Challenger

I wouldnt think its related. Check for any boost leaks as stated already above, Check the aircompressor air intake line that feeds off of the intake manifold. The hoses can blow and the metal line can rub through. A hole in the metal line can be hard to see.

What truck or engine do you have?

That would be for vcads and vmac IV. Vmac III you have to select the model type and then it reads the truck later.

Im not sure if there are differences between dealer and nondealer tech tool but this is how I use mine, Hook into truck, click on tech tool, the computer reads the truck and the vin comes up on the screen, select/high light the vin, go down to the lower right and hit select, this brings the vin up to the top section, go over to menu which is the right upper part of the screen, click menu and then click VCADS pro, click through all the saftey and warning icons, the first page that comes up has fault codes at the top of the list, double click fault codes, then the fault code screen comes up, click on read codes then hit the icon at the top of the screen that looks like the play button on a vcr, it should read all codes. Remember the play button activates the screen, if this button is black it must be hit. I use a dealer techtool.

Since its a 2004 CH or CX 613 I would think the engine is an Aset AC which would have an EGR valve. If its an AC engine you will have a large turbo and just behind it on the exhaust manifold you would see the EGR valve and below the turbo would be the EGR cooler. The Aset AC looks very busy with everything hanging off of it. Take a look and see if you see the EGR valve. It sounds like a generic code reading so it would be hard to say what the problem is.

You'll learn something new everyday working on the red engines, things constantly change. The good thing is, you'll always have a job. I work at a dealer. Good luck.

That's never a good sign. Maybe the gearman was sick that day.

I'll send them tomorrow (thursday).

I don't know if they can be rebuilt, I've always replaced.

If everything is ok and the lights are still on I would try reprogramming Mids, 233, 128, 140, and 144. I dont know if your Tech Tool programs or not but this is what I would do. Mid 233 should be programmed before mid 128 on the 2010 emissions. 2007 emissions has DPF 2010 emissions has DPF SCR and the DEF tank with the blue fill cap. These are the quick visible differences.

I just realized its a 2010, is it 2007 emissions or 2010? If its 2010 emissions the codes should be read using Guided Diagnostics only. Vcads doesnt read 2010 emissions correctly and can send you on the wrong path. 2007 emissions can be read with either Vcads or GD.

I think the low coolant active code could stop it from regening. Some mid 128 codes do effect the regen. Are you sure it completed the regen? What was the soot level before and after the regen? Im going to guess and say the truck didnt complete the regen. Repair the low coolant code, clear codes and try another service regen.

Sounds like you broke a tooth off the pinion gear. The ring and pinion are a match set, I'm confused on what they ordered. If you broke the pinion you should need a ring and pinion. Its possible that someone changed the ratios so they wont match the build spec. The ratio should be stamped on the right front flat area on the rears.

The primer pump shouldn't leak any fuel, if fuel is coming out, air could go in. Thats a good place to start, replace it and try again.

Mack LE's cracked on the front right side lower flange, right behind the bracket for the steering asst drag link. Mack's repair was, stop drill at the end of the crack, grind v into crack, weld, grind smooth, then add a outer glove bracket, drill more body mount bolt holes and install body mount bolts. This glove replaced the steering asst mount (not related to your problem, just adding that). Your idea sound right on. Outer glove should be fine. You could always find a welder to repair the crack.

I hate when new parts fail, so much time ends up getting wasted.

Sounds like you're replaced everything. Was the problem there before all the repairs? Was this the reason for all the repairs? Does this happen while the truck is at idle? Can you hear the air leaking past the air dryer purge valve when its dropping from 125-90? If you can hear leaking past the air dryer purge valve I would consider swapping it out with a known good one. Sometimes new parts can fail off the get go. I end up running in circles because its hard to condemn a new part.

Every oil kit I've put on solves the problem. I drill the Jake housing not replace them. Of course the oil lines are the last resort after troubleshooting, update kit, rod and main bearings, and the high volume oil pump. The Mack spec on the updated kit is .021" Its been that way for 12-13 years. I wouldn't even consider troubleshooting a Jake issue knowing that they were set at .015". I would readjust with the Mack spec and road test.

Is it an active code? Does the truck run? Everytime I see that codes its inactive. If its active, was it active before the starter replacement? Triple check all the wires that were removed for proper routing. Check the engine ground bolt that is below the starter, is it clean and tight? Was that bolt removed while starter was replaced? Where any wires damaged while removing and installing that heavy a$$ starter?

I would double check that coolant 90 degree fitting at the back of the head for core sand like staxx suggested. Just because they changed the lines doesnt mean they checked the fitting for blockage. I dont think there are alot of people who know to check for the core sand blockage.

Whats to much? Every few second? Is this the reason for all the parts being replace? Does it build air to 125ish and continue to purge? What exactly does it do? Check the signal lines coming from the governor. Check routing, check for holes from rubbing.

If you have a fax number I could fax you the info. I have no idea how to attach the torque sequence.

Im not sure why it said .015 that was the clearance before .017. The old style were .017 and the updated style is .021. With the Jakes installed you can tell the difference between the 2 by the length of the stud with the 3/4 nut. The old style were short and the newer ones are longer. New Updated Jake kits clearance is .021". Readjust and retest. You can jump power from the alt to the jake connector with the wire off and hear the solenoid click. With the key on engine off remove the Jake wire from the spacer and tap the little connector stud with power, you should hear the click. Do it to both heads, no click means bad solenoid or solenoid wire. Use the same wire and hold the wire to the connector while the engine is running this should activate the Jake and the engine will studder. Do this one head at a time. Try this before and after you readjust the Jakes to see if you can hear a difference. This is just a quick way to see if there is a difference with out a road test. You'll still need to road test to make sure its all good and doesnt fade away.

You would need the tool that hold the outer cam and pinion from spinning while you run the nut off. Then you would have to press the pinion and outer cam apart without damaging the threads on the pinion. There is a spacer inbetween the the outer cam and pinion. This sets your bearing preload. Then you would have to press the pinion and outer cam back together inside the pinion housing. After this you have to check the preload. If the preload is to tight or to loose you have to break it back down replace the spacer with a bigger one or smaller one to get the preload in spec. Then put the holding tool back in place get a torque multiplier and torque to spec. That would be the harderst part. If you wanted to save some cash you could remove all the parts and pinion housing yourself. Then take the pinion housing to a shop and have them replace the outer cam, nut, outercam bearing and race. They can reassemble it and set the preload. Then take it back and assemble the rest by yourself. The wedges/peanuts have an arrow on them. The arrows point out. The inner cam has a slot on one side. The slot faces towards the front of the rear. Meaning you should put the inner cam in the peanut/wedge cage and not see the slot.

Did you have this problem before the repairs? The old style Jake would've been adjusted to .017" The newer updated adjustment would be .021" Did you adjust them correctly? When you installed the solenoids did you replace the solenoid orings or atleast make sure you put them back? How many miles are on the truck? Whats the oil pressure while driving and attempting to use the Jake? Assuming you did everything correctly it could be low oil pressure. Within spec and optimal are 2 different things. If everything is correct you could consider replacing your rod and main bearings and replacing the oil pump with a high volume oil pump. There is also an external oil line kit you can buy that runs oil from the oil filter housing to the Jake Housings.