mattb73lt

Looking good. Get done what you can as you recover and rebuild.

That's a nice looking R model with a great paint scheme. Tracking it down might be tough, but asking about it here and other platforms might get to someone who may recall it or a company it went to. Facebook has a multitude of pages dedicated to Macks and R models specifically. joining and posting all known information about the truck and company would hit a fairly broad group of people. The ATHS and ATCA sites have pages to where you could ask. The more you ask the more you may get lucky with a lead.

I would think a standard automotive coil would be fine. Either 6 or 12 volt depending on vehicle voltage.

They look great!! Nice to see you making progress after some cataclysmic setbacks!! I think you did well buying the whole parts truck to get what you needed and probably was a lot faster, too!

I agree with the differences. It depends on a lot of things, but I like the complete frame swap option for something I'm going to drive. Being able to fix or service it when not at home is a big plus. I did a lot of upgrades to my truck to try to avoid over the road issues. It's great being able to get what you need at a parts counter.

I ran a 1957 END-673 in my B42 for about 10 years before I had an issue with it. It was set for about 180 HP. I did fine for what I wanted. Made lots of trip s with it, one from Connecticut all the way to Colorado with a Model T on the back. It did fine in all those years. A little slow off the line and it did fall off on the hills. That caused a bit of extra shifting. Adding a turbo to it, something I never did, would bring it to a 205 HP. That would be using an original style turbo, a modern one may provide to much boost. The fuel delivery needs to be adjusted as well for the added boost, that's something a shop needs to do unless you know someone able to help you out. For the cost of messing around with an obsolete 673, I would consider looking for a good running 237, ENDT-675. It'd much more supported in the field. Parts, spin on filters are just two minor things on a larger list of benefits. More HP and much more torque are the main things. When my 673 quit, the price to fix it was the same as a great running takeout 237. The B42 was a completely different truck with it. If you can get it running and on the road with the 673, run it and look for a 237. Parts have become very hard to find for the 673's, so rebuilding and fixing is an issue.

Welcome aboard! You've got the bones of a good project. Talking things out here on a thread, I think is a good idea. Getting other's input on what you want to do is another. There's lots of great knowledge lurking about on these pages. I like this place a lot more than other platforms as it's a smaller community and I think the information given is better and thought out versus mindless input that you're doing it wrong and ruining a classic truck. You're not and it yours to do what you want. I like the Idea of using the original frame and adding your modern pieces to it. That may be an easier route then an entire frame swap regarding mounting the cab, and later, the legalities of registration later. Keep talking and listening, come up with a plan and stick to it. Get it done and tweak it then as you get it on the road. Make good decisions about what you want early in your plan and move forward. Like I said, this is a good place to build your project and keep it on track and your motivation up. I have a thread here that's about NINE(!!) years old on a truck I've owned for over 25 years. I found the thread invaluable for keeping the restoration going and in the direction I wanted. I ended up with the truck I had dreamed about and am now enjoying the fruits of my labors. Along the way I met a lot of good people, some actually in person, I became friends with and received a lot of good advice. I'm no mechanical novice, but mine was a massive project in scope and cost, and the input I received was invaluable.

I wish. It's not mine, I just rent the space to store the trucks. The cars get a freebee as they take up no extra floor space and give me a lot more room for the winter. I'd like to build something, next. Maybe a Barndominium. Some of those designs are pretty cool.

Put some of the toys away until spring today. More room in the driveway for Thanksgiving visitors.

I removed a set of tandems from my B73 when I got it to bring it back to a single axle. It wasn’t too hard to do and I don’t have a lot of heavy equipment. It sounds like you’re going to do it. Since you’re digging that deep it may be worth removing the inner frame support. That way you can get at any rust between the frame rails. It may take some extra cutting and then rewelding, but it could be worth it. I help scrap two B63’s years ago with 58K rears and I can tell you they weigh about 7,000#’s without rims and tires.

An LTL or a B series with the L cab? Good question. Both run the same cab and could run the some of the same engines. The main difference is the front nose clip and then what appeals to you the most. The B front end is a bit shorter, but has integral fenders vs cycle fenders. Most B parts are a lot easier to find than L models. The frame of the B is later so more modern and more plentiful. Some L parts can be extremely hard to find. The cabs themselves were not as durable, so they'll both suffer there, rot and fatigue can reek havoc. Both were somewhat low production, number wise. Survivors in good shape can demand a higher price for either. But, I think the LT series demands more money overall. Considering the B vs L cab, the L is much more comfortable and has better visibility. The B cab had better manufacturing processes and was much more durable, but very cramped. This is a non-issue for your question. I think it will come down to which is more pleasing to your eyes, it's configuration to suit your needs and what is it worth to you? I lean more towards the B series, as I like it's more finished appearance, but it would be a hard choice between the two.

Thank you very much for those words. This project was a lot of work and at times I never thought it would see the road again. This blog was also a lot of help keeping the project on track and the motivation going. I met and became friends with some of the contributors, helped a lot of others out and became an inspiration to others with their projects. Again thank you and everyone else for your words of inspiration!!!

I miss read this, I thought you were looking for the B series ones. Those are plentiful and the same as the M35 and M813 series of military trucks. Maybe try Steele Rubber Products? If nothing there, ask them about other rubber product suppliers? Maybe some other suppliers for REO Trucks. There are many pages on Facebook to post your needs on and someone my have some or someone may make them?. I have a guy in Massachusetts that has the three rubber seals for the L cab with fixed glass and the aluminum frames, and he has the rear window seal, too. He doesn't advertise, but I have his permission to send people his way.

Hopefully that will help him out and let his business survive. Every picture I see of the devastation, the remarkable the damage seems. There's just no easy quick fix to put it all back.

Regarding posting photos, my ne phone(iPhone 16) has some issues along with my desktop. Posting them right away, I get a “Too Large” failure. But if I wait a day or two they’ll drop right in. Still easier with the phone to post pics. Sometimes I’ll do an entry with my desktop then and the pictures with my phone. I still have know idea why, though?