h67st

I got my treadle valve back today. I couldn't find one reman or new but I found Precision Rebuilders in Missouri will rebuild them for $187.00. The nice thing is they had it back to me in one week, so many other things I've had done take months to get back. It's a Bendix type D or D-1 (not sure which), part number is 223192.

If you're getting fuel out of the lines when you pump the hand primer, then it's not a fuel issue.

That 10qk332a is the same insulator that went on the front of my H67 leaf springs. PAI makes them also, $40 each.

I looked on the Loctite page and they recommend using 660, it's supposedly made for building up worn bores. Since it's a hobby truck hopefully that will work. I'm going to have to measure the spread like Rob said.

I'm with you, seems like with all the stress between engine and transmission an iron housing would be best.

Some of my yokes have a little slop where the cap goes in, I'm looking for ways to tighten them up. What about using bearing mount on them when I put them together? Any other ideas for a fix?

Before you remove the dowel pins, clean everything and install dry like Vmac3 says. Check the runout, if it's within spec you're good. If not, follow Vmac3's instructions. I had a bar made at a machine shop to bolt to the crank that held my drill good and square.

According to Freightliner, the Powerliner came out in 1973.

The check valves are in the lift pump; if you replaced the whole pump that would fix them. My hand primer pump was bad, causing loss of prime but maybe you already replaced it. I found my leak by removing the lines at the fuel tank, plugging them off, and putting 10 psi air into them...fuel started seeping out of the primer so that showed where the problem was.

I found my front driveshaft had eaten a u-joint at some point before I got the truck and they put a new joint in even though the bore was trashed. The driveshaft shop found a new yoke, replaced the tube, and balanced it, all for about $250 so not too bad. The 1710 u-joints were $55 each.

I'm with you on the looks of the 10:00-20, I think the vintage look is cool. The lock rings and tubes are a hassle, but I'm still going to run them on my truck. I agree with others that radial steers/bias drives should be no problem.

I'd hate to be in that thing in a wreck!!

I put the cab on the other day, here's a video of the process.

I had new bushings pressed into the front spring hangers for the cab pivot bar, of course the hangers didn't come out exactly square with each other once I bolted them on. I bought this handy sanding drum for my drill from McMaster Carr for $4.00, it made short work of ovalling the holes to get the bar to fit. The bar is 1" diameter, but the center tube is 1-1/8" ID so I knew there'd be much rattling going on there. I looked around for something to fill up the space, an old plastic tailpiece from a kitchen sink drain filled the bill. I slotted it on my table saw to make it small enough, and it's springy enough to hold itself in place while I install the bar. Here's the bar and cab brackets all installed.

Unusual looking truck on ebay. Needs lots of work. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1947-FWD-FIRE-TRUCK/284260353466?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&autorefresh=true

Those panels look great! That's a really nice red, looks almost candy apple.

That is an unusual scheme, no idea why they'd do that.

Thank you! Yeah, I was actually surprised to find this shop...a couple of people I know recommended them. It's Purrformance Diesel in Fredericktown Ohio.

Thanks! It's Axalta 77968 which is their match for classic Mack 400 red. I like it too!

I meant to post these photos earlier...I had the pump and injectors rebuilt at a local shop, they charged $1,100 to rebuild the pump and $500 for the injectors. Looks like they paid a lot of attention to detail and the truck seems to run well (that is, without a load on it). I painted a bunch of parts. Some of those parts installed.

I think you're right about the marketing strategies--GMC advertises more of a "professional" angle, Chevy more like a personal truck. Pontiac aimed more toward comfort, Chevy the more basic cars. But as you say, same vehicle, different image.

I read online a while back that a guy drove a 673 duplex back in the day, he said you needed all 10 gears because a toothpick would pull the thing down!

I looked at my parts trucks, one of them had a pulley with a lot less wear. The belts sit up in the top of the grooves and vibrate less now. The part number on it is 302GC2187A; they are still available from PAI.