if you can suck or blow thru it the diaphragm may have a hole in it! Also check your linkage and stop for going full on full off!

If the the shut down is not accompanied by a malfunction light nothing will be logged! just something to try, reflash the ECU! also just a thought ,I Wonder if something was set in the over speed section of the EECU that you changed ! either way a reflash my correct this!

Maybe a Friday/ payday Trans! Shit happens unfortunately! The important thing is that the warranty will cover it ! The unfortunate thing is that warranty doesn't pay for down time!

Interested to see how this plays out! We one had a truck sit at our shop waiting for drive shafts for a month while someone had to make a decision the the wrong drive shafts got installed at the factory on a tri drive! Took out the rear bearing on the middle diff!

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As mentioned change it out to the air fan they are rubish! Do it once and be done with it! Chances are the new one will be kick right out of the box! Note you will have to have the program changed to suit the air fan!

Tire need to be roughly 3/4 to 1 of an inch below the top frame rail loaded or not! There is a proper gauge for this how ever this is a get by! Experiment with it! There is an 18 mm head bolt that holds the ride valve to the frame loosen and tweak the bracket. And tighten bolt the bags and refill and check the height it’s easier if you on a flat slab and measure from the slab to the frame at the back it’s all doable from the outside!there is usually a hole you can bar through to change the mount bracket height!