mattb73lt

An LTL or a B series with the L cab? Good question. Both run the same cab and could run the some of the same engines. The main difference is the front nose clip and then what appeals to you the most. The B front end is a bit shorter, but has integral fenders vs cycle fenders. Most B parts are a lot easier to find than L models. The frame of the B is later so more modern and more plentiful. Some L parts can be extremely hard to find. The cabs themselves were not as durable, so they'll both suffer there, rot and fatigue can reek havoc. Both were somewhat low production, number wise. Survivors in good shape can demand a higher price for either. But, I think the LT series demands more money overall. Considering the B vs L cab, the L is much more comfortable and has better visibility. The B cab had better manufacturing processes and was much more durable, but very cramped. This is a non-issue for your question. I think it will come down to which is more pleasing to your eyes, it's configuration to suit your needs and what is it worth to you? I lean more towards the B series, as I like it's more finished appearance, but it would be a hard choice between the two.

Thank you very much for those words. This project was a lot of work and at times I never thought it would see the road again. This blog was also a lot of help keeping the project on track and the motivation going. I met and became friends with some of the contributors, helped a lot of others out and became an inspiration to others with their projects. Again thank you and everyone else for your words of inspiration!!!

I miss read this, I thought you were looking for the B series ones. Those are plentiful and the same as the M35 and M813 series of military trucks. Maybe try Steele Rubber Products? If nothing there, ask them about other rubber product suppliers? Maybe some other suppliers for REO Trucks. There are many pages on Facebook to post your needs on and someone my have some or someone may make them?. I have a guy in Massachusetts that has the three rubber seals for the L cab with fixed glass and the aluminum frames, and he has the rear window seal, too. He doesn't advertise, but I have his permission to send people his way.

Hopefully that will help him out and let his business survive. Every picture I see of the devastation, the remarkable the damage seems. There's just no easy quick fix to put it all back.

Regarding posting photos, my ne phone(iPhone 16) has some issues along with my desktop. Posting them right away, I get a “Too Large” failure. But if I wait a day or two they’ll drop right in. Still easier with the phone to post pics. Sometimes I’ll do an entry with my desktop then and the pictures with my phone. I still have know idea why, though?

That’s going to be a good base to start that restoration, a nice clean frame!!!

There are several manufacturers that make under cab step/tool boxes. Merritt Aluminum products comes to mind. A style of saddle boxes my help get you in the ball park of what your thinking. The Mack LT series had something along the line of what you're talking about in a step/storage box. An internet search for images might help with ideas, too?

I've see n a few Mack Jr's(REO built) at shows, but they are pretty rare and were not big sellers when new. The E series did have various lighter spec versions in a pickup configuration. The cabs were much smaller than the L series and had a one piece push out windshield. The cabs were very close in size and look to the A series that was produced prior to the B series in 1953.

It's looking great. Glad to hear things are slowly improving. Hopefully, you'll have all the basic necessities back before the cold weather sets in!

Maybe just a couple of quick passes to start with the flap discs just to knock the high spots down. A good rasp about 12"s long or an 18" sanding board to work it from there. I usually start my surfaces with 36 grit on my sanding board and work up from there in grit, roughing in with 220 grit before going to other tools and grits. The board will help you develop flat surfaces and using it with two hands you can make quick work of large surfaces. The longer board will get to waves out and give you a flat surface and you can work the rounded areas to by twisting and rolling it around. I'll take a picture of the board I'm talking tomorrow for you.

My dressed NH220 is 2700#'s, that's right out of the manual for it. So, being bigger and turboed, the 335 would be about what others are saying. As for the sandblasting, you have the time and equipment, that should save you some money. I spent about $400 having the donor frame half I spliced onto to the Mack frame blasted. Other money for the cab and frame parts. I don't think I was close to $1400 total, probably $1000 for outside sandblasting. Everything else I ran through my blasting cabinet. Not having a yard or the equipment to do the blasting was the main reason for outsourcing that versus renting/buying the equipment and was a wash cost wise.

Doesn't look too bad. A couple more coats to fill it in, between sanding with a straight board should have it looking real good!!

I can't, but great find!! looks complete and in fairly good shape!!

Geezus, what a mess. Glad you're OK, though. It's going to be a long recovery. Let's hope Florida doesn't take the eye off your area!!

This kills me. These pictures I took when I found it, compared to what it has become. As I told my one of friends recently, "I really polished the shit out of that turd!!"