D2Denny

Now you guys confuse the hell out of me. I ordered a Wix51233 which is the same as the 236GB311A and Baldwin P706-m that TOPO said. Now this is not the correct filter? I have a Baldwin C750-e (regular 750 element) also. I'll just have to see what is inside when I finally take it apart.

The only oil filter on my G-75 is the Luberfiner 750 mounted horizontally under the Battery Box. I'm getting ready to change the oil and filter soon, but question how to prelube the filter? Mounted vertically you can at least fill it to the cover level and bleed the air out the fitting on the top of the cover when you start it. However, having it mounted horizontally there is no way to prefill it with oil or bleed it. Who has serviced one mounted this way and how is it done?

Sold. Going to Australia.

It's a mystery to me how I got so old so fast. However, at this stage of the game I'm content to adding 1 more year for each additional orbit around the sun. The alternative would be at your maximum age for eternity. All neat gadgets in the previous posts, but I believe a simple extra step will be adequate for me for a few more years.

My G is the hardest truck to get into that I have ever encountered. I concede that my 75 year old ass is not as spry as it once was, but the peg on the hub cap and one step at the rear of the cab make it extremely difficult to climb up into the cab. Exiting is even worse. I'm going to fabricate a "stirrup" style step under the door like on a F Mack or old Freightliner. Does anyone out there have an F that they could take some measurements of this step for me. I need the inside width of the step. How far it protrudes or angles out from the body, and the dimension from the top of the rung of the step to the bottom of the body in the wheel well. On second thought, if you have an old Freightshaker I could use those dimensions too. Thx Dennis

That weekend I'll be at the Ohio Vintage Truck Reunion in Ashland Ohio.

Complete air start system from a 1962 G-75 with a END673 engine. Includes Ingersol starter motor, air tank with aluminum frame brackets, main valve and dash valve. $300. Located in Mansfield, Ohio. Dennis Campbell dencmp@embarqmail.com or 419-545-2706

Thanks to all who have replied with suggestions and shops that can actually repair a spring. Dropped mine off today at Superior Spring in Canton per Larry's suggestion and they will handle it. Didn't see any young folk in the shop just old timers like me. Afraid when they retire their skills and knowledge will go with them and that will be the end of spring forging and repair. Made extra use of the trip to Canton as I stopped by Adelman's and picked up 2 decent 24.5 Dayton rims to mount my new steer tires on.

Didn't get there today but I called and they said they could roll an eye. Off to Canton in the AM.

Steel Nose thanks for your offer but the springs are already loaded into my pickup and its little more than an hour over there. As I'm retired I have plenty of time.

Bob, you are very perceptive, I apologize for my snarky remark. Everyone likes a little ass but no one likes a smart ass. As for the G with the rad out for re-core I replaced the water pump and all the belts and hoses. The generator was replaced with a Delco 22SI alternator, Steer springs out for repair, next is returning the truck to electric start and removing the air start system (it came from the factory with electric start). The 40 plus year old 10X22 tires will be changed out to fresh 11R24.5 rubber. Last significant item will be to fabricate stirrup style steps under the doors ala early Freightliner cab-overs or F Macks. This is the hardest truck to get into and out of as it sits that I have ever encountered.

What!! I didn't have to pull my steer tires and springs to gain access to the driveline mounted park brake? Wish I would have Kown that before starting. Could have saved myself 20 minutes labor.

Thanks to all who offered help or ideas on spring shops. I'm going to jump on Larry's suggestion first thing Monday AM. They are a little more than an hour from me, and can hopefully solve mu problem.

Tractor had a lean to the left, (I hate things that are not plumb or square) so with the front end disassembled to pull the radiator, I decided to pull both springs to have them repaired /re-arched so they matched. Found the spring eye on the left spring broken and flopping around inside the wrapper leaf. Tried 3 HD truck spring shops in Ohio and none could come up with a replacement. Obsolete spring, no longer produced or in stock. Worse, non had operable forges anymore, or the people with the knowledge to actually roll an eye and make a spring. Anybody know of a spring shop in the Ohio area that can actually make a truck spring? Or any other alternatives?

Yes, there are 2 open slots in the face of the drum. Somehow I have to figure out what's missing and find one. That should solve my problem.

Thanks for going out and checking for me. My Mack owner's manual has instructions to adjust the Bendix internal shoe in the un-applied state, shoe to drum clearance to .010.

does your park brake work properly when applied?

I will send it back. You have to realize that most places haven't dealt with this type of equipment in 40 or 50 years and all the people that did this are long gone along with the part catalogs of the era. I'm trying to give them guidance on exactly what I need. I couldn't think of a better place to seek this info than this web site.

The hand / park brake was inoperative on this unit, so I dropped the driveline, removed the drum and shoes with the linings worn and loose from the shoes. I sent them out for relining and when they came back it seemed that the linings that were installed were thinner ( actual lining 9/32" thick). I installed them and couldn't get them to adjust up and grab the drum. In the slack position I can fit a 9/32" drill bit between the linings and the drum. Does any one have a part number or specs on the Bendix park brake shoes? I'm thinking they should have at least 1/2" lining thickness when new.

A couple of contact suggestions to move your mixer Sid Kemp in Chicago, not too far from you has large a fleet of Old Macks. He brought quite a few to Lexington. They are in the construction business so your truck is right up their ally. You might contact them to see if they have any interest or can guide you to someone that would. The National ReadyMix Concrete Association has a web site and publication. Perhaps one of their members would like a historical tribute truck to celebrate their brand. I don't think a non-member can access their web site but perhaps your local ready-mix dealer would be willing to guide you on this.

Looked your truck up. Made from 1960 to 1965. 110 total produced. On the rears the ratios only get worse, 7's, 8's, and 9',s. I was wrong on the engine. Looking at your photos you have the Thermodyne gas engine. Either the EN438 160 HP or the EN464B at 170 HP.

Nice score. Looks like a super truck. My Mack Salesman's book lists a B46S. It has a EN 401 Magnadyne engine (flathead 6) with a SWD 56 bogie. This model aimed at the dumper/mixer market. Looks like the highest ratio for this set up is a 6.45, so even with the .85 ratio in high split with the TRQ 77 (baby quad) you wont have much road speed. I had a B42T with the same engine and trans and it ran super. It was a single axle and I swapped in a higher ratio carrier and was able to run 65 with ease. I too thought about swapping in a diesel but the truck was too nice to alter.

Thanks Glenn. That explains it.

Larry. Making one is my plan B. Already found the proper size and degree aluminum elbow with a bead rolled in one end. but perhaps Mike will have one. Thanks for looking Mike.

Got a question. Have to pull the radiator on the G and have the core replaced. It only lasted 60 years darn... The cab only tilts about 40 degrees so it isn't coming out from above. Does it come out the front after removing the bumper and the grill. Can anybody confirm this? Thx Dennis