Challenger

I don't know who makes the axle housings, I'll try and find out tomorrow. Gold bulldogs are still being used.

New Mack rear carriers are built by Meritor. We've changed rear ratio's on some new trucks. They had axle shaft sliding clutch lockers on both left side shafts and 3 5/8 12 point mounting bolts inside the side cover. I don't know any specs, just the visible differences from swapping.

Drain the tank and lines, replace the fuel filters and road test. Should be fine.

First time, not rushing, just kind of cruising, 5-8 hours. No broken studs Experienced 3-4 hours. No broken studs I like to replace all the injectors lines, new ones never to seem to leak for me. If you reuse them, mark them and put them back in the same cylinder. Cover up the EUPs, you dont want to get any dirt in them once you remove the injector lines.

ETECH and ASET exhaust studs bottom out, you just install them. Nice and simple.

They both will have the injector and cup failures, 07-12 could have double idler gear whine/failures (still early to see how the 13s do), plugged up egr coolers. I would say the warranty would be the deal maker or breaker. Warranty, Warranty, Warranty. Volvo D12D egr problems are nothing compared to these.

No, you would have to remove the entire exhaust manifold to replace the gasket. You wouldnt be able to slide the front piece of the manifold back into place with out damaging the new gaskets. Removing the manifold is easy, assuming none of the studs break. The alternator should be on the left side of the engine, maybe you're looking at the ac compressor? Ive never seen the alt on the right side. Replace all the studs too, and remember to seal the bottoms studs with silicone, if you dont they will leak oil. The bottom stud holes have oil passages in them.

Is the malfunction light on? Is there any codes? Is it regening for exessive amount of time or to many times through out the day? This is a shot it the dark but maybe a plugged 7th injector? This could cause incomplete regens and/or excessive regens. Go into vcads and the EADs screen (exhaust aftertreatment screen) and check the 7th injector adapter factor. It will be a little graph with a dot in the middle. If the dot is in range the 7th injector should be ok, if its out of range its bad or plugged. Alot of times the injector tip plugs up so fuel barely goes into the exhaust. You can remove the injector and actually see that its clogged. The 2 5/16" or 8mm head bolts break, so be careful. If this is the problem clean the tip with carb cleaner and a toothbrush, replace the gaskets and bolts, and go back into the EADs screen and "reset the 7th injector adapter factor", then complete a regen. Like I said thats kinda of a shot in the dark. We never remove and clean filters, we replace them when they're cracked but never remove and clean. My guess would be a clogged 7th injector since you are talking about 4 trucks total and the 7th injector does clog. Make sure the flexpipe behind the turbo isnt cracked, this can cause incomplete regens and excessive time regens. It would also smoke while regening but most drivers never notice the smoke..

The guy who put the canister on, is probably the only guy who knows what it is.

5-6 hours if Mack tech, maybe 8-10 for a first timer. To make installing the oil filter housing/ oilcooler easier, you can take 2 exhaust manifold studs, cut them down to an 1" long and cut slots on the tips. Ran them in the bottom holes with a screwdriver, install the gasket and housing.

Sounds like an MP engine, now those are difficult.

No special tools. You can do it.

Yep, 2010 emissions.

If the lightening bolt only comes on with the new sending unit I would try another new one.

What year truck, engine, emissions do you have? Is it an MRU, LEU, MP7, 07 emissions? I remember our parts guys having a problem looking up the CRV and piping on garbage trucks.

You can always call or stop by a dealer and have them look up your rears. Just ask them if it has an air lock powerdivider on the front rear. Front rears always have a powerdivider. Rear rears never have a powerdivider. Mack rears Look at the pinion housing on both rears, notice the front rear housing is larger, thats because the cams and wedges/peanuts for the powerdivider. Powerdividers with air lockout have a cylinder haning off of the side. You have a powerdivider, it just doesnt have air lockout.

Why's the dealer saying the boost pressure is correct if you're saying its low?

Did you have VMAC III software? If so go into service, monitor parameters and click on boxes eecu power and vecu power and check to see if both ecu's have power. If no power check your fuses. Or plug in an another VECU. Use a test vecu or a sister truck vecu. The vecu is located on in front of the passager seat behind the kick panel. Basically behind the metal plate where your feet would rest. They are easy to remove and install. If the truck starts with a different VECU replace the vecu. You can do the samething with the eecu just to make sure its not bad.

Probably has something to do with the clutch pedal. Like stated above the cruise and jake switch operates off of the clutch pedal. The clutch, jake, cruise switch is the gray switch towards the foot pedal. Check the clutch pedal and clutch operation, the problem is there somewhere.

Gear pinning is service bulletin so its done by vin # only. We get an exact number of pins with a list of vins. So no, we dont pin after the repair. I dont know how they make the decision what trucks get pinned, we just see the list. I would think all trucks should get pinned. We've been staking the shit out of the nut and threads on all double idler gears while completing repairs. I replaced a flywheel housing once and tack welded the nut while the cover was off. Maybe it was a good idea, maybe it wasn't. Taking a punch and staking the nut and threads is probably enough. It would be interesting to see what others do or dont do to the new double idler gear.

Well said, excellent post.

I wouldn't consider the engine and emissions systems minor items. Even if you have a complete Mack powertrain you have a Volvo engine, Mack trans, Mack rears built by Meritor and a gold bulldog. So in the end you have a Mack trans. Im not bad mouthing Mack, times have changed. New trucks aren't allowed to puff anymore. The gray engine days are over. The name lives on.

There is a Conical (steel) cup upgrade that consists of 6 conical (steel) cups and 6 conical Injectors. Im assuming you have the copper cups. You got to make sure you have all the updated parts, the copper cups with 2 rings at the top, combustion washer, and the larger injector hold downs. You have to follow the installation instructions to the T. Your truck is an 09 so it couldve been built is 08, so you could have the old/smaller injector holddowns. Some customers still go with the copper cups because they dont like the cost of the Conical upgrade. Either way, following the CURRENT instructions and having the updated parts is very important. .

They both had the same EGR problems. They updated the EGR Diff pressure sensor 3 or 4 times each time correcting a new problem. The venturi tube that the sensor bolts to was clogging from condensation so they added a rhino lining and a cute little jacket on the tube, so far so good. They both get high EGR temp codes from the coolers being clogged. All these updates where done to both the D13 and MP8. The DPF problems are across the board, but it does seem like the Macks break the flexpipe more. I would say I see more problems with Mack but I see more Macks then Volvos. I would think most problems are even across the board.

I hear ya. I only see from my point of view. Everyday I repair the same failures over and over again, it never matters what the hood says, its always the same problems.